is this normal?? found this 1979 asp-dust-runner

armataz

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Sometimes if you take the tag off, the numbers are readable from the back as a mirror image.
with the condition of this section of the tag I dont want to risk holing it, by having the rust pop completely. thats why i stopped trying to clean it. the readable surface is in the paint, which is on top of the blistered rust. the more I tried to clean it, the more detail I lost.
magnified M78, and it is M7 B3. if B3 is blue, what is M7
 

BudW

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The "M7" part of the M7B3" trim code is the style of seats ("M" = bucket, bench, 60/40, etc.) and type of seat materiel ("7" - cloth, vinyl, leather, combination thereof, etc.). I didn't have that code available to look up to give you.

I agree with @Aspen500 that removing the fender tag and looking underneath might be easier and less destructive than anything else.
 

armataz

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thanks bud for the leg work,
knowing the buckets are correct along with some other option parts also help nail things down..
duster package for instance had the plaidcloth/vynel according to the 79 buckets dealers manual.
the rear quarter louvers are also a correct option for the duster package . knowing the option code to compare them to the missing code links. might also fill those gaps.
the next break in the weather, I'll see about pulling the plate, but if the rust patch pops cuzz it's stuck to the fender.. dont say I dint mention my concerns about it.
 

BudW

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The fender tags have two different screws holding it on. Before paint, they attach one screw then bend the plate upwards then paint the car. After paint, they bend the tag back down and attach the other screw. One screw head is painted and other one is not.

this is the tag from my '77 wagon:
20170902_104944.jpg

You can see the bend mark. They were cheap and didn't place a 2nd screw on this car.

This is another tag:
F7E14130-F650-4C44-9D3C-AEABA54D7955.jpeg

It was bent the other direction. Notice one screw is not painted.

Oddly enough, all three tags (the two above and yours) were all built at the Hamtramck, MI plant.

There should be some pant (not much though) on the back side of the plate and on the inner fender. Depending on how soon they re-bend the plate after paint matters as to how well the paint sticks on it (not very well in my case).
Also, it looks like your tag has greasy finger prints on it - which might be why the paint didn't stick well (...maybe).
BudW
 

BudW

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These are older B-body Fender Tags I had kept from cars going to the crusher (decades ago).
They look similar, yet are different than those mentioned in posts, above.

Old B FT 1.jpg

This is the back side of the above three:
Old B FT 2.jpg

Notice how they are not "painted" per se, but top one has white paint on it, middle one is mostly blue and some green on lower tag.

Old B FT  3.jpg

You can see where they bent this tag over for paint.

Here you can see some additional markings on the tags. An inspector will mark the tag with a hole punch or stamp to show it passed what ever inspection he was doing:
Old B FT 4.jpg

This is the same tag top and bottom:
Old B FT 5.jpg

Old B FT 6.jpg

I think the stamp is a "C", maybe.

If you notice, there is some, but not a lot of rust on back sides. In some cases, less rust on bottom than on the top side.
Also, It likes someone greasy finger hand print is on the green tag, maybe (paint didn't stick),
BudW
 

armataz

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hopefully mine will be as easy to read when i pull it. lots of interesting info.
I B learnin stuff.
thank you guy's fer takin the time.
 

armataz

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any one know the story behind this T-tops spoiler??
1652392425873.png

1652393478763.png

I have seen a few pics with 79 road runners having this as well as well as dusters like the one shown.
1652394260587.png

but also with the one like whats on mine.
1652393939445.png
 

armataz

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got the screws covered in penetrating oil, they are froze tight. the engine is turning easy but wont fire. tried the usual suspects for this..some one did a hill billy patch for the electric control modual. using a ford starter solenoid.
I also found that there is a paint run on the lower left quarter just in front of the wheel well, down by the rocker.
 

XfbodyX

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No amount of hope or wishing will make that car something it never was.

Just enjoy it as it is and build it as you would.

Bud just change the hue of that pic and it will be readable in one parts of the spectrum.

Like this.

2_8357b69ec60d6b8e9e3bbc72bceaa355..jpg


1.jpg
 

Oldiron440

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I put it together in my phone, it fools people in to thinking I’m friendly but I’m still a big smart ass.
 

armataz

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No amount of hope or wishing will make that car something it never was.

Just enjoy it as it is and build it as you would.

Bud just change the hue of that pic and it will be readable in one parts of the spectrum.

Like this.

View attachment 47432

View attachment 47433
I know. and no matter what. it is still a volare' at heart, I'm just trying to find more about it, and get some advise.
as for building it how I want it.. I know in the 80' there were some issues with some engines with warping, bad guides and other problems.
that is why I asked which ones I might want to try to avoid /which years were known to be better. so I can be better informed on that. I figured some one here would know more about it then I do. and it would save me some time/money.
as mentioned I want to get away from the overly complicated 70's era smog devices and get something a little newer. maybe injected to better handle todays ethanol fuel and not have to worry about fouling the carb.
but right now I would be happy just to figure out the ignition problem on the 225. and get it to fire and run in the mean time. LOL

thanks for the tip on changing the hue. I dont know how to do that. I tried my lighting settings in my editing package, but it just made it blur out or get darker.
hopefully I'll be able to pull the plate next time I get a chance to work on the car.
 

7T8 Custom

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The spoiler on your car is a one piece that was available on 76-77 models. the three piece spoiler was on 78-80 models so the one you have had to have been added by a previous owner. That owner most likely also added the fender flares.
 

armataz

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The spoiler on your car is a one piece that was available on 76-77 models. the three piece spoiler was on 78-80 models so the one you have had to have been added by a previous owner. That owner most likely also added the fender flares.
thank you.. guess that solves my mystery. and free' me to do what ever I want, with out fear of it being a RARE optioned car.
time to go engine/trans shopping.
 

armataz

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seen the add for the shumacher 225 K member conversion to 360/340' has any one here tried them?
 

XfbodyX

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F fender tags never got inspection markings or stamps. As chrysler advanced so did there inspection process and so the Fs used the inspection strip that covered several areas.

Many confuse the strip as a second or third fender tag.

Maybe someone will lay one out and explain all the inspection points.

00i0i_cM2IU7BDSBj_1200x900.jpg


1976-plymouth-roadrunner-survivor-4-speed-9.jpg


s-l1600gttrhrhrh.jpg
 

armataz

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thanks to all,
since it is a volare' duster w/ road runner add ons. I decided to go a head with the engine swap .
it has been suggested I look for a 5.2 or 5.9 magnum from 92-96 because it's the most modern direct fit engines/transmissions.
so now I'm now looking for a ram or dakota. as a parts vehicle.
I also ordered this to complete the packaged look. I figured if it's got the flares and spoiler, may as well have the scoop too.
1672683888494.png

got the title strait for the DMV, so hopefully I'll get her on the road this summer.
 
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