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  1. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    Picked up these seats today to install in the G. Fury at some point in the near future. Wanted something more adjustable and with bolsters. Since these are from the 300C SRT8, still kind of keeps it in the family. Will re-cover them in tan leather/suede in the near future to match my car's interior for a better stealth factor. Now to figure out the wiring for them so I can get the auto adjust working.

    s-l1600.jpg
     
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  2. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    I'm having a bit of a challenge installing these seats related to the electrical wiring for the driver's seat. The seat is powered through a memory seat module (MSM) but the connectors didn't come with the seat because they're part of the interior wiring harness which has separate salvage value.

    Since I wasn't able to determine where to apply the power to this module I purchased a high voltage switch for the seat (like what is in the passenger seat) from another car and another wiring harness from the passenger side seat. My plan is to simply bypass the MSM since I don't need it. Once I get those just a matter of plugging it all in I think. Worst case scenario I may need to reverse the polarity of some wires so that what I'm doing with the switch matches what happens with the motors.
     
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  3. Dr Lebaron

    Dr Lebaron Well-Known Member

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    I'd like to see them in.

    What are you doing for seat rails?
     
  4. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    Since this is my only car, my plan is to make sure I can power the seats and then run a properly fused supply line into the seat area before starting on the physical anchoring. On these seats, there is a bottom and a top half to the mounting system. Bottom half bolts to the frame, top half bolts to the seat and slides - the two halves bolt together with a spacer in between. I'm hoping to take the bottom half of the existing seat hardware and create bolt through holes so that this top half can drop right on it. I may need to alter it for height using longer or shorter spacers or by modifying the lower bracket. In any case, I'll be going to a professional welding shop to help fabricate whatever is needed. Mainly because I don't have a welder at the moment, am out of practice at welding, and need my car daily. This will ensure I don't screw something up and put my car out of commission.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2018
  5. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    drool.gif drool.gif drool.gif drool.gif

    Holy smokes am I going to be watching this! I would love SRT seats in my car. What did you pay for them? Have you slid them into the car to see if they fit?

    A few years ago at a boneyard there was an M and LX car sitting beside each other. The LX car had nice buckets, but I didn't want to swap those unless I could make the backseat match. I pulled the back seats out of both cars and tried to slide the LX seats into the M, but they stuck out too far and the back doors wouldn't shut. Went home defeated....
     
  6. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    It was about $1100 including freight shipping for the whole set. I felt good about this because the recaro seat I was looking at was about that much for one before shipping.

    I have not put them in yet but I will likely be dropping them in about two weeks from now. Looks like they should go easy based on eyeballing.
     
  7. Dr Lebaron

    Dr Lebaron Well-Known Member

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    I know the 80's Daytona/Omni buckets drop in, but never checked the rears.
    $_59eeeee.jpg wqerewqq.jpg
     
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  8. Jonnyuma

    Jonnyuma Well-Known Member

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    My seven steps that always follow those fateful words...
    :cool: I've got an IDEA!
    :) I think it'll actually WORK
    :confused: Who designed this crap?
    :( Dang... it's not gonna work.
    :mad: I'm gonna MAKE it work.
    ;) A little redneck egineering will do it...
    :D It WORKS!

    Then...
    :rolleyes: NEXT...!
     
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  9. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    Hey, I resemble that remark!
     
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  10. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    20180427_234129.jpg

    Just finished wiring up a quick disconnect into the seat wiring harness. Stripped back the tape, solder, heat shrink, electrical tape and friction tape. Hooked her up to the bench power and she chooches. I used an alternator wire extender, lol. It was cheap, did what I wanted and had a decent gauge of wire. Now I'm just waiting for the parts to convert the drivers seat into a plain old non-memory unit.

    Any suggestions/ideas on what to use what was formerly the pedal adjustment switch for?
     
  11. Jonnyuma

    Jonnyuma Well-Known Member

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    Vibration.
     
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  12. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    dolores-haze-lolita-magic-fingers-Favim.com-240234.gif

    Lol.

    Or you could go with a lumpy cam and solid engine mounts. Your choice.
     
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  13. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    Got the high voltage switch, waiting on the harness which should arrive tomorrow.

    20180430_222530.jpg
     
  14. 4speedjim

    4speedjim Well-Known Member

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    Ha! Bought an LA 360 a week or so ago. $150 and the guy wouldn't budge. Ive always thought the fmj's should of had recliners and the guy with the 360 had a set of Daytona ft seats in maroon off to the side. So I got those thrown in. Good to know they'll drop in. Not a perfect color match, a bit too red. But I can fix that!
     
  15. Dr Lebaron

    Dr Lebaron Well-Known Member

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    FWIW, I have 72 Challenger buckets in a Aspen.
     
  16. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    Got the harness! Going to be some midnight soldering in store for me...
     
  17. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    Still working on the wiring, should finish tomorrow. I had to eliminate wires and ended up needing to swap connectors from the old harness back to get the recline motor working due to 4 vs 6 pin. It was relatively easy as I was able to use a pick to free the pins and click them into place on the salvaged connector - colors were all the same on the 4 wires i needed to keep. All the motors power now but they're in reverse operation on the driver seat so I'll need to go around swapping pins either at the motors or at the hi voltage switch.
     
  18. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    I'm thinking maybe a relay switch to deactivate all rear lighting on the vehicle. No particular reason... :rolleyes:
     
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  19. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    Ok, wiring complete on both seats and switches working as expected.

    I stopped by a metal fabrication shop today who agreed to work on the mounting system.

    Next step is to measure the amp draw for the seat on stall to determine the fuse rating needed. Diagram says 25 but not sure if that's for one or both. Found a cool LCD display that measures voltage and current with a 100 amp shunt so I'll hook that up and try to stall out the motor in two or three directions at the same time with weight to get a good figure.

    After that I'm going to relocate the battery to the trunk and set up a nice fuse block with separate constant and ignition switched circuits so I can add the seats and have some expansion for other things as needed.
     
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  20. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    A 2014 300 uses a 25 amp fuse for both front power seats (and seat memory computer) and another 20 amp fuse for both front seat heaters.

    When activated, the seat memory generally operates all seat motors at once – which might be reason for 25 amps.
    If you are like me and only operate one motor at a time, you might be able to get by with a lot smaller fuse.
    BudW