Slant 6 Head Resurfacing
- Thread starter Rifleshooter
- Start date
Rifleshooter
Well-Known Member
What do you mean when you say valve job?
Pretty much anyone you talk to will recommend valves to be ground (re-ground) every 80k miles – if cylinder head is off.
Performing a valve job will sink the valves into cylinder head a few thousandths of an inch, effecting compression ratio negatively (not by much, though).
I don’t have any way to confirm or deny the measurements mentioned earlier
To be for sure, one would need to know where you currently are at (see what needs to be measured and recorded from post #17 to get an exact “before” compression ratio). Even if advertised ratio is 8.1:1 (unconfirmed) – doesn’t mean your engine is at that (more than likely it is less than that).
Once cylinder head has been removed, cleaned and CC’ed then you can better data to guess on how much to shave off of cylinder head.
Again, keep in mind that if you are planning on using 87 octane gasoline, then you don’t want to go over 8.7:1 ratio. I would try to shoot for that 8.7:1 goal, the best you can OR you will have to use a more expensive grade fuel.
MirandaMegaCab, do you know, roughly, how much it would cost to obtain parts for what your picture shows?
Also, is that 2 to 4-bbl adaptor used in that picture?
BudW
Performing a valve job will sink the valves into cylinder head a few thousandths of an inch, effecting compression ratio negatively (not by much, though).
I don’t have any way to confirm or deny the measurements mentioned earlier
But they sound logical.
To be for sure, one would need to know where you currently are at (see what needs to be measured and recorded from post #17 to get an exact “before” compression ratio). Even if advertised ratio is 8.1:1 (unconfirmed) – doesn’t mean your engine is at that (more than likely it is less than that).
Once cylinder head has been removed, cleaned and CC’ed then you can better data to guess on how much to shave off of cylinder head.
Again, keep in mind that if you are planning on using 87 octane gasoline, then you don’t want to go over 8.7:1 ratio. I would try to shoot for that 8.7:1 goal, the best you can OR you will have to use a more expensive grade fuel.
MirandaMegaCab, do you know, roughly, how much it would cost to obtain parts for what your picture shows?
Also, is that 2 to 4-bbl adaptor used in that picture?
BudW
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I've used e-10 in my 9.5 cr 452 from day one with no problems. 520 hp 545 torque. 38 total all in by 2300 rpm mechanical advance.
Rifleshooter
Well-Known Member
I was thinking about buying a new head off rock auto with new valves and springs and just machine that so I don't risk destroying the original head
Actually, it would be a “rebuilt” or “remanufactured” cylinder head.
They haven’t’ made any new /6 cylinder heads (that I know of) for at least 20 years.
The benefit of using their head would be less down time.
Generally, you can perform a valve job several times before anything major needs to be done to cylinder head. Even if valve seats were worn down beyond factory specifications, a competent machine shop can install new valve seats and/or valve guides as well – so a cylinder head can last a person one million miles, or more (with periodic machine work).
In most cases, it is generally cheaper to send your existing cylinder head to get a valve job (and shaved to exact thickness specified) locally, than to get an exchange (rebuilt or reman) cylinder head.
The down side is more time car is not drivable.
If your existing cylinder head is cracked or warped beyond factory specifications – then I would recommend reusing existing cylinder head.
If your head is missing, warped or cracked, then the exchange head may be the better buy.
Also be sure to check on the core charge and shipping (both ways). Those /6 iron heads are not cheap to ship (both ways).
BudW
They haven’t’ made any new /6 cylinder heads (that I know of) for at least 20 years.
The benefit of using their head would be less down time.
Generally, you can perform a valve job several times before anything major needs to be done to cylinder head. Even if valve seats were worn down beyond factory specifications, a competent machine shop can install new valve seats and/or valve guides as well – so a cylinder head can last a person one million miles, or more (with periodic machine work).
In most cases, it is generally cheaper to send your existing cylinder head to get a valve job (and shaved to exact thickness specified) locally, than to get an exchange (rebuilt or reman) cylinder head.
The down side is more time car is not drivable.
If your existing cylinder head is cracked or warped beyond factory specifications – then I would recommend reusing existing cylinder head.
If your head is missing, warped or cracked, then the exchange head may be the better buy.
Also be sure to check on the core charge and shipping (both ways). Those /6 iron heads are not cheap to ship (both ways).
BudW
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
That's a www.torqstorm.com kit that sells for $2800. It uses an adapter but I'm not sure if it's a single or two barrel to four barrel.
A supercharger is an easy bolt on.
No need for engine to be disassembled or rear gears changed just yet.
A supercharger is an easy bolt on.
No need for engine to be disassembled or rear gears changed just yet.
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
RifleShooter, why do you want to change the head gasket and why get a new head?
Rifleshooter
Well-Known Member
I need to
change the head gasket because it's leaking coolant due to a 37 year old gasket that just dry rotted, while I have the head off might as well get it resurfaced and so on
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Ahh gotcha
The supercharger will help with that blown head gasket . . . by discharging the excess pressure out the side.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Yep and a blower build needs forged pistons or your going to have few more parts flying out. Hahaha
But it would be COOL.
But it would be COOL.
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
That's why they call them "blowers"
Cause you're always blowing shit up!
Nah, in all honesty a stock engine will do fine with 5PSI of boost. The increased torque and the OPs hiway gears might just help with engine longevity. No need to rev a supercharged engine very high. And no rear end gear swap will not only provide some low cruise RPMs but will make for some "unlimited top end" speeds. Lol
The OP can always and easily swap the supercharger kit to another /6 or transfer the kit to any other engine by ordering the main bracket and fabbing up some small components.
It sure is easy to spend other people's money!! Lol
Cause you're always blowing shit up!
Nah, in all honesty a stock engine will do fine with 5PSI of boost. The increased torque and the OPs hiway gears might just help with engine longevity. No need to rev a supercharged engine very high. And no rear end gear swap will not only provide some low cruise RPMs but will make for some "unlimited top end" speeds. Lol
The OP can always and easily swap the supercharger kit to another /6 or transfer the kit to any other engine by ordering the main bracket and fabbing up some small components.
It sure is easy to spend other people's money!! Lol
And fun.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
If I'm going boost something I'm going to BOOST IT!
I have a .030 over 289 SBF that has a Boss block ,forged Ford 289 crank , long H beam rods, and the most beautiful costom 10 to 1 pistons I've ever seen plus 200 c.f. RHS aluminum heads. 455 :hp and 445 of tourqe from 293 cid. NA!
The motor was built for my 64 Fairlane with the intention of boost and e-85, but cost of boost it big time and the project will probably run NA for some time, we were planning on Drag week with the old Fairlane.
On a side note, every thing I've built has come up .03 to .04 short of my calcluations on the box.!!!!
So yes I like boost! But I'm not going for 5 lbs more like 25.
I have a .030 over 289 SBF that has a Boss block ,forged Ford 289 crank , long H beam rods, and the most beautiful costom 10 to 1 pistons I've ever seen plus 200 c.f. RHS aluminum heads. 455 :hp and 445 of tourqe from 293 cid. NA!
The motor was built for my 64 Fairlane with the intention of boost and e-85, but cost of boost it big time and the project will probably run NA for some time, we were planning on Drag week with the old Fairlane.
On a side note, every thing I've built has come up .03 to .04 short of my calcluations on the box.!!!!
So yes I like boost! But I'm not going for 5 lbs more like 25.
