Project Tire Fryer

Bruceynz

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Hello,

I haven't done the swap yet, I haven't done any maching yet, I have a pair of 318 heads on my work bench that are in good shape, just need 2 guides replaced and then the machining if I go that route.

To get a set of magnum heads from USA to NZ will end up costing me a small fortune, I will need rockers, heads, intake, push rods.

I am going to put some figures out there, re manufactured mag heads $500USD, (I don't have cores so looking at another $100USD in core charges) Mag intake $300, Push rods $100USD and stamped rockers I think they are about $16 a pair so thats $128USD.

I am going to say there is $300USD in freight to get to NZ so that makes a total of $1428 and xrate means $2070NZD plus tax making $2400 to swap on mag heads, its pretty rough when you don't live in the USA!

318 heads- free, set of 360 valves $100, machining in NZ $300 total $400NZD or $275USD

I can't go to the junk yard and look at dodge stuff, its not here, so I am left with one option, ebay and a freight forwarder. Life sucks being a mopar fan down under!

Thanks
Bruce
 
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Bruceynz

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I want to clarify something if you have a 2" tube with a 1" restriction in it will the tube flow as much as its 2" diameter or as much as the 1" restriction? Maybe there is some magic that goes on in cylinder heads that I don't know about, there are odd things that go on, look at the Hemi Eagle heads HUGE ports and 360 size valves yet 400hp net! So I am not being silly when I say magic cause weird things can happen. Big ports, small vales and lots of HP!

That's how I see an edlebrock performer on 360 heads, small port manifold flowing into big port heads.

My brain seems to think for some crazy reason that a head with a 318 performer intake and 360 valves will flow enough/same air to perform the same as the current 360 head because the restrictive part is the performer intake, its restricting a 360 head to 318 flow.

If I was to run a performer RPM with 318 heads then I would say yep going to have issues running 318 heads it's a waste of time, but when you use a performer intake that restricts 360 head flow down to 318 port size whats running a 360 head do for you?

I am not trying to start argument just want to know the answers, you guys are in a far better place to experiment, the home of the V8. I talked to the machine shop and he thought what I was doing would work ok, I talked to a ford mechanic and he said he often finds people have got way to bigger ports and he recommends they sort their heads to smaller ports for street driving.

Far as I can see the answer is it won't work, it will kill the engine and I would tend to agree but when the performer looks like to me turns all 360 engine ports into 318 ports why won't a 318 head with 360 valves perform similar or better with the rise in compression?

Thanks
Bruce
 

kkritsilas

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A few points:

1. The 360 heads are not so big that they are reducing flow velocity to the point that 318 heads are going to be head and shoulders better. The 360 heads are factory street heads, and are designed to have sufficient flow velocity in street applications.

2.You are still not listening to the other members regarding that 340 manual transmission cam. The cam is what is creating your lack of power down low. AJ/FormS told you exactly why. You should seriously consider trying to install the 318 factory cam in the 360 and see what that gets you before you start doing machine work. It may get you what you are looking for at minimal cost.

3. If the flow restriction, as you say, is in the Performer intake manifold, then using a 360 head really won't make much of a flow difference, will it? If the heads won't make a difference, then why go to the time and trouble of shaving the 318 heads? If you are looking for a compression increase, a real effective compression increase (=DCR) can be had with a cam change. Static compression is a very general, calculated number. Dynamic Compression is what you should be looking at increasing, as ii is what actually pushes the car around. With the manual 340 cam you have in there now, you will still be bleeding off cylinder pressure due to overlap (basically reducing DCR) even with the shaved 318 heads.

As to your first question, it will flow as much as the restriction allows, but note that a 2" tube, with a 1" restriction that is followed by more 2" tube will outflow a 2" tube with a 1" restriction followed by 1" tube. This will of course vary with the length of the tube, but for any given amount of flow, a 1" tube will have more of a pressure drop at the end of the tube than a 2" tube will.
 
