Remote oil filter installs - who's got what???

[M_Body_Coupe]

Folks!

Alright...my oil filter replacement "events" are a freaking major PITA these days. The 1-7/8" TTIs primary tubes basically remove any and all room I had left between the oil filter and the header tube. This means I also had to move from a WIX 51068 (4.4" tall) filter to the shorter 51085 (3.8" tall), and that rascal is still tight.

So here is the thing: I considered using a 90-deg adapter, heck I used it on my last 360 build, but to get a reasonable access to the filter w/o always dumping all of it's contents on the headers I had to position the adapter in such a way that it still made the filter change a hard chore.

OK, so the time has come to join the "big-boys" club and get me a remote oil filter setup.

I'm looking for suggestion as to workable setups (for our M/F/J-body rides): where people have mounted these things, what products work and what doesn't work, etc.

Right now it looks like I should run the hoses out of the side of the block, by the front frame rails and out in front of the rad support, so basically between the bumper and the rad support. That looks to be about 40" of hose, but let's say a full 4' to get a little extra room. Seems like the block adapter should be a straight connected (as opposed to 90-deg angle stuff, etc.). The oil filter end side of this could take a straight adapter as well, provide that I buy a setup that accepts the horizontal connector as opposed to vertical one (as an example think of the TD #1513 vs #1113).

Basically, gimme' the goodies to do away with this PITA!!

...as always: Thank you!

 

[Duke5A]

This is Dad's setup. Just a standard relocation kit with a custom bracket to mount it to right above where the vapor canister used to be. Dad even made me a bracket like that, but I never used it because I changed plans and went big block. I've still got the bracket if you want it.

 

[Duke5A]

Below is what I did for mine. Mounted it to alloy plate and used the bumper shock bolts to hold it in place. It's on the driver side, but you might be able to do something similar to the passenger. This puts the bottom of the filter even with the bottom of the bumper.

 

[Oldiron440]

Below is what I did for mine. Mounted it to alloy plate and used the bumper shock bolts to hold it in place. It's on the driver side, but you might be able to do something similar to the passenger. This puts the bottom of the filter even with the bottom of the bumper.

View attachment 55273

View attachment 55274

View attachment 55275

Looks like the bumper could take out the oil filter in a small fender bender making it in drivable. Ford did something similar with there trucks one year.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

Looks like the bumper could take out the oil filter in a small fender bender making it in drivable. Ford did something similar with there trucks one year.

If the bumper gets pushed in that far chances are it won't be drivable anyway.
But that would be my concern being up front that it's high enough that something couldn't easily damage it.

 

[Duke5A]

It's well past the length of travel in the bumper shocks and doesn't sit any lower than the bumper itself. If something pushes that heavy of a bumper back that far the car is fucked either way.

 

[Magnum Aspen]

I Installed a remote oil filter behind the bumper. I welded some brackets to the back of the inner bumper. The filter is at the same level as the bumper to protect it from road hazards and the radiator is lower. I needed to leave the charcoal canister in place and it was too thick to mount behind the grill. It would have blocked the AC condenser. The hoses run under the rad above the bottom of the core support and thru the engine mount. I intend to replace the hoses with bent tubing in the areas that are possibly subject to chafing eventually; some hose will be needed to allow for engine movement. That was my thought process.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

Below is what I did for mine. Mounted it to alloy plate and used the bumper shock bolts to hold it in place. It's on the driver side, but you might be able to do something similar to the passenger. This puts the bottom of the filter even with the bottom of the bumper.

I certainly like the filter mounting setup your dad put together, but I actually have been on a 'drive' to lower the amount of stuff that's showing in the engine bay...our rides already have plenty enough of wiring and hoses. So my preference is to go as un-seen as possible.

For that reason Mark, I like how you had implemented this. I have some spare aluminum plates here that I could mount the oil filter adapter to and attach to the frame, maybe even in the same spot you have it in, just the opposite side. I'll measure some things out this weekend.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

I Installed a remote oil filter behind the bumper. I welded some brackets to the back of the inner bumper. The filter is at the same level as the bumper to protect it from road hazards and the radiator is lower...

View attachment 55300

I like how sturdy that setup appears to be, although that's probably a little more fabricating that I was planning on doing.

Time for me to get out there with some spare rubber lines, run them through a few places and figure out the best way, that I like - as I want this to be as unobrtrusive as possible, to route things!

