Radiator

BudW

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Look for a '70-'80's Dodge pickup lower hose. many times the pickups had a larger lower hose (for some reason).
 

Gearhed

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Ordered one for a d150, and also one for a/b/e body with a 318/340/360 and a/c. Hopefully one of them will work
 

R.W.Dale

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I think I might have commented on the bookface thread about this any luck with a shroud on this Gearhead?
 

Gearhed

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Yes, I believe you did. I think I figured out the lower hose, I'll know for sure tomorrow. As far as a shroud goes, I'm probably just going to see if I have cooling issues for now, and get an e-fan on there asap. Everything is closed in pretty good on these cars, so I doubt it'll have any issues running without a shroud, it'll just be less efficient, and eat a bunch more hp. There's so much radiator there now that even without a fan it probably would keep the temp down unless it got stuck in traffic or something
 

Gearhed

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This radiator is set up for a b/e body shroud to bolt up to it, idk if there would be any clearance issues on our cars, I don't have one of those shrouds, and don't want to buy one since I'm probably installing e-fan(s) in the coming weeks.
 

R.W.Dale

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I have one on my 65 Chevy truck

IF you can get the aluminum fan shroud for your radiator for an E fan they do work very well

the fan they ship with is complete garbage but the shroud is totally worth it.
 

Duke5A

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This radiator is set up for a b/e body shroud to bolt up to it, idk if there would be any clearance issues on our cars, I don't have one of those shrouds, and don't want to buy one since I'm probably installing e-fan(s) in the coming weeks.

Ford V6 Contour electric fans work well with this radiator. I used a Dakota Digital 2-speed controller with them until I went Sniper EFI and let the ECU handle hit.

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Gearhed

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Got my lower hose sorted out today. The hose needed is the stock replacement hose for an early 70s a/b/e/c body with a 318/340/360 and the 26" radiator. Just had to trim about 1.5in off the radiator side.
also discovered that my thermostat housing was warped... When I filled it with coolant and it started pissing out the side. D'oh!
A bit of hammer work and a healthy coating of black rtv, and it's fixed. I Wondered why when I replaced the thermostat there were 2 gaskets, a ton of rtv, some old hard sealant (looked similar to tailpipe cement), remnants of at least one old gasket, and a coating of Indian head... Guess now I know lol
 

BudW

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What I do, on leaking thermostat housings is get a file (or a power sander, turned upside down) and file/sand it down so the surface has a slight rounding to it (filing more at the bolt hole locations). That way it pushes down more on the sides. It also removes any rust or corrosion and leaves a more flat finish.
TStat Filing.png

Note: this is an exaggeration of what I mean.

I know the big block thermostat housing has the same crown shape to the thermostat gasket surface. I am not sure if the same is true to /6 or small blocks.

Another thing I have done, on pitted housings (from rust or corrosion), is I have used abrasives (wire brush, sand blasting, etc.) to get down to bare metal, then used 2-part epoxy to fill in those voids, then perform any sanding or filing once dry. Trying to get an older thermostat to seal when the surface is not flat or smooth, will just leak (been down that road, too many times).

The thick aluminum housings have more of an issue with leaking than the stamped steel versions do, for some reason.
Large Alum TStat Hsgn.jpg

Aluminum ('78 and older), big or small block. All /6's look different.
Small steel TStat Hsgn.jpg

Steel ('79 and older) small block.

BudW
 

Gearhed

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Mine (factory stamped steel) had been deformed by years of over-tightening. It was bent in like the green lines. Not enough to be visible (why I missed it the first time) but when I used a scrap piece of aluminum as a straight edge, the middle was definitely getting no sealing pressure whatsoever, there was a noticable gap. A few love taps with a hammer sorted it right out

TStat Filing~2.png
 
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