Mopar misery...

Eauledoit11

Eauledoit11

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My 77 Aspen won't start. The motor will crank, but I'm pretty sure the problem is ignition. I'm getting fuel in the carb, I changed the plugs today, the battery is practically new and I even put a shot of ether in the bowl. Nothing. Anyone got any ideas? I've had this car for 6 or so years, she's been in my family since it had 300 miles and I don't want her to go the the scrap heap. It's the 225 cid slant six.
 
If you have an extra swap out the ECU and try. Pop the distributor cap and look at the cap and rotor. Mine was trashed when I did a tune up days off. Also unbolt ECU and scuff bottom and where it bolts to firewall. This is how it grounds. Check the ballast resistor, it should read 1 - 1.5 ohms IIRC. Here's a video to a coil test. These are all easy and FREE checks. I have an old Chrysler Ignition analyzer I just plug in.
 
You need Fuel, Fire (Ignition) and Compression, in the correct order for her to run.

You say you have fuel (I’m not doubting you).
I would assume Compression hadn’t changed overnight (Timing might have, possibly)
That leaves Ignition,
Does the engine sound the same when cranking over?

The Ballast Resistor, ICM (Ignition Control Module), Pick-up Coil (inside distributor), are all possibilities. The plastic gear on distributor could be broken (this is a /6, is it not?).

If Ignition Timing has changed, then it is possible the Timing Chain has stretched and jumped time (no mention of how many miles are on car).

You have a few things to check.
If you have a timing light (or access to one), then clip it onto one of (any) the spark plug wires and try cranking.

If you get a blip every time, then check ignition timing.

If timing is close and you get a blip every time, then next thing to check is fuel system.

BudW
 
7T8 Custom said:
Ballast resistor?
Click to expand...
That's the ceramic rectangle on the firewall, yes? If so, I had a spare in the glove box and that didn't work either. Thanks though!
--- Post updated ---
this little guy?
--- Post updated ---
lowbudget said:
If you have an extra swap out the ECU and try.
Click to expand...
I had to do that once before. Is it supposed to melt the wax to the inside of the car???

Ballast resistor.....JPG


Ignition Moduel.JPG
 
I can’t see the pictures, at work (for some reason).

The ICU and voltage regulator (and few other “electrical modules") have a steel outer case and has epoxy on backside of it.

I have seen two reasons for the epoxy to melt out.
A) environmental reasons (ie: temperature) (the more common reason I found).
B) part overheated electrical wise, which melted the epoxy out.

Generally if one of these modules fails electrically wise, it will not melt out the epoxy.

I have seen modules with the gooey sticky like stuff (epoxy) melted out that still worked fine. BTW, that “stuff” is a bear to clean up afterwards.

BudW
 
Just my two cents and questions.
How long was the car sitting before it wouldn't start?

The white rectangular ceramic thing is your ballast resistor. If that was the main issue the car would catch but die as soon as you let go of the key. As mentioned it could be the ECU box that's mounted on the fender well. The reason I ask how long it's been sitting is you might have corrosion somewhere.

Have you checked for spark?
One way to check is to pull a plug and put the wire on it. HOLD IT BY THE RUBBER BOOT! DON'T FRY YOURSELF! Get your buddy to crank the engine and see if the plug is sparking. It's easier when it's darker out obviously. If you're not it might be the coil or the ECU.

If the car was sitting and the gas isn't that new you could've fouled the plugs with gas too.

Just my two cents.
 
Captain Caravelle said:
Just my two cents and questions.
How long was the car sitting before it wouldn't start?
...
The reason I ask how long it's been sitting is you might have corrosion somewhere./QUOTE]

what kind of corrosion? like rust build up or something?

