Filling tank with gas

[slant6billy]

Certain gas nozzles are a real pain. It ate the paint off when I cleaned it with the water at the pump. turn out to have something in it

 

[Aspen500]

That's one of the worst parts of having a side filler with just a cap (vs side fill with a fuel door), the chance of gas spilling down the 1/4 panel if you pull the trigger too much. I always try to listen and judge when it's getting full and release the trigger before the auto shut off. Times I've had the auto shut off kick in, are when gas spit out down the side of the car.

 

[BudW]

I always try to listen and judge when it's getting full and release the trigger before the auto shut off.

I agree – but Not so much as for damage, but for wasted money.


On a different note, gasoline and diesel shouldn’t affect the paint originally used on our cars. I can’t comment about Ethanol damaging paint (not investigated it) – but for the most of us, you want to avoid using Ethanol to begin with.
Also, I can’t comment on non-OE paint types (no experience there, either).

Now some plastics used on our cars (mainly trim, spoilers/ground effects, M/J-body fuel door fillers, etc.) might be affected from gasoline – but not seen it happen . . . yet.

I suspect there was an additive in Billy’s fuel that wasn’t supposed to be there, maybe (spiked fuel?).
BudW

 

[Oldiron440]

Gasoline has always had a negative impact on automotive aftermarket paint, Imron was the best for resilience to gasoline. Even under certain conditions it would wrinkle.

 

[Aspen500]

The times I've accidentally gotten gas down the side of the car, or truck, it's never done one iota of damage and both are not original paint anymore. The Aspen has clear that used activator and the Dakota is one step but it's also activated and supplied air respirator mandatory paints (isocyanurates, nasty) Of course, I clean it off as soon as possible and then rewax that area. Well, rewax on the Aspen and Mustang, the Dakota,,,,,,,,,,maybe yes, maybe no these days. At one time, it would be rewaxed immediately.

 

[GreenMachine'80]

BudW, that it an awesome detailed troubleshooting checklist! Will be working on this weekend!

 

[AJ/FormS]

I had the same problem. For me, the lowest part of that 3/16 ventline running from the tank to the canister, had rusted shut from the inside. Externally the line looked fine. I just cut the plugged part out and spliced a bigger pipe in there. That was in the 90s and it's still working.
It was an easy find; I just crushed the pipe with a pliers, where I suspected the plug. When I got to the not-plugged part, the pipe crushed different and easier. Badaboom! Water always collects in the lowest spot.

 

[BudW]

It was an easy find; I just crushed the pipe with a pliers, where I suspected the plug.

I prefer a small flat screwdriver (or icepick) to push with, for it is less destructive. Once it finds rust, it will poke a hole – but the damage is already done at that point. An icepick or small screwdriver will not damage the metal tubing (. . . unless a hammer was used).
Generally if it looks rusty on outside, there is also a decent chance it is also be rusty on the inside - which is where i start poking at.
BudW

 

[XfbodyX]

In reading this I thought id look at the bag for a charcoal can lower filter as most the time when they pop up they want to rape folks at $20 plus shipping.

Just nailed this mopar one for about 7.50 shipped and it says hes got 5 in the listing, well 4 now at best. If I were a flipper id of bought them all.

NOS Mopar 1972-1981 Plymouth Dodge Chrysler Charcoal Cannister Vapor Filter | eBay

If one needs one they might message him.

My old one was, well really old.

Not a dig one the owners nice car, but the missing paint from fuel is simply low end paint used. High end paint will hold up to nearly most anything including leaded fuels.

 

[greymouser7]

Just checking to see if anyone else is having the same problem when refueling. Car is an 80 RR. When I first start to refuel, I have to keep moving and turning the nozzle to get it to take fuel without kicking off. I wind up holding it turned to about 4 o'clock and as slow as the pump will allow. I don't dare try to use the little lever lock or let go of the handle. Also when the tank finally gets full, with the flow so slow, it is hard to tell when it is close to full and I usually wind up with fuel running down the side of the car. Could I have some type of vent issue? Any suggestions welcome.

I just moved across the country. This phenomenon with the gas pump nozzle/flow happened constantly with the budget rental truck, a diesel ford pickup as well but not with my rear fuel cap road runner.

 

[volare 1977]

Those filters at one time were pkg quantity 5 to a white envelope. The bag doesn`t look mopar though but maybe they started packing them separate in the later years dunno. I have some around here somewhere.

 

[Aspen500]

Says listing has ended.
I wonder if those are actually aftermarket(?) Reason I say that is the bag says "APPROVED PARTS". Guess it doesn't really matter, just a thought.

They're still available aftermarket from NAPA, Carquest, Rock Auto, etc

 

[Charles Thompson]

I will have to remember the points made here. It has been far too long since I have been in a classic Mopar. I had a 64 Valiant that I had to watch closely as the gas nozzle would not click off before over flowing. It ruined the paint on the car one day when the cap apparently failed to seal the neck.

 

[Aspen500]

My dad has a '62 Valiant and to put gas in that, you had to go 1/4 throttle on the nozzle. Filler tube is almost horizontal from the 1/4 panel to the tank. What were they thinking? Sadly, it's not much more than MAYBE a parts car now (BADLY rotted).