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AJ/FormS

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And one more time, if you have a 5000 rpm ceiling,there is nothing wrong with running the small-port stuff.They have proven time and again to be perfectly capable for that,even with the small valves.If you had only those heads then bolt them on and go.The added compression,by the milling, will, with a matching cam,make it possible to drive more miles per dollar of gas.And the bottom end will be very strong.
But you do have the bigger heads. On a 360 they will cost you no more than a matching TC, in performance sub-5000 rpm; and they allow that 360 to go well past 6000. So if you cam it to go there, you can glean a lot more power. But again, with a self-imposed 5000 rpm ceiling,it won't make a significant difference (running the teener heads)in terms of performance. But it will sure make a difference in your wallet, with all the machining costs.Again, IMO,you are putting undue importance on the Scr for your application. You have to look at the bigger picture.
I think you are trying to hit too many bases;fuel economy,(seems to be very important to you),torque, and power.You may have to sacrifice a little of one or the other.For a lot of us,it's always like that.Here I am paying 1.00 to 1.32 per liter, depending on the whims of the powers in charge. But my car is no longer a DD, so now it matters not much that I blow a tankful here and there. But at one time it was my DD, and then it was important.I found a happy medium with sorting out the compressions, the cam, the heads, etc, and then put a tune in it to hit the targets.I found that the Scr ain't all that, once the engine is wound up and singing.I also found that the Dcr is all about getting moving off-the-line, but then once on-the-go, it ain't all that either.So what it is about, is finding a happy medium, and then band-aiding the part that is not working.
But I can recommend one thing for sure, machining the dickens off your teener heads for Scr is all wrong for your application.For very little more coin you can have a proper set of pistons in there, and
once the pistons are in there,then you CAN hit all the bases;economy,torque, and power.
Once the pistons are in there you can bias the targets to suit your needs; be it 8,10,or possibly 12, kilometers per liter or 275,350or400 hp, or 5000 rpm ceiling or 6500 ceiling.Yeah that's when the real decisions and compromises are made.
Once the pistons are in there, this conversation will be old news.
But if you want a tractor,that can pull reasonably well to 5000rpm,there is nothing wrong with your original idea, just get rid of that cam!
That cam will cost you nothing but dollars per mile, and a doughy take-off; even if you get the heads down 12cc, this will still only get your Scr up to maybe 8.9, and that 340 type cam will take your Dcr down to 7.5/135psi.Yeah that's still doughy....
But filling up those holes with proper pistons, with quench domes say, will drop your chamber size from it's current size(probably 105cc), to something like 80cc,(that .120 down in the hole being about 25cc). Well that would be an Scr of around 10.3, and that 340-type cam might drop the Dcr to just 8.1/163psi. There is absolutely no doughy at 163psi!; Zip,none,nada.But I would still only run that cam cuz I already had it in there.Or I needed the ICA to keep the engine out of detonation.
KB makes a set of pistons that you can machine the tops off to adjust the Scr/squish for whatever Dcr target you need to hit.They also make a set that you might not have to machine at all. And they make another set for closed chamber heads that are still pumping air in my 367,over 100,000 miles later;good stuff.
But if you want a tractor.....give 'er,your way!
 
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brotherGood

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I'm shocked there isn't a single set of magnum heads around you.

Nevertheless, if you have the 302 heads on the bench, ditch the 360. Put some shim head gaskets on it, get the right cam like what's been stated multiple times by multiple people, and call it a day. heck, you could even sell the 360 to fund this.

Or simply, get the right cam in the 360. just because one part was on one engine that did well, doesn't mean it'll do well in your engine...there's a lot more to it.

I get where youre coming from..wanting to spend as little as possible for the most efficient, powerful build as possible..but you can't have both..so you've gotta find that happy medium and commit. if you want something that's easy on gas, get another little beater for the mileage. it'll help on wear and tear on the toy too
 

Bruceynz

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Hi Guys,

So it looks like my thoughts were wrong, small port edelbrock performer idle to 5500rpm, Summits CFM calculator says I need a 500cfm carb to 5500rpm, (I have 600cfm) 318 heads with 360 valves and port match on 360 from idle to 5000rpm, manual type 340 cam max power approx 5000rpm.

I thought this, smaller port heads equals high velocity in the ports means good off line performance, the bigger valves would help with a bit more flow over the 318 valves, the higher SCR 9.X:1 would assist the engine across all parts of the RPM range. I also thought that the higher velocity and added compression would improve the idle as well.

But from what I am being told a cam swap will achieve the same/similar results as heads or better due to the overlap being less and the DCR coming up at idle. So I de cam it, fit better valve springs and rev it to 6500max (which seems awfully high for a standard 360) and shazam problems solved.

It seems that small ports flowing into big ports doesn't offer the same restrictions as small ports flowing into small ports.

Been a big learning curve, in summary is that about how it all pans out?

Thanks
Bruce
 
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Bruceynz

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Re magnum heads, if Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth were never imported and sold new in New Zealand because they are left hand drive, how would there be any heads here and why would anyone bring heads to NZ to sell when there is no market for them. Yes there will be the odd dodge truck here with magnum heads on it, there are a few Dodge Rams that are private imports but they are in use. We can get some LA V8 parts here as in the 1960s/1970s/1980s Chrysler Australia cars were assembled in New Zealand. They used the 245/265 hemi 6 engines and the 318 and 360 engines although very few had the V8 options. But having said that parts stores still carry gaskets and water pumps etc for LA engines. Oh and to make you cry some bendix brakes brake parts from GM fit Chrysler. So my options are to have stuff freighted out to NZ, there is a NZ company operating out of California that will put people like me bits in a container and whens its full ship it over, still its not cheap! You guys in the USA are so amazingly lucky to have such awesome cars and to have so many after market parts available, I am so jealous! :D
 
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80mirada

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The stupid irony is that Engine Quest heads are made in New Zealand. They are a great inexpensive replacement for Magnum heads, and flow better than most other as cast heads on the market.

My buddy that built race motors said that 318 heads can be opened up to work on a 360, but there is a lot of material to remove to get the flow needed. The port pocket under the valve head is going to take a lot of work to get enough air moving to feed a 360. One of the things with a 360 is the piston speed is faster than a 318 or 340 at a given rpm. A "smaller" cam would be a huge improvement, as would a looser convertors.
 

brotherGood

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Re magnum heads, if Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth were never imported and sold new in New Zealand because they are left hand drive, how would there be any heads here and why would anyone bring heads to NZ to sell when there is no market for them. Yes there will be the odd dodge truck here with magnum heads on it, there are a few Dodge Rams that are private imports but they are in use. We can get some LA V8 parts here as in the 1960s/1970s/1980s Chrysler Australia cars were assembled in New Zealand. They used the 245/265 hemi 6 engines and the 318 and 360 engines although very few had the V8 options. But having said that parts stores still carry gaskets and water pumps etc for LA engines. Oh and to make you cry some bendix brakes brake parts from GM fit Chrysler. So my options are to have stuff freighted out to NZ, there is a NZ company operating out of California that will put people like me bits in a container and whens its full ship it over, still its not cheap! You guys in the USA are so amazingly lucky to have such awesome cars and to have so many after market parts available, I am so jealous! :D

You get me 150 bucks, I can get you a set of magnum heads that have been checked out. If you wanted it bad enough..I can get you my setup for under a grand. I wouldnt think it'd be any more than a couple hundred bucks to freight everything to you..I'll just stick it in a crate. But that setup..you'll have some get up and go.

I almost bought a set of good magnum heads this afternoon just to have them on the shelf. Theres a local Mopar engine builder that I finally got into contact with..learned a lot about heads in the half hour I was there. We discussed the difference between the 360 heads, the 302 swirlport heads, and magnum heads..with examples. I hope to be able to go over there one day where he can spare some time and really pick his brain about it. I went over there because Im picking up a set of 302's for a guy from church. I got there and just stood in there and stared..I dont remember being in a shop dedicated to Mopars before, so I felt like a kid in a candy store.
 

Bruceynz

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Yeah it sounds like fitting 318 heads to raise compression and make a street friendly car is not something that can be done, from the onset I just wanted a road car with a bit of go off the line but which ever way I approached it I was shot down, the idea, the math, the cam, the flow, the compression etc having said that I recently read a couple people posts who did it with the 302 casting heads and said the performance down low was very good but top end was lacking, the heads run out at approx 5500rpm. From the start I said I am not after a 1/4 mile rocket ship but a 0 - 60mph tire fryer but sounds like a cam change will do all of that with a stock low comp 360.

