-oh that $100 quote is from summit racing-it's much more expensive elsewhere
Summit also sells a paint kit for around $150, which over the epoxy primer base would be an excellent paint job (just add a quality UV clear coat afterwards-there is a time delay after the final coat where it is necessary to wet sand the paint
If you practice first, you can paint it with a cheapo harbor freight paint gun and harbor freight oil-less air compressors- maybe two or three of them daisy chained together & a regulator would get you close to the volume you need to get by. The lesser gun will require more effort to get good results, but we usually ain't {are not} rich enthusiasts in the F body community-except for Rich, he can't help himself. Though he is a poor Rich if you can sort that out.
-on a budget, that is what I would do, is what I plan on doing, will show you how bad/good it will turn out
-just remember, you can always sand away a bad coat {though difficult with epoxy}, and it is ALWAYS easier to add more coats than to try and put a thick coat on and sand the bad back out of it
I will not care that much on my car's underside, and the interior cabin's bare metal we have posted in these two threads- you will easy see runs, and the paint is sometimes too thick
I believe that the rustoleum method takes a bit more work, though less expensive and DIFFERENT material. The benefit Rich says is that an automotive-keying of your car is very easy to repair. With an epoxy base coat, the metal is very well protected as well
Rich did not use clear on his 60's barracuda as far as I know.
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Rich cut out the vent ports from the Volare Road runner today as well as gobbled up the carpet and insulation
I am going to take the floor shifter out & sell it with a Small block (or big block 727), I am using the windshield, BUT
Who needs a roof? who needs some floor pan metal, who needs the rear glass?
Rich or I will show pics of his progress soon this evening.
ccasion14:
