1. picklesgarage

    picklesgarage Well-Known Member

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    So finally got around to replacing the radiator. So much for "bolt in". Nothing fit like it should. Had to adjust the lower mounts to fit, drill new holes for the top, "adjust" the holes in the fan shroud and make a tap to move the condenser away from the radiator. Hopefully will be some worry free ( at least from the radiator ) driving this year.

    IMG_20200518_1404574_rewind.jpg
     
  2. 89.Fifth

    89.Fifth Well-Known Member

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    What was the part number or link to the seller?
     
  3. Mikes5thAve

    Mikes5thAve Well-Known Member

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    Truck radiators of the same era are also a direct fit but you have to watch hose sizes and location. But them too have gone to plastic and aluminum.
    I had mine recored when I needed it. At the time the aftermarket rad I got still had had the metal tanks but it had a cheap plastic wing not as a drain and the side tanks were weld on with wires horizintally crossing the rad which made it not installable with the a/c parts in place.
     
  4. LSM360

    LSM360 Well-Known Member

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    Years ago on a previous AHB I had, my local radiator shop that is old school and very good told me they couldn't recore the 26" AHB rad because he couldn't get the AHB cores anymore. He also mentioned they are a two core, but with more fins per square inch to cool better. My current '89 is still running the original radiator, but when it needs it, I'm just going to bite the bullet and send it to Glen-Ray like I did with my Power Wagon's. I had bought a Spectra plastic tank Max Cooling one as my truck came from factory with Max Cooling, and the damn thing would get hot sitting in traffic during Florida Summers. Sent the original off to Glen-Ray, and now it can sit in traffic on the hottest of days and barely move the needle. I really love the factory appearance as well.
     
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  5. picklesgarage

    picklesgarage Well-Known Member

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    Fit 76-89 Chrysler Cordoba Dodge Aspen Plymouth Volare V8 5.2L Aluminum Radiator | eBay
    89.Fifth. should be a link for the same on ebay. if i recall they sold units with shrouds and fans as well. it was more of a project then i was expecting to install. lucky for me i had enough tools at home to get the job done.
    LSM360. i found a couple shops within an hour of me but they all wanted $400 plus to recore. hopefully this will keep it cool enough and not give any problems for the times i need heat.
     
  6. LSM360

    LSM360 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I think you'll be a lot better off with an aluminum one than I was with the spectra plastic tank POS.
     
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  7. picklesgarage

    picklesgarage Well-Known Member

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    so didnt even get a year out of the radiator before it started leaking. its not hitting the ground yet but making a bit of mess and can smell it burning. im pretty sure i got rid of the original but will have to wait for the snow to melt to double check. luckily it still doesnt over heat and i have plenty of heat while driving. not sure if its can or worth having fixed or to buy a plastic one or another cheap ebay one.
     
  8. 69-

    69- Well-Known Member

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    You guys are sooo lucky - 360 bucks for a recore...

    I had to pay approx 1200 bucks for a recore of my 26"-3 row for my 79 360 RV, a MB400....

    *sigh*
    Well, ok, thats german prices...:confused:
     
  9. picklesgarage

    picklesgarage Well-Known Member

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    ya i wish i had paid that now.
     
  10. picklesgarage

    picklesgarage Well-Known Member

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    so Napa, Autozone and Rock no longer have the radiator in stock. looks like they all used the same supplier. no luck on finding my original radiator so far. thought i saw someone mention one of the truck ones fit? im guessing maybe a b or c body one might depending on in/out let placements and size. anyone got some good hints?
     
  11. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    The metal side straps are different on A, B/E and C-body (and many pickups) than the metal side straps used on FMJ's. If you still have the original radiator, then a person can get the metal side straps taken off and re-soldered onto another brass radiator of same size. The radiators Chrysler used on all FMJ's are all brass (top/bottom tank and core) with steel side straps soldered on. 26” wide radiator was used for most all Chrysler vehicles – with an option of 18, 19, 20 or 22” versions. The smaller radiators (typically /6 or cars without A/C) uses wider side straps (which are also different between the 18, 19, 20 or 22” variants).

    thCQFJG07K.jpg
    The red arrows point to metal side straps. The purple lines show where they are soldered on, at.

    What I'm saying is if a person has a leaky 26” FMJ radiator and can't get it fixed, not all is lost. Find another (non leaky) Chrysler with a 26” wide radiator (any year) and take to a radiator shop to get the side straps replaced. It is a 15 minute job (if that long) and you are good to go.

    Now with that said, The upper and lower radiator hose necks are in different locations (Left or Right side on top and Left or Right side on bottom). Also manual transmission radiators typically do not have the transmission cooler/heater in them – which can be a problem if trying to install one on an automatic car. Putting a automatic transmission radiator into a manual car (or converting car to manual transmission) is a non-issue.

    Many of the Chrysler radiators used in late '60's and '70's can have a 3 or 4 core radiator (high performance, A/C and/or have towing package installed) – which are wonderful ones to use (but are also thicker (front to rear)).
    Most well optioned B-bodys, most C-bodies and most H/D pickups (all made in the '70's) came with nice thick (multi-core) radiators – that will fit once side straps are transferred over

    On upper/lower neck locations. (With the exception of /6's), all '69 and older Chrysler vehicles all had the lower neck going to Left/drivers side of radiator. The upper neck depended on if vehicle had A/C or not (if Left or Right upper neck location). '70 Chrysler changed the neck location for lower neck to Right/passenger side on small blocks and a couple years later for big blocks. The upper neck location still depended of car had A/C or not. /6 cars (all years) all had the lower neck at same location, but upper neck location also depended on if car had A/C or not.

    The point is when looking for a radiator, be sure to note the neck (upper and lower) locations on your existing radiator and compare to a possible replacement. If you find one that matches (from any '60ish to '93ish rear wheel drive Chrysler product) then you can most likely use it if re-using your existing side straps.

    Now getting back to non-FMJ radiators that are a direct fit to FMJ's are many (but not all) '80-93 Dodge pickups. Some have said to check the size of the hose necks (diameter being larger) – but I hadn't ran into any problems with neck size before. If you get one with a wider neck than your FMJ uses, then just get new hoses that fit the '80-93 pickup and trim to fit.

    Aftermarket aluminum radiators (or aluminum/plastic) are a different story. The side straps on them are welded in place and are not easy to make fit. One for a '80-93 pickup "should" fit into an FMJ – but I hadn't tried one.

    Note; a '26 FMJ radiator doesn't fit in place of one with a 18, 19, 20 or 22” radiator without replacing the core support plates (ie: cutting/welding) or a lot fabricating to make fit. Then you also have a smaller hole to contend with, as far as air flow is concerned. I plan on getting 26” core support plates to install into my '77 wagon before I get the big block tossed in.
    77 PM pg 7-36b.JPG
    Item(s) number 5

    20171116_113733.jpg
    My '77 wagon has a 18” wide radiator (no A/C car). The white lines are to compare where existing radiator side is vs that of a 26” wide radiator. The red arrow is the core support bracket I plan on changing out.

    Core Brackets.jpg
    A fellow forum members car. He made brackets to convert his 22” wide (I suspect) radiator to a 26”. This will push the radiator closer to the water pump a tad. He still has a problem of the air entry hole being smaller (if that is a concern to you).

    I hope this helps,
    BudW
     
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  12. Kramer79

    Kramer79 Well-Known Member

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    39658 Part number from radiator express. It was an exact match for my 81 slant a/c car with trans cooling holes... I think it was 22” but could be wrong. I have my old one still if you want to repair it - not sure if you are near CT or if it would fit.
     
  13. volare 77

    volare 77 Well-Known Member

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  14. M_Body_Coupe

    M_Body_Coupe Well-Known Member

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    Here is what the full rad looks like in that spot...not all that bad actually, I'll take a better measurement tomorrow.

    rad_mounted.jpg
     
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  15. picklesgarage

    picklesgarage Well-Known Member

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    seems like the big the to watch out for is going to be placement and maybe size of the inlet and outlets. glad that the 26 will fit from most anything that had a 26. i was told else where that a 73 b body fit from champion. might go that route. need to hurry up and pass papers on the new house so i can get parts. missing driving the Ave right now.
     
  16. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    The Champion EC374 might fit - but I have a strong feeling that both side straps are made differently (ie: mounting holes are different locations, either up/down or side to side) and if so, that might be hard to work with depending on where the differences are at.

    Champion Radiator CE374 b.png
    Champion EC374
    thCQFJG07K.jpg
    A direct side by side comparison is needed - but eyeballing the hole positions don't look right (and I have tried it myself decades ago).

    Many people don't realize this, but the two lowermost radiator bolts are designed to be bolted in about 1/2 way or left loose 1/2 way when removing (ie: not meant to be completely removed when removing a radiator). These two spots are designed to allow you to drop the radiator in place and it will hold itself up, until you can get the other radiator bolts in place (or will hold it in place when removing). VERY HANDY. You do have to tighten then once radiator is in place, though.
    Radiator stop.png

    BudW
     
  17. picklesgarage

    picklesgarage Well-Known Member

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    BudW: I'm sure it will probably need the uppers redrilled. the "bolt in" on i had bought as a replacement wasnt right. had to drill the drivers side to fit and expand the holes on the shroud to fit. oddly enough i had to make a bracket to more the passenger side of the condenser forward since it was rubbing on the radiator. i'm sure even a factory replacement will need some massaging to get in proper.
    Im disappointed that the replacement didnt last as long as i hoped, not ever a year in car, and that im pretty sure i trashed the old one. think i was tired of tripping over it and needed the room. the new house has a larger garage so that should allow for the ability to keep parts like that radiator so i could go get it recored and have a back up for things like this. hoping this summer goes better then last and i can get the few mechanical issues sorted and hopefully the interior and body work done. car wise this is second on the list behind finishing my daughters 86 chrager.