1. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Look at using a Ford starter solenoid if you're tossing the battery in the trunk. You can wire it so the starter wire is only hot while cranking.
     
  2. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info BudW.

    I figured it was probably a big circuit because they wanted to be sure it could handle both seats under stallout and maybe moving in more than one plane at a time.
     
  3. dytch2220

    dytch2220 Well-Known Member

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    I glad you added this comment. I hadn't considered the implication of an always on, huge a$$ live wire running through the car.

    I've been doing some reading and it seems like I need to do quite a bit more planning on the wiring to do this right...
     
  4. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    I’m highly considering placing the battery in the trunk on my Fifth Ave (big block conversion).

    That said, there are not a lot of options for battery relocation on a station wagon (and keeping all the wagon functions working).
    BudW
     
  5. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Do you need the space? Everything fit in my car. Power steering barely clears, but does. If you needed something smaller you could try one of those Antigravity batteries. Small, lightweight and made with lithium - pricey though.
     
    Oldiron440 likes this.
  6. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    Battery in the trunk
    I agree, if your saving weight on the front use aluminium heads and intake, water pump housing etc..
     
  7. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    I know everything fits – but is tight.

    For what I see – my main concern is engine oil filter access. I was thinking trunk battery or remote filter – possibility.

    I plan on driving the car everyday – and trying to make things, like maintaince, easier in the long run. At least on paper . . . anyway.
    BudW
     
  8. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    It's honestly easier changing the oil on the big block than it was on the 360. I had a right angle oil filter adapter for header clearance - talk about a pain. The K frame does require a fair amount of clearancing though so the motor doesn't rest on the oil pump.
     
  9. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Small blocks are a pain, with or without the 90’ adaptor.

    Even more fun if you have a small block with three catalytic converters.

    Did you use Schumacher engine mounts on a small block K-frame – or something else?
    BudW
     
  10. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Yup, Schumacher conversion mounts for the SB K frame. Had to modify the driver's tower per the instructions, but not bad. I keep meaning to chronicle the build of the car thus far in another thread. I'll try and get to it tonight.
     
  11. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    I have nothing against Schumacher – and have only heard great things about them.
    That said, I have a bunch of NOS spool type big block engine mounts that I would like to use, if possible.

    I also know that one, if not both, engine mount perches are in different locations and heights vs. small block – but not really found much published as to how much.
    A plan I developed many years ago (but not implemented) was to perform some measurements and make a jig before cutting/welding (if needed). If I use Schumacher mounts, or not - K-frame modifications will be needed.

    First, I was going to replace all three engine/transmission mounts on either one of my cars (both are 318 2-bbl 904/999 car’s) with new so measurements should be accurate.

    I have plans on going solid (or poly) K-frame mounts – so can not use the K-frame bolts as measurement points. Need to pick another location to get get height measurements on all 4 corners of K-frame as well as transmission mount to ground. I’m thinking the transmission mount flange might be best location as well as slip yoke (top and bottom) measurement to ground - sense transmission mount location might not be the same on A518 or 5/6-speed manual transmissions.
    Also get a crankshaft to ground measurement, a crankshaft to Left and Right frame rails and slip yoke to Left and Right frame rails (or something fixed to measure from).

    Once measurements are made, make a jig using a spare small block K-frame I have – so I can place a big block (crankshaft centerline) in same exact location (to keep propeller shaft vibration(s) to a minimum.
    Part of the jig is to also get a used transmission crossmember (upper part, or the part welded to floorpan) as part of this jig

    My original goal was to put a built 727 into my Fifth Ave and a 5 (or 6) speed manual in my wagon. I was needing to know what/how to modify floorpan and rear crossmember for the manual conversion – for I need to keep the "down time" to an absolute minimum.
    After seeing your A518 install, I’m leaning a lot more towards that direction – which again, having the rear crossmember (upper section) as part of my jig, should help on that portion, as well.


    I do have slightly different goals with my big block conversions than what other people have.
    First, cars will be daily driven and will not be show cars (not that I might not show them) nor race cars (not that I might not take to drag or road race course once or twice).
    My goal is to open hood and at first, second and maybe even third glance, for cars to look like a plain ole small block – so nothing to see here.

    With the Fifth Ave, I want the factory black air cleaner in place with a (faux) Lean Burn computer hanging off its side, (working) factory A/C, cruise, and so forth. A 4-bbl throttle body fuel injection, exhaust manifolds (mainly for looks and to reduce noise). I also want cars to be as quiet as all possible (for long trip pleasure, and for other reasons). Engines will not be built for high RPM and hoping everything will be happy with shift points around 5 to 5.5K RPM. Peak torque way way down low.
    Something my wife will be able to drive and have no complaints about driving - if she needed to.
    Anyway, that is my goals – just need to “get it done”.
    BudW
     
  12. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    Bud I like your goal, the way I found the location of the 440 in the F body is first set the car.up level on stands, the frame rails and rockers ar the best for finding level. I replaced the transmission mount and install your mockup motor and transmission.
    Useing the offset of the transmission between frame rails to give you your offset for the motor location between the front rails. The only thing left is the angel the motor/trans is up in front. I went with 4 degrees up but if I was to do it again I would lòok a 6 degrees up and give the oilpump/filter just a little more room. Now with location found you can build you frame brackets for the motor mounts. An adjustable motor support is very handy at this point.
    I like building a complete mock up motor when doing swaps including fan air cleaner and exhaust befor completely welding motor mount brackets. This includes engine bay items like radiator and shroud and any thing that gets in the way.
     
  13. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    I actually ordered the wrong mounts at first and got their B/RB spool replacement mounts and not the conversion ones. I thought all V8 K-frames were the same and there was no difference between SB and BB towers. Ended up losing a day trying to figure that one out. After getting the correct mounts from Shumacher and doing the required mods to the driver's tower it slid right in. Didn't have to modify the transmission mount either - it put it right where it needed to be.

    There really isn't anything about these mounts that lend them to being more of a race piece vs factory setup. I guess if you're concerned about them being poly and the possibility of it increasing vibration in the cabin. At that point I would call Shumacher and inquire about making a set with rubber.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2018
  14. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    When Chrysler went from biscuit mounts to spool mounts, they also changed the mount offset for some odd reason.
    The biscuit mount K-frames (’72 and older) – the K-frames were same between small and big blocks (except for Hemi’s and A-body’s).
    The spool mounts K-frames are different between all three engine types (/6, small and big blocks). I think Chrysler could have saved some money by only making a V-8 and /6 spool type K-frames – but they didn’t.


    I have two big block change-overs and I have a bunch (20+, I think) NOS spool type engine mounts. That, and I want to know the exact differences – which is reason of my “Plan”. Not because I have anything against Schumacher mounts.

    You do have a (small) point about the poly bushings.
    Personally, I would like to have a rubber bushings – but really, I don’t think either matters a whole lot for my overall plans, with one exception. I’m looking to reduce noise(s) as much as I can, for distance driving.
    Vibration(s) can also affect that goal, somewhat, if you think about it.

    With no chance of engine breaking its mount(s) and going anywhere – I’m not worried about engine movement for a 100% street driven car. Twenty years ago, biscuit mounts breaking – it was (is?) a big deal, until the new type unbreakable biscuit mounts came out.


    I’m planning on using dual electric cooling fan motors – so fan shroud (centering) will not matter. Dual motors – so no interference with water pump snout.
    BudW