What is this?

[Bruceynz]

Hi Guys

I just hauled home a rear end, its suppose to be a 8.25", it has a tag on it that says 3.21 but what kind of drums has it got on it, do you need to undo that thing on the end to get the drum off and where is the oil bung/plug in the back on the cover?

ok spun drum 10 times and the input shaft turn about 16.2 turns x 2 / 10 = 3.24 so thats a start, spring perches look to be a little under 45inch and flange to flange is a bit hard to measure but it looks about 54".

Thanks
Bruce

 

[80mirada]

Might be a 70 B-body 8.25

 

[Bruceynz]

Ok I double checked the perch centres, they are 44.5", took some more photos too. How do you get the drum off, do you need to undo that centre thing?

 

[kkritsilas]

look behind the drum brakes (from the center section towards the drum backing plate). There may be either an opening or a rubber plug near the bottom of the drum. If there is a rubber plug, remove it. you will see a toothed wheel edge on. You need to turn that wheel (I think towards the top) as far as it will go. This is the adjuster for the parking brake. Then go to the front of the drums, and tap them all over. and then try to pull them off (straight out). It may take some pretty serious hitting with a hammer, or soaking overnight (near the bolts and center) with penetrating oil, and then retry the next morning.

Depending on the unit, the pads may be holding the drums on. The toothed wheel adjusts the parking brake to take up any slack that the brake shoes add as they wear down. If it is frozen/rusted, or if there is serious rust build up inside the drum it will take a lot of effort (whacking with a hammer, swearing, etc.) before the drums come off. You should leave the "center thing" (the end of the axle) alone.

 

[Dr Lebaron]

 

[80mirada]

What you are seeing is the end of the axel. They were made by a different process than later 8.25" rears

 

[80mirada]

No need for a hub puller, all 8.25s use one piece axles. They were made from oversized blanks, the pattern on the end looks like drive holes for a very old rotary broach

 

[Grandmas84]

Thats definitely a B body 8.25. I heard somewhere that the earlier B body 8.75s and 8.25s had weird drums that need a special tool to remove.

 

[Bruceynz]

ok got the drums off, they welded to the centres with rust, some big screw drives and a huge twang and they were off

Whats the deal with no oil filler hole on the back on the diff head cover?

 

[slant6billy]

About the only thing I dig about Honda brakes- Jacking bolt holes to push off the drum or the disk

Oh- also it has a drain plug on the transmission too

 

[80mirada]

8.25s have always been c-clip axles. Chrysler went away from the separate hub setup in 65 I think. Jeep Grand Cherokee, (and maybe early Liberty) rear disks are a nice upgrade from the original drums, if legal to swap non stock brakes on. I believe there is a threaded fill plug in the center section casting, some even have drain plugs.

 

[Bruceynz]

Ok we are in business now, rear end is getting sand blasted, the vent is being blocked off as well as the brake lines, they are going to then under coat it in black under coat ready for me to top coat. What color, gloss black is so boring, I am thinking hammerite, its hard and looks interesting. Any good ideas?

 

[80mirada]

That might be cool. Otherwise go with an accent color you already have, Chrysler Turquoise, or may be Cast Iron Gray

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

I thought it was a B-Body 8.25 also,
then I saw the spring perch on the left side.
That large hole was only on the ISO pad setup.
a B-Body has a small hole in the center of the perch.

I have one that looks exactly like that 8.25 from a late 60s B-Body,
and it has the small hole.

Now someone may have welded the correct M,F or J perches on them,
which i have done in the past.

Is that large center hole on both sides?

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

The fill hole is on the upper passenger side of the gear box.
You can put the later 8.25 cover on it with the rubber plug,
because that tapped plug can be a real PITA to get out.
and its easier to fill with gear oil from the back.

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

You can see in this pic that its the same rear end but doesnt have the large center holes.
It is from a B-Body and can be used, but to retain the factory ISO setup the center hole has to be enlarged or use B-Body shock mounts, which many have done with the 8 3/4.
If you have that large center hole already there, you wont have to do anything but install it in you're car.

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

Pull the cover off and inspect the gears.
Some dumbass welded the spider gears on this,
and welded the C-Clips.
I had to cut the whole carrier out of the case,
because the axles couldnt be pulled out.
It destroyed the axle ends from the weld.

Country Boy Posi.

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

Now I need axles for a B-Body 8.25 to use this rear end.
I have a ring and pinion and sure grip and no axles.

If anyone is reading this that knows where to get after market B-Body 8.25 axles,
or has a set of good axles, Please PM me.

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

8.25s have always been c-clip axles. Chrysler went away from the separate hub setup in 65 I think. Jeep Grand Cherokee, (and maybe early Liberty) rear disks are a nice upgrade from the original drums, if legal to swap non stock brakes on. I believe there is a threaded fill plug in the center section casting, some even have drain plugs.

Your right, 64 was the last year that needed that puller.
I had a 64 New Yorker that needed that hub puller,
Then I had a 65 Coronet that did not need it.

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

Ok I double checked the perch centres, they are 44.5", took some more photos too. How do you get the drum off, do you need to undo that centre thing?

Those 3.21s are great gears, Not too high or low.
There my 2nd choice to 3.23s