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

...so what about actual kit recommendations?

I see TransDapt, I see stuff from Derale, there are others as well. This isn't exactly a highly complex part, but some have complained (on-line posts) of the cast aluminum stuff occasionally cracking or not sealing right, etc.

Have you guys had any problems like that?

 

[Duke5A]

...so what about actual kit recommendations?

I see TransDapt, I see stuff from Derale, there are others as well. This isn't exactly a highly complex part, but some have complained (on-line posts) of the cast aluminum stuff occasionally cracking or not sealing right, etc.

Have you guys had any problems like that?

Dad's is fine after years of operation. I still have to plumb mine. Both kits are Derale. I wouldn't be surprised if cracking issues are caused by people over tightening the fittings in the housing.

Come out to the barn for a few hours and we can fab a bracket to put the filter wherever you want. Don't even need your car. Could use mine or Dad's for templates. Mine even has the same trans cooler as your mounted in the same location (got the idea from you). Get a Derale kit and filter beforehand. We have all the stock in both mild steel or even alloy we'd need. It would be an excuse to get together and knock a few beers back.

 

[LSM360]

I have the adapter on the block, and steel braided lines with AN fittings with the filter mounted to the rad support. I also have an inline engine oil cooler. I'm very happy with it. It has been 100% seep/leak free and oil changes are so much easier and cleaner. And this way the filter is away from the heat of the engine block too.

 

[Justwondering]

So as a totally ignorant-of-the-point person here... what is the compelling reason to add lines and brackets to move the oil filter?

My two failed discs in my lower back are screaming at me that this is a good idea I need to consider but would never have thought of myself.

I have no problem getting the filter on the tractors. Just stand beside it and there it is.

But leaning over the trucks means its uncomfortable on my boobs if I come in from the top OR I need the cardboard so I don't get filthy while laying on the ground and going up from the bottom.

I haven't driven the Fifth Avenue or the LeBaron to need to change the oil yet, but since they sit so low this may be a problem for me in the future.

Or did you just want to move the filter because you've done all those fancy upgrade/engine addons/replacements that I'll probably never do.

Just Wondering
JW

 

[80mirada]

Filter access is a big reason for it. For those of us running header instead of exhaust manifold, changing the filter ends in oil on the pipes that you can't clean out completely.......the smoke is awful.

 

[Justwondering]

Which then makes me ask ...
1. What does a header setup look like vs a manifold exhaust setup?
and
2. Why would you want one vs the other?

Just Wondering

JW

 

[kkritsilas]

A header setup can provide some horsepower gains over a manifold setup. How much is dependent on how restrictive the manifold set up is, some of which has to do with is the facotry a real dual exhaust all the way back, the design of the original exhaust manifolds, the design of the headers themselves (headers can be optimized for a particular rpm range), equal lenght/unequal length of the individual header tubes (long tube vs. shorty), diameter vs. length of the header pipes and the collector (where the pipes join together). There are a lot more factors, but they are the basics. And they often sound different, in that headers are thinner wall thickness can resonate where most iron manifolds are not prone to resonating, which some may like one way or the other. I would think that most header systems are true dual exhausts, usually with a crossover (H or X), where most of the factory are not. Headers themselves are lighter, but also not as durable long term (again, thin wall pipes vs. thicker cast iron manifolds, and headers can rust out over time (unless coated or made of stainless steel/titanium). Drawbacks include all of the above, and the issue with space in the engine compartment, space under the car for two sets of exhaust pipes and a crossover, they often hang down lower to the ground, and they do cost more. They generally increase underhood temperatures as well.

Byproduct of all the tubes running around the engine compartment is that access to the oil filter is often compromised, or in some cases, completely blocked (very dependent on header design and the frame layout of the car design). Hence the need for a remote filter setup.

 

[Justwondering]

ahhh that explains the discussions I've read where folks express opinions about the 'sound' and modifying the tailpipes or going to dual pipes.

I always thought it was for looks, not necessarily for sound/performance.

Although, this past week on my way back from west texas I was listening to 70's music somewhere on the west side of Jack county and looked down to see I was doing 105 or so... holy moly!

But the state boys don't patrol out there much so I just backed it on down and set the speed control for the rest of the journey.

I'm sure I 'sounded' fast, though.

JW