gen 3 hemi swap in a j body?

efriedrich · Apr 25, 2015

Captain Caravelle said:
I absolutely want to see this build go down.

x2, are you using a Nag1 and what rearend, cheetah?

Joe12459 · Apr 25, 2015

Mechanically, it's pretty much done. Just a lot of interior and wiring to go. I used NAG1 and a B body 8 3/4 rear with 489 case and 3.23 sure grip. I had a driveshaft made with a CV joint that attaches directly to the NAG1 flange.

Joe12459 · Apr 25, 2015

I'll be posting more pics soon.

Jack Meoff · Apr 25, 2015

Awesome!
More pics!!

greymouser7 · Apr 25, 2015

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/forumdisplay.php?f=83

lots of threads of experience

Joe12459 · Apr 26, 2015

greymouser7 said:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/forumdisplay.php?f=83

lots of threads of experience

Lots of good info there. Thanks!

Joe12459 · Apr 26, 2015

A few more before pics. Lots of wiring left, but it all works.

Joe12459 · Apr 26, 2015

Engine bay, mostly finished. Just needs detailing.

Jack Meoff · Apr 26, 2015

Wow!!!!

Mcfly68 · Apr 26, 2015

half the concerns are irrelevant with an FMJ..the K member and suspension are fully self contained, there is no suspension loads on the body directly like an A, B or E when using the alterkation front end. The only change I would make is to use actual tierod ends, in a street application are minimally stronger design over heim ends in non linear loading ( stronger taper fit studs into the knuckle over a bolt being the major difference). Honestly though not a major concern. I went a different way with mine, using a stock v8 crossmember, that has created a lot of issues to overcome. That and a completely different and smaller engine bay than even an A body. With the stock K member there is no solution for exhaust other than custom headers, especially keeping the power steering. Even any of the solutions for the other body styles dont work due to the different engine compartments. ( even the easy passenger side has no off the self or factory solutions, and yes I have tried them all..I have 4 sets of headers and manifolds to prove it...lol). The custom headers are the biggest obstacle. The brake booster clearance is easy to overcome..I just went with a hydroboost set up ( could have gone manual brake, but no thanks I have 4 wheel disks or could have used a smaller booster. With the stock K member there is only about 1/2" of room to move the engine forward. The hemi power steering pump has more than enough pressure to run the brakes and steering. So with a pressure reducer for the steering side Hydro boost was the solution I felt worked best for me). The only other obstacle was the exhaust and steering staft, but all kinds of solutions in the aftermarket to get rid of the rag joint that occupies just enough room to make things difficult. In a FMJ it is a limited support swap. very little in the aftermarket available and it isnt popular enough for the aftermarket to start making parts ( the TTI mounts dont work and they arent interested in making them work), next to no info available....I know of 3 people who have got one in, including me. It isnt terribly difficult, but fab skills and above average mechanical skills are highly recommended...lol. I would like to see the alterkation setup for a fmj if you have a picture of that to see how much room it actually gives you with out that steering box and how much further forward it places the motor if any ( by the looks in your engine pics, it seems to be a good 1" or more than with the stock k member)

Joe12459 · Apr 26, 2015

Mcfly68 said:
half the concerns are irrelevant with an FMJ..the K member and suspension are fully self contained, there is no suspension loads on the body directly like an A, B or E when using the alterkation front end. The only change I would make is to use actual tierod ends, in a street application are minimally stronger design over heim ends in non linear loading ( stronger taper fit studs into the knuckle over a bolt being the major difference). Honestly though not a major concern. I went a different way with mine, using a stock v8 crossmember, that has created a lot of issues to overcome. That and a completely different and smaller engine bay than even an A body. With the stock K member there is no solution for exhaust other than custom headers, especially keeping the power steering. Even any of the solutions for the other body styles dont work due to the different engine compartments. ( even the easy passenger side has no off the self or factory solutions, and yes I have tried them all..I have 4 sets of headers and manifolds to prove it...lol). The custom headers are the biggest obstacle. The brake booster clearance is easy to overcome..I just went with a hydroboost set up ( could have gone manual brake, but no thanks I have 4 wheel disks or could have used a smaller booster. With the stock K member there is only about 1/2" of room to move the engine forward. The hemi power steering pump has more than enough pressure to run the brakes and steering. So with a pressure reducer for the steering side Hydro boost was the solution I felt worked best for me). The only other obstacle was the exhaust and steering staft, but all kinds of solutions in the aftermarket to get rid of the rag joint that occupies just enough room to make things difficult. In a FMJ it is a limited support swap. very little in the aftermarket available and it isnt popular enough for the aftermarket to start making parts ( the TTI mounts dont work and they arent interested in making them work), next to no info available....I know of 3 people who have got one in, including me. It isnt terribly difficult, but fab skills and above average mechanical skills are highly recommended...lol. I would like to see the alterkation setup for a fmj if you have a picture of that to see how much room it actually gives you with out that steering box and how much further forward it places the motor if any ( by the looks in your engine pics, it seems to be a good 1" or more than with the stock k member)

Your build sounds great! Please post some pics!
I will be back in the garage on Wednesday. I'll put the car on the lift and take lots of suspension pics. The AlterKtion made it very easy to install the engine, with lots of room for everything. It doesn't necessarily move the engine forward by design. I ordered mine without the mounts welded in, because I used the NAG1 trans, and didn't want to cut up the tunnel, so I mounted the engine about 3 inches forwarded, and didn't have to cut anything. Everything fits with no problems.

Monkeyed · Apr 27, 2015

Joe12459 said:
View attachment 10059 View attachment 10060
Engine bay, mostly finished. Just needs detailing.

Awesome work!!! Looks like it belongs there!

That is a lot of wire, I'm surprised how much runs to the back, I guess I figured you'd only need the stuff that can tuck under the dash. If I was doing that build, I'd be pulling what's left of my hair out trying to find ways to conceal that all without getting bulges in the carpeting.. I'd probably end up running it all underneath the car and drilling holes :icon_scratch: :laughing5: