Got some work ahead of me.....

[BudW]

The Left valve cover has the PCV hole (only) in the center – which you want to keep.

The Right valve cover has the breather hole in center and the (screw in) oil fill cap towards the front (which is not easy to fill if you have A/C. There shouldn’t be any other holes present.

B-vans has a pop in oil fill tube in front (going to front of van) and a screw in oil fill cap (I think) in rear – which is what I think you might have.

You might be fine with what you have – just need better pictures, first.
BudW

 

[Rustyroger]

Some pictures of the engine to help identification;

the carb from the passengers side.

Vacuum port on the left front of the inlet manifold.

A 3 connector sensor on the rear....

Vacuum port behind the carb.

The drivers side exhaust downpipe with resonator.

The passenger side downpipe where it joins the downpipe from the drivers side.
There is no catalytic converter anymore btw.

Roger.

 

[Rustyroger]

Some more pics...

The icu.
.

The harmonic balancer.

the temperature sender, rh front of the manifold

The carb from left rear.

Hope this helps.

Roger.

 

[BudW]

The carburetor is a Holley 2280 (a 6280 is the computer controlled version of same carburetor, which you don’t have), which is a decent unit. I prefer the Carter BBD – but this one will work – with one possible exception.
I don’t see the port going to the vacuum advance, which you will need.


You do not appear to have all of the parts for the EGR to work correctly. In this case I might recommend removing most of the EGR components (or leave them in place but disconnected).
Note: if this car was built to Canadian specs, then EGR system might be correct. It is not, for US cars, though.

Pic 16

Orange circle goes to the charcoal canister – It can be left open if you like but I personally think you will get slightly better mileage with charcoal canister operational (less fuel vapor loss).

Blue circles. One goes to brake booster and other to PCV valve. The PCV hose is an odd size (11/32” or 8.73mm). A 3/8” hose is too big and 5/16” is too small. A 3/8” with a small hose clamp(s) will work – but looks tacky.

I think there is a port marked with red circle – but can’t tell for sure. That port location is the one going to disturber – on the Carter BBD.
Most 2280 carburetors did not use vacuum advance – so it is possible you do not have that port.

Gray circle is hose going to the Lean Burn computer (ESC) and can be plugged.

Pic 17

Blue circle is the Coolant Switch. It turns off the EGR Valve operation when engine is cold.

Black X – EGR Valve

I suspect the carburetor port for other end of EGR hose is located at white circle – but might be mistaken.

The red circle is throttle return spring and spring bracket. There is a bracket in that area for throttle return spring to attach to. Also, it does not appear to have the correct throttle return spring on it. This might not matter – but I am picky about those things. After driving cars that throttle will not close – causes underwear to get lumpy real quick (if not accidents and/or death).

Pic 18

Red circle is port to air cleaner temp switch/hot air door in snorkel.

Blue circle is intake air temperature sensor. This part can be removed and pope plug installed if not using Lean Burn (ESC) – if wanted.

Pic 21
Left side exhaust pre-cat with transmission cooler lines right on top of it.

Pic 22
Right side exhaust pre-cat. I would recommend having a new exhaust Y pipe made and toss both pre-cats to the curb. It will make engine reinstallation SO MUCH easier, as well as a reduction of under hood heat and reduced exhaust backpressure.

A vacuum diagram for '86 Canadian M-body - which might help you.

 

[Rustyroger]

Thanks again Bud for your comprehensive answers.
The expansion plugs finally arrived today, last piece of the jigsaw before I can start putting the engine back in.
The exhaust will most likely be left alone or simply have the resonator boxes taken out.
A custom fabricated exhaust system is a future job.
What would you recommend, a Y piece and single system, or a dual system?.

Roger.

 

[BudW]

If staying with a 2-bbl, I would stay with single exhaust (without the pre-cats).

The 2-bbl carburetor will only flow about 230 CFM vs. 500-750 CFM for a 4-bbl.

1-3/4” (45mm) single exhaust flows about 240 CFM and probably would be perfect for a single exhaust system.
1-7/8” (47.5 mm) (flows about 290 CFM) single exhaust would be the largest I would go – if you retain the 2-bbl.

Anything larger than 1-7/8” exhaust for a 318 2-bbl is overkill (IMO)

I have some pictures of Y-pipes on this tread The "Canadian Y-pipe"
BudW

 

[Rustyroger]

The Y pipe looks like a good idea. If I can't source one at a sensible price then I shall make one. Might not look neat though, I'm aware of my limitations.

Roger.

 

[Rustyroger]

Just a quick question; what is the correct engine paint color for the 318 in my 1984 Fifth avenue?. How about the inlet manifold?. The exhaust manifolds are having a coat of vht black.
The expansion plugs are out and I will be flushing out the block today. While it's out a fresh coat of paint won't go amiss.

Roger.

 

[lowbudget]

Black here is the Mopar paint number Engines: Mopar Engine Colors Through The Years

 

[BudW]

I don't care much for the Chrysler black engine paint (which is my opinion, only).

The Chrysler blue looks SO MUCH better, for an engine – with the older red or orange being close (but out of place on a '84).

That said, black is correct for '84.

Its your car. Paint it what ever you like – for you are the one who is going to live with it.

The factory painted the engine with exhaust (and intake) manifolds in place. That doesn't allow much paint on engine under exhaust manifolds.
The paint on exhaust manifolds burn off in a short time.

I like to give an extra layer of paint at the gasket surfaces (after together) – to give the gasket an extra layer to prevent leaks (if that makes any sense).
BudW

 

[Rustyroger]

Well.... I know black is the correct color, but I fancied blue. My wife had some bizarre notion red would look nice which my buddies and me had a laugh over.
So red it is then.

The exhaust manifold mating surfaces will be cleaned, then the manifolds will go on with a smear of exhaust assembly paste.

The downpipes are coming off to have the cats cut out and tube in their place. I can't find anyone who has a Canadian Y pipe who will ship to the UK.

Roger.

 

[lowbudget]

Try Ice Cold for the Y pipe he grabbed a bunch of them. Selling Walker 40430 Y Pipes I think it would be cheaper to have an exhaust shop make one than shipping it across the pond.

 

[Rustyroger]

I got in touch with Ice Cold, the first quote he got for shipping was $Can1500. I could fly over and pick them up myself for less.
He is seeing if he can get a more sensible quote, meanwhile I have found a local welder/fabricator who is cutting out the cats for me.

Roger.

 

[Rustyroger]

The Y pipe ready to install.

And a new starter motor I found at a car show.

Back to work on the car on Easter Sunday.

Roger.

 

[BudW]

There are various areas in USA that community’s do not use power tools, buttons on clothes (they use straight pins) or even powered vehicles (horse drawn (or in some areas bicycle) only).

The no red bar in the middle means they are allowed, and to watch out for them.

Neat areas to visit, but not sure I would want to live in one of those community’s.
(One item: sense I’m married, I would be allowed to keep my beard . . .)
BudW

 

[BudW]

Y pipe looks like it should work.

I love those mini starters.

 

[Rustyroger]

I haven't quit the forum, I managed to run myself over with my own car a month ago, which stopped all progress.
However I'm walking again and this week got back in the garage.
The engine runs smoothly, no exhaust leaks, new radiator and hoses helping keep everything cool'.
On the other hand the new thermostat housing leaks, that will have to be dealt with.
Next is fitting a transmission cooler, fixing some lights and the horn, then it should be fit to take for its mot test, a compulsory safety inspection for all cars over 3 years old in the UK.
The windshield surround trim need refitting, the rear passenger door won't open, and the drivers seat won't move.
I won't be hurrying, a couple of hours at a time is all I can manage most days.
Here's a tip foy everyone; Don't get old, and don't try to catch a runaway car.

Roger.

 

[BudW]

I can’t say I’ve been driven over . . . yet, but I do understand.

About 25 years ago, I drove my ’87 Dodge Daytona Shelby, w/T-tops about 1,700 miles (2,700km) to see the in-laws.

The in-laws live on a fairly steep and longer than usual driveway, with a wooden fence on both sides of driveway.

We parked in driveway, placed car in gear (manual transmission) and set parking brake (like I always do). My foot accidently popped the parking brake release when I got out of car (and at that point my car door was locked once car door was shut). Wife’s purse strap accidently popped the transmission out of gear, just after she got out of car, but before her car door closed.

I realized what happened, I started to run downhill - while getting car keys out of my pocket. Wife jumped out of the way. By the time I got in car and got it stopped – it was too late. The Right side door had already bent backwards quite the distance, from contact with the fence post.


It took about four guys to get that car door closed – so we could make it back home – with wife crawling over the L/F seat and console to do so (she was not happy – even when I offered her to sit in my lap, for the trip).

Daytona (G-body) doors are different with the T-Top option - almost like comparing F or M-body 2-doors to 4-door, doors. It took me a while to find a replacement door, get it painted and installed.
BudW

 

[Rustyroger]

Ok I'm back again. Had to forget working on the car and concentrate on working on my back.
But now I'm mobile again and allowed out to play.
The drivetrain and brakes are in decent shape so I've been paying attention to the inside over the last couple of days.
First off, the drivers seat was stuck fully forward, power to the switch and the motors worked when they were powered up. So I took the switch off and took it apart. I was greeted with a horror show of verdigris everywhere. After two hours of carefully removing the contacts and cleaning them up I now have a fully functioning seat.
Then on to the rear right passenger door. It was locked, the interior handle had been removed and the pop up lock on top of the door trim was nowhere to be seen. I found the handle, but the door wouldn't open. After not the most fun I've had with my clothes on I managed to to get the trim off and unlock the door.
I also found the pop up bar in the bottom of the door, and a look at the other door revealed the plastic mechanism for the pop up was missing. I think it's some sort of quadrant mechanism.
Are these available anywhere?. I'm going to need one even if I succeed in the next job, fixing the central locking.

After that I need to have the windshield surround refitted, the headlining installed, and sort out why I seem to have no vacuum operating the heater controls.
I need to sort out the sagging rear springs too, but I may have to get someone to take them off for me.

Still it's good to open my toolchest again.

Roer.

 

[BudW]

There are 2 plastic vacuum tubes (one gray (or white) and one black) coming from firewall. These tubes are brittle, and it doesn’t take much to snap one. The good news is you can take a broken vacuum line/tube to parts store and get a short section of vacuum hose to repair it with (might as well get an enough hose to fix it in a few places, instead of running to parts store two or more times, just in case).

Here is a picture of the two under-hood lines. The black one goes to the vacuum tree (on intake manifold).

Yellow arrow

The other goes to the hot water valve that should be attached to this brace.

The red arrows is the gray/white tube. Orange circle is about where they enter the firewall. The green circle is the hot water valve.

Inside of the car, the two vacuum tubes/lines attach to a conglomerate of lines that goes to A/C control head and to the various door motors/actuators. There is a 7-pin connector, not too far from the A/C control head, that sometimes tends to rot and fall apart. If yours has fallen apart – no worries. Just take the old tube ends and color code them to each other using the same vacuum hose you obtained above.
An aid for that is in PDF file (below).


I would need a picture of the door lock rods - to know exactly what you are referring to. If replacement door lock rods are needed – you will need to find someone with parts car to get parts from, and have shipped to you. If your rod is missing a clip to hold it in place, you might be able to get away with not replacing the clip. It will need two hands, one to hold rod in place and other to get door panel in position. Sometimes it helps to install the lock knob (if available) a couple of turns, so you can get panel back on, then tighten the knob the rest of the way.

Anther thing I’ve done, if you are missing a knob, is to temporarily steal a knob from another door.

Before installing the door panel, get some spray can grease (white lithium works well) and give the door latch a few good sprays beforehand. The grease in these 30-40-year-old cars gets hard after a while – which keeps the electric door locks from working correctly.

All 4 door locks on my ’86 Fifth Ave try to work – and a good cleaning and re-greasing will make them work like new again (just another thing on my long list of things to do).


Chrysler power door lock switches, window switches, and seat switches can be rebuilt if you have patience, more times than not. Other switches like ignition, headlight, and so forth, are not worth the time to rebuild (in other words, not an easy job no matter how patient you are, and sometimes a lot of work still equals a dead switch).
BudW