The C-body booster confuses things – so I “X”ed out.
I have found no good pictures of a manual brake master cylinder vs. Power brakes – so I used and modified your picture.
The Red is push rod. The Blue is location where master cylinder should be located at – which is a couple of inches lower than power master cylinder is at.
If your car has a cast iron master cylinder – it will be worth the weight loss to convert to an aluminum master cylinder (if applicable).
I think ’78 was last full year of cast iron and ’80 was first full year of aluminum master cylinders.
I’m fairly sure (but not 100%) that you can get undersize and oversize bore master cylinders as well as same for wheel cylinders.
Other than relocating existing master cylinder to correct holes – I think wheel cylinders would be easier to change out.
My suspicion is the previous owner used a power brake reinforcement plate instead of manual brake one. If so, I would make your own plate – for finding a manual reinforcement plate is not easy to do.
BudW
I have found no good pictures of a manual brake master cylinder vs. Power brakes – so I used and modified your picture.
The Red is push rod. The Blue is location where master cylinder should be located at – which is a couple of inches lower than power master cylinder is at.
If your car has a cast iron master cylinder – it will be worth the weight loss to convert to an aluminum master cylinder (if applicable).
I think ’78 was last full year of cast iron and ’80 was first full year of aluminum master cylinders.
I’m fairly sure (but not 100%) that you can get undersize and oversize bore master cylinders as well as same for wheel cylinders.
Other than relocating existing master cylinder to correct holes – I think wheel cylinders would be easier to change out.
My suspicion is the previous owner used a power brake reinforcement plate instead of manual brake one. If so, I would make your own plate – for finding a manual reinforcement plate is not easy to do.
BudW