Pittman, Idler, Tie Rods - 87 Fifth Avenue

[Justwondering]

kkritsilas -
I think you are right about the 2 sleeves. I reviewed my rockauto order and I had 2 listed, on the partsgeek comparison I had 1 .. Now the orders are within 18 bucks of each other ...

I was going to rent the pulloff tool from autozone or oreillys

If it turns out I don't have luck getting the pittman arm off, I'll go to plan b.

Shouldn't I be able to replace everything but the pittman/idler combo?

 

[80mirada]

The idler arm is an easy swap, the hardest part is popping it out of the center link.

 

[Justwondering]

Other than the pittman arm puller, is there any other specialty tool I need for this job?

 

[80mirada]

Either a tie-rod puller (preferred) or a fork style separator (pickle fork). I have had luck hitting them on the stud with the nut loosely on them. I would take the tie-rods off as assemblies so to can set the new ones up as close to the same length as possible. I also like to clean the splines on the steering box as much as possible and then I paint the master spline a bright color so I can see it to make lining the new pitman arm up easier. I also learns to mark one end of the center link with a mark so I remember which way it goes, mine was in a box for two years.

 

[Justwondering]

80mirada - is the center link the same thing as the drag line?

 

[Aspen500]

The center link is the curved bar that the pitman, idler and inner tie rod ends attach to. Runs across the car, under the rear of the oil pan more or less.

You can also try giving a couple whacks to the side of the center link or steering knuckle where the tapered stud of the joint goes through. That'll sometimes get it to pop loose. Hard to explain what I mean without actually showing you. This method of course, is to be used on daily driver type vehicles as it will mar up the surface.

The best way, as 80 Mirada mentioned, is a tie rod end puller. Check and see, I'd bet Auto Zone also rents those. It'd make the job so much easier, and much quieter

This is a kit I have. Top center is the pitman arm puller. The others are different versions of tie rod end and ball joint pullers, including the broken one, oops

 

[Justwondering]

I was looking the wrong direction. I'll go back out and lay under the car and contemplate the situation again!

Thanks guys.

 

[BudW]

I hadn’t a lot of computer access recently, and just now read this thread.

First of all, and before purchasing any parts, this needs to be fixed !!!

It has the appearance the cotter pin has fallen out (can’t tell) and the taper popped loose. This spot may be the only problem (then again, it might not be).

What I recommend to do first, is remove the cotter pin between the drag link (sometimes referred to a center link) and idler arm (the red circle). Tighten that nut (white arrow) to 40 foot/pounds and see if it takes up any of the slack. If it does, put in a cotter pin (or another one if first one is missing or mangled).

Those nuts do not loosen normally, nor do cotter pins just fall out.

I have a feeling that loose nut is the only problem. If so, then that shop is giving you “double baloney” (or worse).
Actually, I would not have let the car out of the shop, with a loose nut, like that.


Note: pickle forks and Chryslers are not a good mix. They will tear the boots pretty much each and every time. That said, if boots are torn and you are replacing the joint anyway, then you have nothing to lose.

 

[BudW]

Justwondering,
Have you had any exhaust work done to this car?

I see something missing . . . (the main catalytic converter).

 

[Justwondering]

BudW..
I drove 'old lady' slow and brought the car home and parked it. Hid the keys, so no driving it til I give the keys back.

I have not had any emissions work done on it. It has passed annual inspection past two years, but probably only because no one drives these old cars and there does not look like any 'work' has recently been done on the exhaust.

I have 2 options 30 miles away for front end alignment. I can try going the other direction and find a front end alignment place in another city.

For now, I have ordered the pittman arm, idler arm, inner tie rods, outer tie rods, and the sleeves. I did upgrade to 11/16th since I have a really rocky road into my property and this is a poor county so roadwork is very hit or miss.

 

[BudW]

The converter (missing, err, was removed) is a general observation.

