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You can still get them as well as torque boxes from USCT.
I saw them for the F body. Just didn't see it differentiated between 2 door and 4 door. Also, would that work on an M?
The ART stuff was crap that looked like a five year old got a hold of a plasma torch. You can make a set of ties out of $50 worth of steel from a steel supply. At the time I had mine installed I didn't have a welder or skill enough to do my own so I paid a local racer to do mine. I think it cost me $350 and he did everything.
That's where I'm at. I dont know how to weld, but it's on the short list of things to learn. I know enough people who are willing to teach me, just need to be able to dedicate the time to learn before buying equipment.
I may just get ahold of one of the people I know who weld and ask what they'd charge. I saw options for other body styles of bolt on (which supposedly help a bit, but not as much as welded) but I couldnt cheap out and find a set of those for the FMJ's
Anybody have any experience with Bilsteins?
I have them on mine. Nice shocks. Stupid expensive. I recommended them in another thread recently, but they've doubled in price at Firm Feel since I bought mine. Someone posted a manufacturer that can do custom, adjustable shocks for less money. I forget who. Maybe they'll chime in.
PST has Viking shocks, both single and double adjustable. They are expensive.
Firm Feel is having problems getting the Bilsteins for our cars and the cost is getting nuts.
KYB Excel-G have better reviews than the gas-a-just models.
Monroe OESpectrum are a good choice for most cars. Their Formula series shocks were the best for our cars when they were still available.
Koni has had shocks available at one time, and QA-1 has done short runs on special order
I believe the KYB Excel-G are more in line with Monroe OESpectrum (from what I can gather).
I considered Bilstein's but when I saw the price it made my decision easy, lol. IIRC they only can get them for one end of the car anyways (front or rear, forget which).
I got a Firm Feel order about a month ago. If you get the rear ISO delete shock plates from them, it allows you to use a B-Body rear Bilstein shock. They don’t have for the front. I’m just using OE Spectrum Monroe for the front.
You might also search over on FABO as I have seen many threads were mainly Duster guys were giving opinions.
Firm Feel lists the Bilsteins, at $400 for the fronts, only.
PST has the single adjustable Vikings at $600 for the set of 4
I had a harder time compressing the KYB gas adjust shocks for my, Fifth Ave than I do compressing the factory front socks for a, Freightliner, Cascadia class 8 truck. I don’t really mind them on the front but, they’re dangerous on the rear. My whole rear end hops to the side if I hit an expansion crack on a sweeping overpass. I’m leaning towards the Viking single adjust for the next set when I’m ready to install the 8.25” rear end
I'm guessing that is for both fronts?
Shock availability for rear shocks increase many-fold when you perform an ISO delete in rear (with using the older shock plates). 1960-1981 A, B, C and R body.
Even another reason to kick those ISO’s to the curb. Also, you don't have to worry about those studs rusting tight, either.
I used a jack to compress the kyb fronts to get them out. The Monroes went back in by hand. The kyb`s were like new but I gave them away.
I had the same thing with the Gas Adjust's Camtron. If you hit an expansion joint in a sweeping curve, hop-skip-jump. Not a good feeling. The front end had similar problems. The Monroe's got rid of all that, along with the bone jarring, teeth rattling ride quality.
The 4-door cars (F and M-body) are a couple inches longer (not sure exact measurement) than 2-door cars (FMJ) are.
I have a set of ART subframe connectors for a 4-door. Frame connectors post #20, has better pictures of his parts (member 80 Aspen RT). This is his picture of his subframe connectors – which look exactly like mine. I also purchased their torque box set as well. All six of my pieces are still on shelf in my garage (not ready to tackle that concern, just yet).
In my opinion, for the cost of items, I just assume getting metal and making my own to get welded in. They will not look near as nice but will get the job done.
I bought the ART subframe caps and,,,,,,,unimpressed. I ended up spending more time rebuilding them than it would have taken to start from scratch. Only reason I got them is to "save time". That plan failed miserably. I agree, looked like a 6 year old cut them out with a torch, and it was his first time using a torch, then a 5 year old welding for the first time put them together. Horrible and a waste of money (IMO)
BudW, IIRC 2 door's are 108" and 4 door/wagon are 112" for wheelbase.
The J body coupes are built on the F/M 4 door chassis, and have the same wheelbase as the F/M 4 doors (about 4" longer than the F/M 3 doors).
Now that I see sub-frame connectors, and US Car tool has em, probably a good idea to install them before I send my Aspen for front frame pulling. Ya, I’m still chasing this frame pulling issue before stuff can be legal and on the road. Been away working lots. Checking on availability of front shocks too.