MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Passenger side viewed leaning over fender.
Next pic is pass side viewed from front
Next pic is driverside viewed from front.
Chains limit control arm movement during wheelies.......
M BODY and 150 MPH
- Thread starter CM360
- Start date
Passenger side viewed leaning over fender.
Next pic is pass side viewed from front
Next pic is driverside viewed from front.
Chains limit control arm movement during wheelies.......
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I bet she doesn't!
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
BwaaHaHaaaaaaaaaa!!!!
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I didn't limit droop but I limit compression, I've crushed two oil pans.
Busted ring gears.....
Busted ring gears.....
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MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Pics please, of ur compression limiters
And women too
And women too
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Not mine but it's impressive and I like the stance.
I'd like to do a SW Coil Over Front End Kit and set my engine back 10 to 12"
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Ok, back to Stock front suspension, except for the chrome plated K Frame and Control Arms.... Wes gots more bling than any NSX, Yo! Lol
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't mind the Chrysler a bit!
Compression limit was done by spacing snobbers 2", It will scrape the pan every once in a while but not shove the sump at the crank.
Compression limit was done by spacing snobbers 2", It will scrape the pan every once in a while but not shove the sump at the crank.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
By the way the Chrysler is how I would try going 160 in the quarter! Thats what you need. IMO
I do ask that we be civil in our discussions, please!
CM360 does have a valid question – and for a person who hasn’t been in that “territory” before, he (I assume a he) doesn’t need to be talked down too.
Everyone does have valid points, though – which each can be communicated without trying to belittle someone else (which may, or might not have been, intentional).
Getting back to my personal comments, now (ie: moderator’s hat now removed).
I hadn’t seen of or heard of a person chrome plating his control arms or the K-frame, before. I would like to see more – but this thread is not the place for it.
I have a question for you, CM360. Are you asking about overall speed, for ¼ mile, for circle tract or road racing, or something else?
I do know that alignment, shocks and tires have (and worn parts) all have factor – and what works on one instance – might not work in another.
BudW
CM360 does have a valid question – and for a person who hasn’t been in that “territory” before, he (I assume a he) doesn’t need to be talked down too.
Everyone does have valid points, though – which each can be communicated without trying to belittle someone else (which may, or might not have been, intentional).
Getting back to my personal comments, now (ie: moderator’s hat now removed).
I hadn’t seen of or heard of a person chrome plating his control arms or the K-frame, before. I would like to see more – but this thread is not the place for it.
I have a question for you, CM360. Are you asking about overall speed, for ¼ mile, for circle tract or road racing, or something else?
I do know that alignment, shocks and tires have (and worn parts) all have factor – and what works on one instance – might not work in another.
BudW
To put a m car into the 9's, I'm looking at 150 MPH as a compliment to the time. My '65 Dart does 10.50's @ 125 w/o any issues on a stock yet beefed and slightly modified front suspension. I have 2 motors available a W2 headed 360 and an aluminum headed 440. Both need to be rebuilt. Both are close to 600 HP. I'm just looking for front suspension mods that will take the car safely down the 1/4. Yes I could scrap the complete front end but an M is not worth it.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I'm a little confused, is this A body's only? LOL
On an A body I would pull the cage through the firewall to the frame at the base of core support, just me. Disk breaks, suspension limiters as described before and get a rule book and follow......before you spend a dime to go faster.
As an edit: it only takes 480rwhp to run mid 10s in a 3200lbs car with an efficient chassis.
On an A body I would pull the cage through the firewall to the frame at the base of core support, just me. Disk breaks, suspension limiters as described before and get a rule book and follow......before you spend a dime to go faster.
As an edit: it only takes 480rwhp to run mid 10s in a 3200lbs car with an efficient chassis.
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Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
You might not think so but I'm trying to help you, a drag car is a package deal..... I have been involved in drag racing for 43 years. I for sure don't know it all but I can see my way around a drag car.
