drag set up for my aspen

kwobbler

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ok so now that work is shut down because of virus im thinking about working on my ole girl. i would like some advice about set up .. 78 r/t -383bb -727- disconnected sway bars- 6cly torsion bars going to make frame connectors. was thing about going to bigger struts that tie the fender to fire-wall too. am i missing anything
 

BudW

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Sway bars (front or rear) are useless for a drag car. They are added extra weight and front bar can delay weight transfer from front to rear.

A front sway bar are pretty much a requirement for a street car. Most FMJ's came from factory without a rear sway bar – but if a person it planning on taking a car to the twisties, then a big front and rear bar added helps out.
If you happen to have a rear sway bar and car will be a dedicated for drag racing, then remove the rear bar!
Removing the front bar would also be advisable – unless you will be driving car too/from track (then that would be personal preference).

On the front sway bars, There were only three used: normal, HD and police. The police front bar was always used with a rear sway bar.
I'm not sure what the difference is between the normal or HD bar is – and I've worked with hundreds of 'em.

There was only one torsion bar used for all FMJ's. There was a difference on bushing hardness used – but the torsion bars were all the same from '76 to '89.
TTI has came out with a nice torsion bar – but you will not want them for a drag only car (plus they are $$$).
I hope this helps
BudW

Edit: (to retract what I said, 15 months earlier).
 
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Locomotion

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What do you have for rear suspension? Things get difficult there because of the unique spring lengths, the ISO pad mounts and shocks. Most people convert to the standard Mopar spring mounts to use SS springs & a extended front mount. That opens up a wide drag shock selection also. The short front shocks also limits selection. Not sure how well aftermarket HD springs would work in a drag racing application. Perhaps someone can make the correct length, but for the older Mopar spring pad/shock mount set-up.

If you can at least partially weld the frame connectors into the floor, it will strenthen the overall chassis. It will also tuck them further up under the car. If used, tie the roll bar into it with extra bars behind the seats.

Solid K-frame mounts are also recommended.
 

Oldiron440

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The only difference in my Fbody rear suspension and chassis is the rear spring hangers are tied to the role cage just because of there length.
The SS springs are going to be replaced with a Calvert Suspension split monoleaf and Caltracks etc..
 

kwobbler

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What do you have for rear suspension? Things get difficult there because of the unique spring lengths, the ISO pad mounts and shocks. Most people convert to the standard Mopar spring mounts to use SS springs & a extended front mount. That opens up a wide drag shock selection also. The short front shocks also limits selection. Not sure how well aftermarket HD springs would work in a drag racing application. Perhaps someone can make the correct length, but for the older Mopar spring pad/shock mount set-up.

If you can at least partially weld the frame connectors into the floor, it will strenthen the overall chassis. It will also tuck them further up under the car. If used, tie the roll bar into it with extra bars behind the seats.

Solid K-frame mounts are also recommended.
actually i have clamped the leaf springs together & pinion snubber of coarse im going to put an 8 3/4 in it thats when im going to change & relocate springs & upgrade rear susp. for now im looking for the low buck old school changes & improvements so thanks for the imput.
 

kwobbler

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Sway bars (front or rear) are useless for a drag car. They are added extra weight and front bar can delay weight transfer from front to rear.

A front sway bar are pretty much a requirement for a street car. Most FMJ's came from factory without a rear sway bar – but if a person it planning on taking a car to the twisties, then a big front and rear bar added helps out.
If you happen to have a rear sway bar and car will be a dedicated for drag racing, then remove the rear bar!
Removing the front bar would also be advisable – unless you will be driving car too/from track (then that would be personal preference).

On the front sway bars, There were only three used: normal, HD and police. The police front bar was always used with a rear sway bar.
I'm not sure what the difference is between the normal or HD bar is – and I've worked with hundreds of 'em.

There was only one torsion bar used for all FMJ's. There was a difference on bushing hardness used – but the torsion bars were all the same from '76 to '89.
TTI has came out with a nice torsion bar – but you will not want them for a drag only car (plus they are $$$).
I hope this helps
BudW
did not know that i was told they were different i never paid attention either when i swapped them out dohhhhh!!!!
 

Oldiron440

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It you have a rear seat bar on the car already leave it on, this helps especially if you're using stock springs. This helps keep the RT rear of the car from squatting putting more load on the rt rear tire.
This is from the bag of cheap tricks.
 

Oldiron440

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My above post should say leave the rear sway bar on the car...
A sway bar is a large part of a drag car rear suspension. New aftermarket bars are available these help the front come up level, so Bud please quit saying saw bars on a dragcar are useless because it's not true.
 

BudW

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Okay. Point taken.
Most FMJ's didn't come with a rear sway bar so I assumed most cars setup for drag racing wouldn't have one either (assumed being the key word here). I can see how a rear sway bar can be of more help than the front one is (for drag racing) for the front one is a counterproductive for this activity - but I will step aside (and post deleted to prevent any further disagreement).
BudW
 

Oldiron440

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From the cheap tricks bag, the first years racing the Volare I cut the spring straps off the rear of the springs and clamped the front. I also fabricated traction bars that used the lower spring/shock mount, the bars were long enough to hit the front spring eye. With only 500 hp it would pull the front wheels a foot or more.
You can use 70s rear 2wd truck shocks, they are two inches longer think of them as a 50 50 drag shocks.
The biggest problem with the stock springs is the front spring eye is oval allowing for and aft movement.
Another thing is you can use the stock main leaf and put SS spring pack under it.
 

kwobbler

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From the cheap tricks bag, the first years racing the Volare I cut the spring straps off the rear of the springs and clamped the front. I also fabricated traction bars that used the lower spring/shock mount, the bars were long enough to hit the front spring eye. With only 500 hp it would pull the front wheels a foot or more.
You can use 70s rear 2wd truck shocks, they are two inches longer think of them as a 50 50 drag shocks.
The biggest problem with the stock springs is the front spring eye is oval allowing for and aft movement.
Another thing is you can use the stock main leaf and put SS spring pack under it.
wow thank you for the tips. i didnt even pay attention to the front spring eye thanks. thats about the power level it will be at till i get it sorted out then my wife wants us to put the juice to lol one thing at a time i told her.
 
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