is this normal?? found this 1979 asp-dust-runner

armataz

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Sometimes if you take the tag off, the numbers are readable from the back as a mirror image.
with the condition of this section of the tag I dont want to risk holing it, by having the rust pop completely. thats why i stopped trying to clean it. the readable surface is in the paint, which is on top of the blistered rust. the more I tried to clean it, the more detail I lost.
magnified M78, and it is M7 B3. if B3 is blue, what is M7
 

BudW

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The "M7" part of the M7B3" trim code is the style of seats ("M" = bucket, bench, 60/40, etc.) and type of seat materiel ("7" - cloth, vinyl, leather, combination thereof, etc.). I didn't have that code available to look up to give you.

I agree with @Aspen500 that removing the fender tag and looking underneath might be easier and less destructive than anything else.
 

armataz

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thanks bud for the leg work,
knowing the buckets are correct along with some other option parts also help nail things down..
duster package for instance had the plaidcloth/vynel according to the 79 buckets dealers manual.
the rear quarter louvers are also a correct option for the duster package . knowing the option code to compare them to the missing code links. might also fill those gaps.
the next break in the weather, I'll see about pulling the plate, but if the rust patch pops cuzz it's stuck to the fender.. dont say I dint mention my concerns about it.
 

BudW

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The fender tags have two different screws holding it on. Before paint, they attach one screw then bend the plate upwards then paint the car. After paint, they bend the tag back down and attach the other screw. One screw head is painted and other one is not.

this is the tag from my '77 wagon:
20170902_104944.jpg

You can see the bend mark. They were cheap and didn't place a 2nd screw on this car.

This is another tag:
F7E14130-F650-4C44-9D3C-AEABA54D7955.jpeg

It was bent the other direction. Notice one screw is not painted.

Oddly enough, all three tags (the two above and yours) were all built at the Hamtramck, MI plant.

There should be some pant (not much though) on the back side of the plate and on the inner fender. Depending on how soon they re-bend the plate after paint matters as to how well the paint sticks on it (not very well in my case).
Also, it looks like your tag has greasy finger prints on it - which might be why the paint didn't stick well (...maybe).
BudW
 

BudW

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These are older B-body Fender Tags I had kept from cars going to the crusher (decades ago).
They look similar, yet are different than those mentioned in posts, above.

Old B FT 1.jpg

This is the back side of the above three:
Old B FT 2.jpg

Notice how they are not "painted" per se, but top one has white paint on it, middle one is mostly blue and some green on lower tag.

Old B FT  3.jpg

You can see where they bent this tag over for paint.

Here you can see some additional markings on the tags. An inspector will mark the tag with a hole punch or stamp to show it passed what ever inspection he was doing:
Old B FT 4.jpg

This is the same tag top and bottom:
Old B FT 5.jpg

Old B FT 6.jpg

I think the stamp is a "C", maybe.

If you notice, there is some, but not a lot of rust on back sides. In some cases, less rust on bottom than on the top side.
Also, It likes someone greasy finger hand print is on the green tag, maybe (paint didn't stick),
BudW
 

armataz

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hopefully mine will be as easy to read when i pull it. lots of interesting info.
I B learnin stuff.
thank you guy's fer takin the time.
 

armataz

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any one know the story behind this T-tops spoiler??
1652392425873.png

1652393478763.png

I have seen a few pics with 79 road runners having this as well as well as dusters like the one shown.
1652394260587.png

but also with the one like whats on mine.
1652393939445.png
 
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