Slant six to 318

BudW

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A lot of funny things happen on the assembly line.
The paint markings are mostly used to:
A keep the ring and pinion gear sets together (matched).
B for measurements for correct shim(s) to be installed
C Fasteners are tested to be a correct torque.
D Post-inspection checks or notes.

The part of pinion gear that is closest to the axle center-line is measured to determine the distance of that edge to the axle center-line. Typically one person measures that distance and makes a mark. The next person in line will take a shim and a tool block (that is thickness of the bearing) and then installs it. The next person measures again and if correct, will move to next person to get rear pinion bearing pressed into place or will send that group of parts back to person number one (or to person two, or …).

Post assembly, but before differential is shipped to assembly plant, there will be several inspections with their own paint marks, saying “it is good”.

On the repair side, the same measurements are made when installing a new ring/pinion gear set, but tech will make notes in his head or pen/paper, make the correct calculations and install the correct shim(s). If not making any shortcuts, the tech will retest that measurements before going onto the next step.

I have seen maybe 30 different paint marks at different locations on a differential – back when I was at a dealership.

Now at the assembly plant, some parts can/will run out (strikes, ships sink, someone forgot to order, …) and I have seen them install what they have to keep the line from stopping, even if is a more expensive part.
On the new car purchasing area, this could have been a special order car, or had a trailer towing package installed. Usually the body tag might mention this (sometimes).

I've heard of a couple of Fifth Ave's being used for US senator security that might have gotten an high-end AHB via other means.

I don't think a person will find out what all those markings mean and really, It might not make a difference.

Here are some pictures of a NOS block and there are paint marks in all kinds of areas. I suspect the letters on side of block might be bore size – but honestly, I don't care (not going to look it up). All of these marks came from the factory.


20160930_095909.jpg

20160930_095943.jpg

Each bolt/nut has a dab of paint on it (plus at a number of other areas).
New 318 engine, rear A.jpg

Pay no attention to the white arrow.

Yes, the numbers (or paint marks) are important to the workers who build it - but no, they are not important (or useful) after it leaves the assembly plant.

BudW
 

SlantSixSullivan

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A lot of funny things happen on the assembly line.
The paint markings are mostly used to:
A keep the ring and pinion gear sets together (matched).
B for measurements for correct shim(s) to be installed
C Fasteners are tested to be a correct torque.
D Post-inspection checks or notes.

The part of pinion gear that is closest to the axle center-line is measured to determine the distance of that edge to the axle center-line. Typically one person measures that distance and makes a mark. The next person in line will take a shim and a tool block (that is thickness of the bearing) and then installs it. The next person measures again and if correct, will move to next person to get rear pinion bearing pressed into place or will send that group of parts back to person number one (or to person two, or …).

Post assembly, but before differential is shipped to assembly plant, there will be several inspections with their own paint marks, saying “it is good”.

On the repair side, the same measurements are made when installing a new ring/pinion gear set, but tech will make notes in his head or pen/paper, make the correct calculations and install the correct shim(s). If not making any shortcuts, the tech will retest that measurements before going onto the next step.

I have seen maybe 30 different paint marks at different locations on a differential – back when I was at a dealership.

Now at the assembly plant, some parts can/will run out (strikes, ships sink, someone forgot to order, …) and I have seen them install what they have to keep the line from stopping, even if is a more expensive part.
On the new car purchasing area, this could have been a special order car, or had a trailer towing package installed. Usually the body tag might mention this (sometimes).

I've heard of a couple of Fifth Ave's being used for US senator security that might have gotten an high-end AHB via other means.

I don't think a person will find out what all those markings mean and really, It might not make a difference.

Here are some pictures of a NOS block and there are paint marks in all kinds of areas. I suspect the letters on side of block might be bore size – but honestly, I don't care (not going to look it up). All of these marks came from the factory.


View attachment 41876
View attachment 41877
Each bolt/nut has a dab of paint on it (plus at a number of other areas).
View attachment 41878
Pay no attention to the white arrow.

Yes, the numbers (or paint marks) are important to the workers who build it - but no, they are not important (or useful) after it leaves the assembly plant.

BudW

Thanks, Bud. I've never had so much information about paint in front of me before.
 

AJ/FormS

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Be advised;
>that there are more than ONE cover shape for 7.25s; The newer 7.25s look a lot like 8.25s. Since you have the cover off, you can just measure yours;
but from where I'm sitting,the one in post 38 looks an awful lot like the 7.25 that was in my 92 Dakota..

>Furthermore;
not all 998s came with the wide-ratio, 2.74-1.54-1.00 gears, nor did all 998s come with loc-ups.
Either way; 2.20 x 2.74= a decidedly un-blistering 6.02 starter gear, so I'd be ordering a custom hi-stall. This is sorta like starting in first gear with 2.45s and a regular A904,(2.45-1.45-1.00).
A good starter gear for a 360 with a 2200 stall is at least 8. A performance starter gear might be closer to 9 or even 10
By 2800, with a 360,your starter can drop into the range of 7/8
But even a 360 is gonna complain about a 6.02 starter gear; getting a timing curve to work with that, could be tricky.I have not run this combo, so Ima speculating.
The lowest I have run was a 2.45 x2.76=6.76, with a fresh 8/1 318 and a 2800. It took WOT from a standing start with 10* advance no problem. Which was actually kindof cool with a Manual Shift, cuz I would run it up into Drive, just as fast as it would take it without detonating, while listening to the Thermoquad moan for like 3 minutes from zero to 65 mph. Ok 3 minutes is a gross exaggeration, but you get the idea; it was decidedly un-fast, running like that. I was into the TQ-moan, stuck at 2800 on the tach, for the whole run.
 
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Mikes5thAve

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Be advised;
>that there are more than ONE cover shape for 7.25s; The newer 7.25s look a lot like 8.25s. Since you have the cover off, you can just measure yours;
but from where I'm sitting,the one in post 38 looks an awful lot like the 7.25 that was in my 92 Dakota..

>Furthermore;
not all 998s came with the wide-ratio, 2.74-1.54-1.00 gears, nor did all 998s come with loc-ups.

It looks like an m body 8 1/4 to me. The 7 1/4 cars had were still more octagonal covers in those years. Unless It was changed out at some point.
The part number for the transmission matches up with the year and model so it's the newer gear set and lock up. That's all you could get for a 998/999 in a car in those later years.
 

volaredon

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I've got a slant six in my 1980 Diplomat coupe and I am looking at buying a low mile (29,000) 318/904 combo to swap in it.

A few concerns I have are as follows:

It is my daily driver and cannot be down for much longer than a weekend.

Is my current driveshaft going to work with this swap?

Any linkage differences between a slant 904 versus small block 904?

I have the Schumacher mounts to convert the K frame, so no issue there.

Is it possible to get this done in a couple days, provided there are no unexpected catastrophes? I believe it is a lean burn engine, which can be done away with later. Also, I am aware that an exhaust system is necessary to drive the car so I will schedule an appointment to deal with that once I have the engine in.
76 318 should not be lean burn. Only a few big blocks that year. 77 some 318# had it.but with the engine outa distributor and carb would be all that you'd need to change out to be rid of lean burn, your original car doesn't have it.
 
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