These are the 2 posts I saw of guys using 302 heads and their thoughts:

1 - 302s work very well in 340/360 applications. The right ones. If hp is your goal, then it's not the right setup. They will make mad torque, and will be very strong up until about 5500. That's where my 360 gives up. Mine I ported to the larger intake size, but really didnt make the rest huge. It's enought o smoke the tires in 1st and 2nd in my Swinger, and pulls fine in OD with 3.55s at 1500rpm.

2 - I put a 79 360 into my 87 Diplomat some years ago. During the time I had it I did numerous things to the 360. One of them is relevant here. Take a stock 79 2bbl 360, add a 340 cam, mid 80's stock 4bbl intake and an edelbrock 750 carb as the base engine. Added a set of J heads, no noticeable change. Added an Edelbrock Performer intake, no noticeable change. Add a set of stock 87 318 (302 castings) heads, very noticeable difference. Down low I had lots more torque. Up top, no noticeable difference. Top speed was a bit over the 125 mph mark on the cop speedo, which turns out to be right about 4500 rpm, same for all three heads and both intakes. The only thing that affected the top speed was if I swapped in my 600 cfm Edelbrock, top speed dropped but mileage went up a lot.

The Diplomat had an A833, 2.94 rear gears and P255/50-R15 tires. I'll bet you have steeper gears, but bigger tires so YMMV
 
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8v-of-fury

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Not to hijack, but this is a good thread with very good thoughts/minds in it!

Can I get a post containing what is "THE" best combination to get the "Tire Fryer" that the OP originally asked about. Just so many half posts that say "this" and "that". I am just looking for a definitive post about what is the absolute best under 5500 torque monster that will fry tires.

Gearing aside, purely engine build.
 

Bruceynz

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I believe de caming the 360 will give the desired results to fry tires! There are a couple guys on here far more up with it than me. Although I have played with engines for years I have never really departed much from stock until this one.

De cam the 360 will change the DCR which will help with off line performance, with out looking back through all the posts 163psi cylinder pressure was said to be good!
 
