Rattle Can Paintjob

Projects & Restorations

  1. The Director

    The Director Member

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    My '88 Fifth Avenue is decent in shape, except for the paint. (I was selling it before, but I decided to keep it, so some of you may have seen it on Craigslist before.)

    The hood is the worst, followed by the roof, and then the tops of the front fenders. It's still on the original paint, and 30 years of weathering took its toll. I'm not looking to spend much, and since there's a nice day tomorrow, I'm going to grab some primer, black spray paint, and 2k clear coat, and see what I can do.

    It won't look like showroom, but it will definitely look better than before. I'm going to start with the hood, and if I yield decent results, I'll do the same exact process through the other parts of the car. The doors will give me an issue, since I noticed a tad of rust on the bottom corner of the front doors, and I need to do something about that before it becomes a real problem.
    DSC07587.JPG

    This photo was from a Halloween car show, and you can get a good view of the bad hood.

    I'll make updates when this gets done, hopefully with a decent or at least semi decent result.
     
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  2. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    The paint on my '86 Fifth Ave was about 95-97% nice when I got the car, over a decade ago. Sun/weather and a lack of waxing the car, is now showing its toll. I have the same problem from the clearcoat coming off the top surfaces and it looks about the same as yours. The sides look decent, though.

    I would think that keeping the car waxed would have kept the paint from failing – but 100% sure that is the case.


    No matter what kind of paint you use and for what I hear, the biggest thing to a decent job is prep, prep and more prep. Sense paint is not my specialty it might be best to let the pros talk more about this.
    BudW
     
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  3. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    My '96 Dakota has been waxed regularly with top quality products since 1998 when I bought it, probably way more than it really needed, including spray wax between "real" waxings and,,,,,,,the roof is almost white, except where the clear coat is completely missing. Tops of the doors, upper part of the bed sides and the cowl vent panel all were fairly bad also. In other words, even with wax, clear still turns chalky eventually.
     
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  4. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    A couple things, first you need to remove what your going to paint over, next spray bomb paint is too thin after three cotes to do any good. The paint will burn back off from the sun.
     
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  5. The Director

    The Director Member

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    Honestly, I don't know if waxing does as much as they say, since I know of a guy that has a Ferrari, and won't wax it. He'll polish it, but won't wax it because the paint can't "breathe." Almost sounds credible, and his paint is still great after all those years (it's an 87 or something like that.)

    I did a decent bit of prep work, but my conditions became less than ideal, and since I was trying to get this job done today (no more days for the foreseeable future of decent weather), I kept working in the dark, under a streetlight. It didn't come out horrid, but it wasn't actually good. Whichever way, it accomplishes my task of rust prevention, and it looks better as one solid colour, instead of having those patches.

    I'm going to do this again probably in a few weeks, or a few months, when I get some consistently good weather, and I'm going to just start at like 7AM, and do it all the 100% proper way.

    The first picture below was the first night that I got it into the garage. The 2nd and third are my pictures of it today. Next time I do this car, I'll be doing it with factory code paint, and I'll get myself a paint gun, and do it the right way. I'll also sand the hell out of it with a sanding machine to. (I sanded this today by hand, not impossible, but gets tiring.) Looks better than before, but not necessarily that great. What do you guys think? (If it looks like trash, don't be afraid to say it.)

    GinaInGarage1stNight.jpg DSC07615.JPG DSC07616.JPG
     
  6. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    I did paint and bodywork for over forty years and the only thing I use wax for is a release agent when molding fiberglass parts.
    I use a petroleum based polish on paint.
     
  7. kkritsilas

    kkritsilas Well-Known Member

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    modern paints, or any paints, don't "breathe", they dry. once completely dry, they are dry, no breathing involved. in the process of drying, paint will off gas, which can result in a hazy clear coat if the car is waxed/sealed/coated before paint is completely dry.

    one of the things that usually is not considered when clear coat failure happens is that clear coats come in two parts, the clear paint, and hardener (catalyzer required to get the clear coat to harden). If there is too much hardener, it can cause clear coat failure earlier than it would if the perfect amount were used. the factories usually get it right; occasionally, body shops don't.

    Another thing to keep in mind is that clear coats are more delicate than many people believe. Clear coat doesn't have any pigments in it (duh), and the pigments actually make the paint more durable. Earlier clear coats (like on our cars) were less able to stand up to UV/Sunlight than more recent clear coats.
     
  8. MotorHoggGears

    MotorHoggGears Well-Known Member

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    Not horrible but you can see the imperfections of the last paint . What I would have done is sand with a 400 grit then sprayed primer like a filler wet/dry with a 600 then spray paint in the black and clear
     
  9. The Director

    The Director Member

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    Yeah, the last paintjob had all these burns, and then some guy must've had a can of something on the car for a long time, because there was this ring mark on the hood - and that made me so confused.

    I initially used 80 grit to get as much as I could off, and then I did 150. After that, I did 220. Then I did the primer. After the primer, I did one more sanding, with 220. Then, I applied 3 gloss coats, and 2 clear coats. (I did 3 or 4 primer coats.... hard to remember at the moment.) I probably shouldn't have used black primer either, since I was painting black, and I couldn't really see exactly how much spray was being put down onto the hood with each pass. That, on top of having a daylight shortage, just lead this to be doomed.

    I'll probably do this again one day, but I'll try to get my hands on the correct coded chrysler black, and I'll make sure the whole thing is 100% smooth beforehand. One thing I noticed, was that there is a bit of body line in the middle of the hood, and I don't believe that goes far up, but I was doing my best to sand on each half, instead of going over it much, since I was afraid the sandpaper would take out the shape of the metal, but I don't know if sandpaper actually takes off layers of real metal. I know that I didn't get through every last layer of paint, but it was something going through my mind as I was doing the job.

    And if clear coats are less durable, I might consider applying a coat or two more of the stuff next time.