Got some work ahead of me.....

[Rustyroger]

Good information about the vacuum pipes Bud, thank you.

The piece missing from the passenger rear door is a plastic quadrant that connects the pop-up bar (the part that goes up and down), to the bar that connects to the door lock mechanism. I have the bar and knob btw.
I spent most of this afternoon removing and degreasing the locks, then spraying some white grease on them. I couldn't see any way of dismantling the lock switches, but spraying some contact cleaner into them seems to have helped. I also had to solder a wire onto the passenger rear locking solenoid.
However now I have functioning central locking. I think I will need new lock switches sometime, but I can put the trim back on the doors now.

Next job is fitting the windshield trim, I want to take it to a show next Sunday. Hopefully I'll have some pictures to show.

Roger.

 

[Rustyroger]

Major setback today. I took the car for it's mot test (UK equivalent of State Inspection). It passed with flying colors, but it decided to eat the transmission on the way back. Makes horrible noises in any selector position other than park, and sometimes moves a little before losing drive.
The fluid is like new btw. I know next to nothing about automatics, any simple checks I can make before pulling it off and taking it to the local transmission shop?.

Roger.

 

[78VOLAREWAG]

See if it will back up. Also see if it will move forward if you put the selector in low.

 

[Rustyroger]

If the transmission is cold it might pick up and drive for a short distance in reverse and low, but only on level ground or downhill.

Roger.

 

[78VOLAREWAG]

If the transmission is cold it might pick up and drive for a short distance in reverse and low, but only on level ground or downhill.

Roger.

I had one break the sprag once. awful noise. but if you put in low & shifted manually you could drive it. really not that hard to rebuild.

 

[Rustyroger]

Nope, it wont drive in any selector position.

Roger.

 

[BudW]

I “think” I know what is wrong, but before I go there, can you give a rough run through what you have done to the powertrain on vehicle, please.

Example:
May 2018, removed engine and separated transmission from engine
June 2018, installed engine after performing (___), transmission reattached to engine after performing (____ fill in the blanks ___).
Drove car ___ miles/KM to have (___) performed.
Drove car ___ miles/KM to have (___) performed.
And so forth, please.

Also, making notes of any unusual issues, like noises, leaks, etc. even if you don’t think it is important.

Have you checked the transmission fluid level (in neutral with engine running) and coolant level? Any signs of either fluids being contaminated (ie: ATF not being light pink and see through and coolant being green and somewhat see through)?
BudW

 

[Rustyroger]

After refitting the engine (out for new freeze plugs) along with a recored radiator the car pretty much stood for a year, however a few weeks ago I got back into it, checked the fluid levels, including the transmission - which was pink and clear btw - it needed no oil or coolant either. I drove it out of my garage to take it maybe 2 miles for its compulsory safety check. The transmission started slipping on the way there, I managed to nurse it home, but it started making nasty noises on the way, and I needed help to push it up the slope to my garage. I pulled the pan off, the fluid was clean, but there is a lot of sludge in the pan. Now the engine and transmission are on the floor of my garage so I can take the transmission to the local specialist. He's a reputable guy who stands by his work, and if he rebuilds it, it will probably outlast me.
The car has travelled maybe 5-6 miles since the engine was installed btw.

Roger.

 

[BudW]

The sludge you see sounds like the paper clutch linings have given out (yes, made of paper) or a rubber lip seal had worn out.
There should be a small amount of metal flakes in pan but that is normal (if metal flakes were picked out, maybe covering ¼” square or 1 CM square). If that is the case, then a soft parts overhaul will get you back on the road. You didn’t mention anything about metal flakes – so I’ll assume it was negligible.

If you have a lot of metal flakes or shavings in pan (enough to fill a teaspoon or more) – then it will be a bit more than soft parts overhaul.

The transmission shop will do this for you, but you will want to get existing torque converter flushed out or replaced.


When reinstalling the transmission, be sure to look at flexplate and torque converter bolts – to assist on lining up the torque converter bolts. I like to take a spray can and shoot a small bit of paint on both flexplate and by the torque converter nut/mount – but a sharpie can work as well. Otherwise it takes a while to get all 4 bolt holes to line up.

Note: you will not have a drain plug - but should a "V" mark.
OR

I have even seen the 1/8 inch hole in between the crankshaft bolts - so location can vary - but "clocking" will always be the same.


Also, make sure torque converter is fully seated in front pump before bolting onto engine. I like to spin the converter and you will feel about 2 clunks when rotating (and lightly pushing in) as two sets of splines line up. When transmission is on engine block, there should be about ¼” of space between the converter and the flexplate. If it is not, then keep rotating the converter until it is properly seated.

Converter is 1/2" from edge of transmission OR converter is 1/4" from flexplate is the same thing.

Once the transmission is overhauled – it should last you another 30-40 years.
BudW

 

[Rustyroger]

Thanks again Bud. I'm pleased to say I anticipated you on this one, at least as in I marked the flexplate and torque converter befor disconnecting them. I noticed one of the bolts had a 1/2" head, the other 3 had 9/16" heads, this is where I marked them btw.
Terry, the transmission guy, always insists on converters either properly cleaned through or replaced before he warranties his work. He is the go-to automatic guy for miles around, even franchised dealers use his services for their warranty work. It's fair to say only around 10% of passenger cars on British roads are automatic, so there are not so many technicians with the required skills around.

Roger.

 

[BudW]

I noticed one of the bolts had a 1/2" head, the other 3 had 9/16" heads, this is where I marked them btw

This is unusual.
All 4 bolts should be the same, with a low-profile bolt head.

If the threads are the same – there is no reason not to use the “off” bolt, but I suspect the old converter might have had a Heli-coil to repair threads, maybe.
If you have access to the 4 bolts, look to see if threads are the same. If so, no worries.
If not and if your converter is a replacement, then you might need to find another bolt (and your markings might need to be re-marked).
If old converter is to be reused – then also, no worries.
BudW

 

[80mirada]

There are replacement torque converter bolts with the wrong head size, my Mirada had the small head ones , I have a bunch of factory bolt sets (convertor and crank flange bolts) from when I worked in a salvage yard. I always put mopar hardware in its own spot

 

[Rustyroger]

The threads are all the same, just different size heads. That gives me pause for thought, when I fired the car up after refitting the engine something was hitting the lower cover for the bellhousing. I removed the cover because I figured something was hitting it, and that cured the noise. I shall check the bolts tomorrow to see if they are low profile head items. If they aren't I'll probably get busy with my Bench grinder tomorrow. UNC & UNF (and Whitworth too) fasteners are available, but not just a case of a quick trip to the nearest auto parts store, mostly ordering from online suppliers is the simplest way.

Roger.

 

[BudW]

Ebay might be another possibility.
The Chrysler part # is 1949765 - and it is very possible a Chrysler dealer might have one in stock (if there are any in your area). I would recommend Googling (or what ever search site you use): "Dodge 1949765" and see what pops up.
BudW

 

[Rustyroger]

Maybe Jeep ones will fit? the only Chryslers imported officially to the UK were Jeeps, Vipers, and a slew of smaller models like the Neon, PT Cruiser, & caliber, and lately the Challenger. I'm guessing they probably had metric fasteners apart from Jeeps.

Roger.

 

[80mirada]

Jeep Grand Cherokee, V8 auto, 1992-1998, will have the convertor screws that fit older Mopars