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AJ/FormS

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If you de-cam it from the 340type cam, there will be no additional power to be had at 6500. The engine can be built to rev there, but there would be no point.In fact the 360 2bbl cam will probably be on the downside of the curve by 5000. And the teener cam will run out quite a bit sooner.
There is no getting around this. That's just the way it is.Cam manufacturers bandy about an operating ranges of such and such, and there is no criteria to define what they bandy. But the bottom line is that every cam has a very narrow operating window. It's narrow at the top where it builds power, OR it's narrow at the bottom where it builds torque.And in between it connects the dots.The window changes with every cam size, and with every LDA, and with the rest of the bolt-ons, and a bit with compression too. So every combo is always making compromises. Always.
There are ways to make improvements with the bolt-ons, especially with heads, but those improvements usually cost a lot of money.
The usual idea is to move the power up in the rpm band, and then slap a slippery TC in there to get off the line, and finally some gears to match the power curve to whatever roadspeed you need it to be. This method totally ignores fuel economy, and sacrifices some low-speed driveability.
But this is not gonna work for you. You are very keen to save money at the pump.And you want to get off-the-line briskly.And to your credit you are not looking for a big power number.So this is easy. All you need is cylinder pressure.
You can get it by increasing the Static compression ratio, and then "bleeding" off a little pressure with a late-closing intake valve ( bigger cam). Or you can increase the Dynamic compression ratio on a given combo, by closing the intake a little earlier (smaller cam).
The big cam operates best at a higher rpm, so you probably want to put some gears in the back to take advantage of that. The smaller cam makes it's power earlier, so it will want smaller gears to keep it in it's lower operating range.
The big cam with low cylinder pressure, will be doughy under 2400ish so it will want a slippery TC. The small cam will snap to attention right off idle, so it can use a stockish TC.
As to our sbms; IMO;
160psi is about the limit for iron open chamber heads, with no squish.
140 to 150 is pretty good, we can work with that
140 to 130 is getting lazy on the bottom, but still runs strong at the top
130 to 120 sucks on the bottom, and you are gonna be disappointed with whatever big cam you poke in there.
120 to 110 is approaching hopelessly sucked out off the line
110 to 100 is totally unacceptable for anything but a lawnmower.
That's my opinion.
I took it for gospel truth that your pistons are .120 down in the hole and all calculations assumed that they were flat-tops. That's costing you about 24.7cc The only way you are gonna make it into the 160 plus zone is with pistons.And you really want to be well over 140 to make a tire fryer. Milling the heck out of the teener heads might get them down to the low 60s, so you might gain 12 cc.
The swept volume of a stock-bore 360 is 737.2cc.The current chamber size is 25.7+8.9gasket+about 72in the heads, for a total of 106.6. That then makes (737.7+106.6)/106.6= 7.916 Scr
The best you can do with the teener heads is
{737.2+(25.7+5.2+60estimated)}/90.9 with the thin gaskets=9.11Scr
With some Quench pad pistons you can get rid of the 25.7 in the holes and keep the 360 heads at about 72cc and use the .039 gaskets at 8.9cc,and you might gain another 5cc in the fitted pop-ups. So the chamber size is looking like 0-5+8.9+72=75.9cc;and that gets you an Scr of (737.2+75.9)/75.9=10.7
Earlier,I posted that a teener cam might put you up around134 psi
Well, now, with an Scr of 10.7 you can keep that 340 cam, cuz you will need it's 66*ICA to bring the Dcr down to 8.4/170psi.
Now that's a tire frier!
Maybe too much so. 8.4Dcr is a little tricky to tame. It will need 93 octane premium gas any time it has to work, to keep it out of detonation. You may actually have to take a bit off the pistons to drop the Dcr closer to 8/1
But check it out; all you need is pistons, and a bit of machining, for this combo to meet all your targets.
You might even just go to a zero deck and a 360 2bbl cam, to save a bit more gas money. The zero-deck engine will make an Scr of 9.58, and that with a 252 cam will get you a Dcr of 8.0/160psi;perfect. This will run on 87 for cruising, but will want at least 91 under load,possibly 93 premium.That 160psi pressure is guaranteed to be a tirefryer, and the 252*cam will save you hundreds of dollars over the life of the engine in gas money alone.With the optimized compression, and 340 valve springs, that 252 will pull hard around town with those 3.21s, and the factory TC should be right on.
Next on the list will be a Suregrip and bigger tires!
This will be a better tractor......lol.:)
 
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Bruceynz

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I have this cam sitting in my garage

Mopar Performance P4452761AE
  • Advertised Duration: 268°/272°
  • Centerline: 110°
  • Lift: .450"/.455"
  • RPM Range: 1500 to 5800
  • Duration at .050'': 228°/231°
 

AJ/FormS

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Bruce; I think it's best for you to leave that cam in the box, and here is why(read to the bottom);
That cam will have an ICA of 63*,when installed at 109*. This will net a Dcr of 8.06/161psi, when installed into a Scr of 10.2
To get your chamber to 80.1 ;well,lets see; 72 in the heads and 8.9 in the gasket and 25.7=106.6, no that won't work.
Ok well 25.7+5.9+6=91.6,no that won't work either
Well let's work it backwards with the 360 heads; 80.1-(72+8.9)=.8 in the pistons;there we go!We are getting close.So that takes us back to pistons at zero deck.These will have a 5cc net with their eyebrows, so we will need to go with the thin gaskets. So let's see; 0deck+5eyebrows+5.9 gasket+72heads =82.9cc The new pistons will require a boring so let's order them in .040. The new swept volume then is;
(4.04/2)squared xPi x3.58stroke x16.387conversion=752cc
and the new Scr is (752+82.9)/82.9=10.07 and that will get you a DCr of 8.12/163psi;how close is that?! BadaBOOM!
So once again, you need pistons to run that 340type cam.
This cam will make peak power around 5200, but with those big-port,big-valve heads and the 160plus psi, the engine will carry that peak with a gentle fall off at least another 600 to 800 rpm, so it looks like about a 6000rpm shift.And that with 3.21s and 27"tires will get you 61.4mph; how perfect is that?!
With the 160plus psi, the take-off will not be nearly as doughy as now with the stock TC. But a 2800 will make a considerable improvement. The downside of all this, is fuel consumption.Between the 268* cam with it's 50* of overlap,and a 2800TC, you are far outside of getting any decent numbers.Congratulations on designing a very nice dual-purpose engine;street and strip!

And that takes us back to the 360-2bbl cam and hi-compression pistons.Less maximum power, but a strong bottom end, and potential to make some good mpgs.With optimized compression numbers,a tight squish chamber,and a sharp tune,this cam or one like it,can make the mileage.I can imagine it making mid 20sUSg,on straight hiway. That would be around 16km per liter.
I've done better with a slightly bigger cam, so I know it is possible.I hit 32mpgUS with a hi-lift 223*@.050 cam,and double O/D(1.97final drive ratio).Yeah I know, that's cheating.:)
So 22 should be easy.I imagine the tight squish/hi-comp design going into the mid to high 20s, with a sharp tuner working a metering-rod type carb.You will have to very carefully fit those step-pad pistons in there to achieve that, but I feel you are the guy to make that happen.These are the KB 190/191s;or something similar.
If you have to buy a cam like this 252*, see if you can find a higher-than-stock lift, faster than stock rate of lift cam, that can be made to work in those heads.The important thing about this cam is the 58* ICA, all else about it is negotiable.And the faster and higher and tighter, the more power it will make, without affecting the bottom-end or the fuel economy,much.If you go to a tighter LDA, this will affect the ICA, so then you might want to re-evaluate the Dcr.If you get the tall-dome pistons and adjust the dome shape, you might be able to go to a 260*/tight LDA cam and achieve the same strong bottom end and mileage, but that will require a lot of fitting.That's not for everyone.And the stock 114* LDA makes for a very driveable, street-friendly engine,especially in one of these fat FMJs. I don't think I would bother chasing the numbers with a tight LDA cam.
But the factory 360-2bbl/252*cam is pretty sweet.:) :)
 
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BudW

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Didn’t someone mention pistons, several posts earlier?


1. Find the cylinder heads you want to use. I have no disagreement with any of them mentioned above.
2. Once you have that, then order (or have made) pistons to get the compression ratio you want - now that cylinder head/head gasket CC’s are known.
3. Then find a camshaft that fits your needs.

BudW
 

Bruceynz

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Hi Guys,

This is not a post to start an argument this is more of an interest thing now as I don't know how you work out cylinder pressure.

So if some 302 heads were to be bolted on a 360 with flat top pistons 120thou down, a bit of port work maybe enough to get them to flow a enough to 5500- 5800rpm (if possible), the 1.88 and 1.6 valves fitted and lets say they are 60cc chambers(I have read 58cc - 62cc) so mill off 20thou which will take out approx 3.8cc so heads come in at 56cc, this would bring the SCR to about 9.6, how is this going to effect cylinder pressures with a 360 manual type cam approx, will there be any improvement in low down performance at all?

In NZ the fuels we have are 91/95 and some places sell 98 octane but its expensive.

