Swapping from Lean Burn to the Mopar Electronic Ignition....

[Lightning II]

So, I've got the Lean Burn harness and ECU removed from the air cleaner lid.

I've got the Orange box ECU mounted temporarily.

Haven't installed the distributor yet, I'm planning on using the old one just to get it running again temporarily.

I've read the wiring instructions, but the one thing I'm having trouble with is where to source the "Start" wire in the instructions from.

Should I use this Pink wire that originally went to the Lean Burn ECU? On the FSM wiring schematic it eventually went to the starter relay iirc.

Here's more or less where I plan to stick the coil.
(I had the Alternator Harness and the Right-Front Lighting Harness ziptied off so I could keep track if I kept unwinding the tape around the whole harness as I tracked things down)

Is there anything else I'm missing as I de-Lean Burn'd the engine?

 

[SRTMirada]

Once you get the proper distributor installed, you'll need a source for ported vacuum. If you're keeping your lean burn carburetor then this might be the hardest part of the job.

 

[Lightning II]

Once you get the proper distributor installed, you'll need a source for ported vacuum. If you're keeping your lean burn carburetor then this might be the hardest part of the job.

I wound up getting a Carter BBD knockoff for now. I still have the Thermoquad I bought a couple years ago that I can put on later.
The carb I have has a vacuum source that I just need to get a new line for.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

Start should be a wire at the starter relay. If it's the same as the pink one go for it.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

So, I've got the Lean Burn harness and ECU removed from the air cleaner lid.

I've got the Orange box ECU mounted temporarily.

Haven't installed the distributor yet, I'm planning on using the old one just to get it running again temporarily.

I've read the wiring instructions, but the one thing I'm having trouble with is where to source the "Start" wire in the instructions from....

Alright...so there are at least three separate MP instructions for their kit, I've attached the latest one I have here, that being what appears to be a 2004 release.

Take a look through these...not sure if they match what you have?

 

[Lightning II]

They do not match what I have, but that is what I needed!

Between that and the FSM I think I should be set.

Any suggestions on how to mount the ECU better? Right now I have it using one of the holes that the Voltage Regulator was using before. I’ve cleaned off all the paint that that was around it to make sure it was grounding Ok. ….the other hole is currently zip-tied to a stud. Currently.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

Why did you remove the voltage regulator? Unless you've changed to an alternator with it built in its still needed.
I have my ecu mounted on the inner fender.
To clarify what I said in the last post if you pull the plug on the starter relay it should say what each connector is for. ballast is one of them. There should also be one for start. It's whatever only has power when the key is turned to stsrt. According to the 88 manual that pink wire goes to the alternator and is something different.

 

[Lightning II]

Why did you remove the voltage regulator? Unless you've changed to an alternator with it built in its still needed.

When I got to removing parts I got a touch carried away. I figured I would still need it so I have not clipped any wires nor did I throw it away. I can remount it when I get home after work.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

Yup, you absolutely need to keep the V-regulator, so just leave that up on the firewall.

The ECU is typically positioned on the inner fender, basically just up ahead of the windshield washer reserviour.

I've attached a photo...it's the CHROME thing in the bottom part of the pic with the tell-tale plug connector.

 

[DCAspen]

Real clean looking engine compartment

 

[Aspen500]

There will be 2 square threaded nuts in the right inner fender. That's where the ECU bolts go.

On the voltage regulator. Make sure it has a good ground. It grounds through the bolts. Without the ground, the charging system won't work.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

Real clean looking engine compartment

Ahh, but that's only because the other half the plumbing was still missing at that stage! lol (thanks though)

I have some cleaning to do on the coupe before the W2 stroker motor goes in over the winter, so I'll be right back to a "nice and clean" looking engine bay.

 

[Lightning II]

I really appreciate the advice and the pictures for this thing. I feel pretty underwhelmed when looking at what I currently have. Well, it’s a work in progress.

 

[Justwondering]

Yup, you absolutely need to keep the V-regulator, so just leave that up on the firewall.

The ECU is typically positioned on the inner fender, basically just up ahead of the windshield washer reserviour.

I've attached a photo...it's the CHROME thing in the bottom part of the pic with the tell-tale plug connector.

View attachment 48764

Is is weird that I really like these pics of cleaned up engine bays?
No rat damage, no obvious rust, and plastic that isn't super brittle...

ahhhhh ...pure bliss.

JW

 

[Ele115]

I cut the bottom of a less than perfect washer tank out and mounted my ECU where the washer tank goes. The tank covers it up and the Lean Burn is there for looks. My car does not go out in bad weather. I don't have a need for wipers or washer so this wouldn't fly for a lot of you.

 

[Duke5A]

I wish I would have known. I've got an entire ignition kit I could have given you. I think I have a few distributors laying around too.

 

[Miradaman]

Simplest way to swap it is go to a salvage yard, get the engine harness off a model with the 5 pin ignition box. Get the vacuum advance distributor as well. Get a new ignition box, and a new resistor for the firewall. Everything should plug in. Just unplug the lean burn engine harness, and plug in the other. Make sure that your rotor button on the new distributor is pointed at your number 1 cylinder, and the piston is at TDC. Put new distributor in and snug the clamp. Hook the two resistor wires to the new resistor. Plug in the new box to the five pin plug. When you set the timing, don't forget to unplug the vacuum line off the distributor.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

For the 80s cars there's nothing to grab a factory harness from. The plug is different then the older ones and there's no wiring for the ballast resistor to the stsrter relay so there's some wiring to be done no matter what you do.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

For the 80s cars there's nothing to grab a factory harness from. The plug is different then the older ones and there's no wiring for the ballast resistor to the stsrter relay so there's some wiring to be done no matter what you do.

Ahh, but that depends which '80's car you've got and which one you can start off with.

Case in point: my '80 LeBaron coupe parts car was a non-LB vehicle, pure and simple ECU. That made for a perfect 'donor' because the remainder of the engine bay harness was literally a plug-in (not quite PnP, but close enough) to my '80 Diplomat coupe harness.

The '81 Diplomat coupe I have in my garage is a /6 car and that's an ECU car as well, albeit the wiring is a little different, so not quite as simple as a V8 to V8 swap.

I do agree though that the later '80's cars, perhaps as early as '82 and onwards, are probably much more of a challenge!

 

[Lightning II]

I wish I would have known. I've got an entire ignition kit I could have given you. I think I have a few distributors laying around too.

I appreciate the thought, but I've had this kit for a couple years now. It'll hold me over until I get the truck back on the road once the Diplomat is more reliable.

EDIT: I've located the wires that I was looking for. Tomorrow, if I'm not freezing my butt off, and if I have decent daylight after I get off work I'll get the new wiring done. If not tomorrow, then Saturday.