I drove it daily in high school (09-11 or so) and in that time I rebuilt the carb, replaced the power steering pump, the starter, the ECM, as well as routine oil changes, and an ungodly number of tires. It was in pretty good condition minus the front end that I haven't gotten around to doing and the engine/tranny rebuilds that it could probably use. It sat awhile, but I'd run it a few times a month. Two weeks ago I wrecked my daily driver and went back to the Dodge to get to work and stuff. It worked just fine for like a week and now I'm not getting ignition. I checked the spark plugs for sparking and got nothing. The day before it quit working I adjusted the idle because it was too high for summer down here in Texas and it died in the driveway when i got back from work. I got it going again an hour or so later and parked it. The next day it started just fine and died on my way to work. She hasn't started since.


so would this be an ECM issue, or the distributor? Any good ways to check that doesn't involve me spending my tuition money on parts I might not need? Can the tests lowbudget suggested be done on a $5 multi-meter i got for free with a $20 purchase at Harbor Freight?

Thank you all so much for your input and assistance! It's much appreciated!
Click to expand...
 
I would go process of elimination (free) first. See if you have spark from the coil. If not then that would be my suspect. If you do then plug in the distributor and see if there's spark going from there to the plugs. If not. New cap and rotor time.

As crazy as it sounds just while I'm thinking about it. I had a slant that wouldn't run no matter what. Turned out the oil pressure switch busted and I think was either shorting or just interrupting the circuit somewhere. Turned out that was my problem. Strange.

But I would check those culprits first.
 
Hmmmmmmmmm.....the oil pressure light is always on for no apparent reason. But I'll check the coils first.
 
Eauledoit11 said:
Hmmmmmmmmm.....the oil pressure light is always on for no apparent reason. But I'll check the coils first.
Click to expand...

That could be the problem.....?
Mind you it'll stay on if the car isn't running.
--- Post updated ---
Here's some reading material just for fun. (click on the pics to make them larger)

20160509_200511-1.jpg

20160509_194143-1.jpg


20160509_200635-1.jpg


20160509_200658-1.jpg


20160509_200719-1.jpg

--- Post updated ---
Also keep in mind I am by no means an expert. There's far more knowledgeable people on here than me. I'm just throwing ideas out there.
 
Becky, they use different terms North of our border, so the term Professor might still might apply.

Eauledoit1, I have a suggestion that helps me.
I try to avoid holding on to or touching the spark plug wires when testing.
What I try to do is take a small screwdriver (type doesn’t matter) and insert it into the spark plug boot (where boot would normally touch the spark plug) then position the screwdriver plastic part against anything steel, so the metal part of screwdriver has about ¼” gap. If you do it correctly, you should be able to see the spark jump while cranking the engine inside (or standing just outside) of the car. Being dark outside does help.
The ¼” gap is not an exact science - just as long as screwdriver shaft is not touching metal and less than say ½” (much more than that, it will not spark).

If testing the ignition coil you could do the same thing by removing the secondary coil wire from the center of distributer cap and placing the metal part close to metal (as above). It will spark faster (6x or 8x) than a spark plug will, and might not quite as visible, but will still test if ignition system is not working.

You will need to have "line of sight" with the gap, to see it

Can you test, and report back to us?

BudW
 
So after a couple electrocutions, a new ballast resistor, and an ECM she's running as good as she ever has. Thank you all so much for your help and advice. Now on to my next project, the wiper blades......anybody know where I can get replacement blades that fit the wiper arms? They're the stock originals.
 
Last time I needed them i got them at my local O'riley. But as I recall I bought the last two or three sets they had, and they dont carry them anymore.
 
They carry them.
They just don’t want to sell the less expensive part when they can make more profit on assemblies.

There is an O’Reilly Auto parts about 3 blocks from my house and a warehouse about 1½ miles away,

I do not like having to replace the entire wiper blade assembly – for the refill is what wears out.
Also, the cheap plastic clashes with the rest of the black chrome on my car.

Wiper Refill
Wiper refill.JPG


Wiper blades (13 to choose from)
Wiper blade.JPG



Tip,
Anytime I go to an auto parts store, O’Reilly (which is where I took these pictures from). AutoZone, Advance, etc., I always go to their web site first.
In this case it is List: Wiper Blade - 1984 Plymouth Gran Fury | O'Reilly Auto Parts
It tells me if they have it in stock and I have the part number(s) in hand – which means I can get out of there 10 times quicker (also it increases the likelihood I get the correct part).

Edit: I got the year and car wrong - but wiper parts didn't change.
 
Note: I had to order the last pair of refills from them.
But, in my case, I just went to the warehouse and picked 'em up.
 
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