Not sure what Texas emission laws are, but I think you are OK. If not, I’ll keep mine for you, for I’m tossing it out soon (just too lazy to jack car up to do so).

Wish I would have seen this thread before you ordered parts. You might still need them, but I think that shop was trying to suck your bank account dry.

 

[Justwondering]

Its okay ... I am going to replace everything and hold the 'originals' as my backups.

I'm too disgusted with the a/c situation around here to want to put in yet another a/c compressor so I decided to spend my budget on the front end and know for sure that everything is in good condition. My most precious person in the world wants to drive it and I want to know he is safe.

Besides, I'm starting so late in life that my 'backup parts' are almost non-existent. I don't even need a shelf right now, just 1 box.

 

[Justwondering]

Unless and until we are required to have catalytic converter inspections, I'm just going with what the car has. Since I don't mow my yard (a la goats), I figure I'm due some carbon credits.

 

[Justwondering]

It took me about 2 hours to get all my tools lined up and cardboard laid out and the car jacked up with the backup blocks on it in case the jack fails.
About 2 hours after that, I finally got one set of new inner and outer tie rods and new sleeve on the driver's side.

Just finished lunch, so back out for the other side. Here's hoping it is quicker.

 

[Aspen500]

Some progress is better than none, right? Soon you'll have it good as new!

I know you didn't do this but, never EVER go under a car supported only by a floor jack (or any kind of jack for that matter). Wooden blocks (not cinder blocks), or better yet jack stands, are mandatory.

 

[Justwondering]

I had the floor jack under the body frame.
I had a cinder block and piece of sacrifice wood under the (well, I don't know what its called...) under the area just behind the wheel. Did remove the front wheels.
My jack stands are too tall to use. Its better used on trucks apparently.

So I made sure I laid on the outside of the car and never put legs or torso under the car. I did have arms under there but no head/neck/body/or legs.

I'm always aware that I'm the designated driver, cook, washer woman, house builder, grocery shopper, etc. etc. Does make it difficult to orchestrate work on the vehicles if someone has 'borrowed' my ramps, wood blocks, or jacks.

I did rent the tie rod puller from town and it made things much easier.

 

[Justwondering]

Here's today's recap.

The driver side tie rod (inner and outer & sleeve) looked original and totally grundgy, but it was still performing well.
The passenger side tie rod (inner and outer & sleeve) looked original but not as grundgy; however, the inner tie rod 'boot' was ripped all the way around. Definitely needed replacing.

The idler arm looked original and where it connected to the 'drag line'? -- nope its connected to the center link --- it was completely collapsed and did not have a zert so there was no way to get grease into it. Definitely needed replacing.

Once I get my pictures downloaded, I'll post and show you my progress & problems.

 

[Aspen500]

Good deal!
Reason I said not to use cinder blocks is the can break and crumble without warning. I've heard of too many people killed that way.
You sound like me, since I'm alone in the garage 90% of the time. Floor jack, jack stands, wheels blocked........Always like to use the belt and suspenders method.

I'll bet you will notice a huge difference in the way the car drives once the alignment is done. Even if parts don't feel loose, or are only slightly loose, replacing them with new improves it more than you'd think.

I think what you mean by "drag line" is the center link. The curved bar the inner tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms hook to. Some also call it a drag link but that's a different part that your car doesn't have. A drag link connects the pitman arm to the steering knuckle, used mostly on trucks with solid front axles. Then a tie rod end is also hooked to the same steering knuckle with a link to the other knuckle where there's another tie rod end but no idler arm is used. It's the system under your F350 Powerstroke.
OK,,,,,,,,steering parts school is dismissed for today.

 

[Justwondering]

Stuff I think I need.

My parts

Tools and penetrating fluid for stubborn nuts.

Sigh. Someday I will have more than dirt partially covered with granite drop offs from my friends granite shop.

But is was a good day. Cool, cloudy, no rain. So no complaints.

 

[Justwondering]

Straighten out the cotter pin

Rusted

Lots of fluid helped.

First end out.