The biggest thing that I don't like about guys running 40 year old suspension parts on fast cars is I have seen more than a few come apart at the strip. One that comes to mind was a 68 El cameno, BB, nice paint fast he carried the front tires about a foot of the ground for 20 feet, truck settaled down broke a tie rod hit the gard rail and slid though the lights on the roof.
I've seen it happen to a 240Z and a camaro also.
If you use a stock suspension you need to get anal about everything. Nothing but the best parts. And hope it stays together.
The biggest thing that I don't like about guys running 40 year old suspension parts on fast cars is I have seen more than a few come apart at the strip. One that comes to mind was a 68 El cameno, BB, nice paint fast he carried the front tires about a foot of the ground for 20 feet, truck settaled down broke a tie rod hit the gard rail and slid though the lights on the roof.
I've seen it happen to a 240Z and a camaro also.
If you use a stock suspension you need to get anal about everything. Nothing but the best parts. And hope it stays together.
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
And this is how it starts, good grief.
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
Just rebuild your front end, use the better tie rod sleeves or the solid ones. I myself have never seen the need for the links of chain welded on, ive just used bumpers and good shocks. Solid stops or limiters just lead to bigger problems imo. Steel braided brake lines in place of the oem rubber is a good thing also.
Not mentioned yet in this mess of posted confusion and memories is the need to remove and inspect the actual bare K member every couple years or sooner if something brakes and the front drops hard. I used a whole spool of mig wire this past winter to get all the cracks on mine delt with and will replace it with a fresh unit this next winter.
You can also weld a plate on the bottom of the K and just leave enough room to slide in the sway bar if you decide to keep it, the plate adds alot of rigidity to the unit by making the bottom more whole and does double as a good skid plate if ever needed.
Next time your at the track ask to look at some of the mopar racers front ends, sure they may be a b or e body cars but most you will find just a brake kit, fresh serviceable parts. A good setup combo that pulls the wheels is not as violent as some think, but rather just a fraction of a second of instability on touchdown.
Although you didnt ask it directly,keep in mind a good rear suspension has a large impact on how the front works. Weather ladder with coil overs or monos/sliders and adjustable shocks leave the pinion snubbers back in the 80-s.
Not mentioned yet in this mess of posted confusion and memories is the need to remove and inspect the actual bare K member every couple years or sooner if something brakes and the front drops hard. I used a whole spool of mig wire this past winter to get all the cracks on mine delt with and will replace it with a fresh unit this next winter.
You can also weld a plate on the bottom of the K and just leave enough room to slide in the sway bar if you decide to keep it, the plate adds alot of rigidity to the unit by making the bottom more whole and does double as a good skid plate if ever needed.
Next time your at the track ask to look at some of the mopar racers front ends, sure they may be a b or e body cars but most you will find just a brake kit, fresh serviceable parts. A good setup combo that pulls the wheels is not as violent as some think, but rather just a fraction of a second of instability on touchdown.
Although you didnt ask it directly,keep in mind a good rear suspension has a large impact on how the front works. Weather ladder with coil overs or monos/sliders and adjustable shocks leave the pinion snubbers back in the 80-s.
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I'd say that I've doing it also for 40+ years bracket, stock, MP, Gas and F/C. The head of the motor pool told me about all the K problems of the M and put an ignition box in my car that limited top speed to 100 when he heard of my turnpike escapades. As per him, the CA state police were suing Chrysler about the M body issues. I've seen the Firm Feel welded K's. Considering that the frame will be tied with a 12pt cage, the weakest link is the front suspension. If it means a new front rails and after market or fab'd K then I might not use this M car at all. My F body, as a N/SA, only needed the frame tied and an 8pt roll bar installed. I rebuilt the front end, welded a few places of the K but never really liked the set up. But at 12.00 at 107 its OK.
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
"When this baby hits 88MPH, you're gonna see some serious shit!"
Holy Exploding K-Frames BatMan
Holy Exploding K-Frames BatMan
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
The only welding I've had to do on the K frame is the brackets for the big block in 1987, no cracks and it's been removed sandblasted and repainted.. I must have done it wrong.