Thanks
Bruce

comp.jpg
 
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AJ/FormS

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The engine cannot begin to build cylinder pressure, until the intake valve closes. In a given engine,The bigger the cam intake duration, usually points to a later closing intake. The later the intake closes, the less distance the piston gets to do the compressing, and so the cylinder pressure is ever decreasing with each new later intake closing angle.And the doughier the
the bottom end gets.
The only way around this,in a given engine, is to decrease the size of the chamber that the intake-charge gets compressed into.The smaller the chamber, the higher the cylinder pressure.
All this compressing creates heat. And there comes a point that the octane rating of the fuel can no longer resist the heat, and detonation is the result. Detonation very quickly can destroy an engine and is therefore to be avoided at all costs.
Now, another upside of high cylinder pressure, is the fact that to make it,implies a good ring seal. And the good ring-seal creates a strong "suction" on the intake stroke,which at idle is very desirable. It creates a higher more stable vacuum signal to the carb, which can then be made to more accurately dispense fuel through the low-speed and cruising circuits.(which at $8/gallon is a very important thing). Furthermore the higher vacuum signal makes it easier for the A/F to be drawn into the cylinder when you whack open the throttle, and that means you can run a smaller,shorter pump-shot. This too helps economy,in traffic especially. The higher Static compression ratio, and a tight squish will agitate the A/F mixture in the chamber and distribute the gasoline better throughout it. This makes it easier to burn all of it, and thus allows a leaner mixture, and that leads to less fuel being burned, all the time.This is especially helpful at cruising speed.
Most of these pluses cannot be achieved with JUST a smaller chamber. It requires a tight squish design.
Since your compression ratio is so deep in the underground, the cheapest,most logicalest, way to get the bestest results is with the right piston design. At the price of your fuel, it logical to spend a few dollars more today, and reap the results for years to come.
Now as to your cylinder pressure question;
I think it would be very nearly impossible for most of us to predict pressures from just the Dcr numbers. I built my engine in 99, before Dcr was commonly talked about. I was like you, wanting performance with economy.At that time most everybody I talked to, hadn't even come into contact with the Dcr idea. But I had a drive to figure stuff out, and I had money enough to do this just once.So I spent a bit of time with the calculator and started to figure stuff out. But Even after understanding it, and being able to calculate it, nobody could say if this Dcr or that Dcr was supportable with such and such octane gas. I was on my own.
So I went online and found successful builds, from which I could back-calculate the Dcrs. At that time nobody was pushing the limits. I found guys were running some pretty low numbers. Some drag racers can get away with sub-optimal numbers cuz they spend very little time at rpms where this stuff matters, and they usually/often have easy access to better more detonation resistant fuel.
But for us streeters and especially for those of us using our cars as DDs in favorable weather, this stuff is VERY important.And ever more so as the price of gas rises.
So I picked a number I thought might work, and reconciled myself to the idea that I might have to run premium gas or even water-injection. Well it turns out I could have run a tad more Scr,cuz I have been burning 87E10 since day one, and the engine is happy as can be,with full timing.
So what does that mean to you?
Well, today we have empirical results from the guys out there.And almost everybody knows and understands Dcr. So much so that some very helpful people have compiled the results and created calculators. That's where I go for near instant results.You just type in your engine parameters, and in microseconds you get results.
I have still not found a calculator that definitively correlates Dcr to octane, and so you still have to rely on known combos.
Now here is a red-herring, as they say.It is well known that the higher compression numbers return more power from a given engine, and burn less fuel per horsepower doing it. So with better fuels available in NZ, this begs,for me anyway, the question; just how much compressions can a guy run on which fuel, and will it be cheaper to build one way as opposed to another. For instance, if the next grade fuel costs 5% more, can you build up the compression and go 5% further on the same amount of fuel; That would be a breakeven scenario. But what if you could go 10% further on that next grade better fuel ? Now you would be winning, and actually reducing your cost per mile. And of course the boost in compression would mean mo smoke at hammer-time! You could be the guy to figure it out. Got Cash?
So getting back to Dcrs. Here in N.America I have gleaned from this forum only, that with iron heads; 87gas will support a Dcr of about 8/1.And 89gas will support 8.25, and some are running 8.5 with 91gas. The tight squish guys are running maybe a quarter to a half a point higher, and aluminum heads seem to be good for a half a point on top of all else. So that means aluminum and tight squish might run on 91@9.25 to 9.5Dcr
I myself have successfully run 8.9 on 87E10 with aluminum and tight squish@over 185psi. I am currently running 8.7 still as above(bigger cam).
Others are running higher numbers, so it turns out, I'm kindof at the lower end. So I'm leaving performance on the table. That's ok, I already have enough tire frying capabilities.
And the next grade of fuel runs over 15% higher, and the way I drive, I could never get 15% better mileage, so I'm stuck,lol!
Well, on straight hiway, I can, but that doesn't happen very often anymore. :(
 
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Bruceynz

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So de cam (reduce over lap) or de crease chamber size will have similar effects on bottom end, this has become more interesting than I thought ever possible. So correct me if I am wrong, if you want to run a cam with big over lap you can actually get away with a high SCR because when its running the DCR is lower?

Learning a lot here, hope other people are to
 

BudW

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There is a lot to put together an engine that is well matched.
What works for driver A - will not be the same combination that works for driver B.
 
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