what oil type?

M Body General Discussion

  1. kingoftooland

    kingoftooland Active Member

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    ok I got a 84 5th ave thats of corse has the 318 that's a flat tappet cam motor iam curious what kind/brand oil everyone is using in their motors I use it as a daily atm I do know I got to use a oil that's zddp enhanced or a additive added to a oil like todays cars I got 5 qts of oriley's full synthethic high milage oil and a lucas zddp additive in it now but I notice it leaks MORE now than before I useto use brad penn I got from mancini racing herein mi but was looking for a cheaper alternative
     
  2. Camtron

    Camtron Well-Known Member

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    I bounce between mobile1 10w30 and royal purple 10w30. I have a roller block, I don’t add anything to it for “extra protection”. I don’t have any leaks, I don’t have any knocks, I don’t have to wait for my lifters to pump up when it’s below freezing, works well.
    As far as the leak, fixing whatever is leaking is always best bet, using a heavier weight oil will slow it down a little bit till you can fix it.
     
  3. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    The one AND ONLY downside to synthetic oil is, it can "enhance" existing leaks. I've sworn by synthetic since the early '90's.
     
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  4. volare 77

    volare 77 Well-Known Member

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    I have been using the lucas hot rod and classic motor oil.
     
  5. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Use a good brand and maybe semi synthetic. Valvoline Durablend was always my goto. Add a bottle of ZDDP additive and use a good filter. Wix or Mobile 1 are what I typically run.

    I like straight synthetic, but it just isn't a good idea on an already leaky motor.

    I'm about 10 minutes from Clinton township.
     
  6. Magnum Aspen

    Magnum Aspen Member

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    I use Amsoil Z rod oil in the appropriate viscosity grade. I do not drive the car alot. The Z rod oil has the ZDDP and an extra additive to prevent corrosion while the engine is not running. Amsoil also allows for once a year oil changes given my driving habits. And they have a distribution center in Vegas so I can get it quickly where I live.
     
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  7. Darth-Car

    Darth-Car Well-Known Member

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    Amzoil 0w30 Signature Series.

    Once you run the Amzoil Pure Synthetic, you will not return to any of the imitators.
     
  8. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    Looks like an ad for Amsoil.
     
  9. kkritsilas

    kkritsilas Well-Known Member

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    I don't want to get into oil brands. I would suggest though, that you stick to the oil viscosity range that the factory recommends. I don't know for sure, but I sincerely doubt that 0W30 was a factory recommendation. My two Js are asking for 10W30 or 10W40.
     
  10. Opticon77

    Opticon77 Well-Known Member

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  11. ch1ll

    ch1ll Active Member

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    Amsoil recommended grade oil for your car. your local distributor or one call to the corporate office will let you know which grade to use.

    best oil money can buy.
     
  12. ch1ll

    ch1ll Active Member

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    synthetics are not conventional oil and the grades are different between the two.
     
  13. kkritsilas

    kkritsilas Well-Known Member

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    No, they are not.

    The viscosity testing is set by the SAE. There is no difference between a conventional oil rated SN, and a full synthetic rated SN. The 10W30 is the same viscosity whether it is synthetic or conventional. Synthetic is actually slipperier, for want of a better word, than conventional oil. However all that being said, you use the grade specified by the factory. When both synthetic and conventional oil were being used, there was NO factory manual that ever suggested that a different viscosity oil be used when using synthetic vs. conventional.The factory determines what grade to use, not the oil manufacturer or distributor. The factory designs engine tolerances and clearances, not Amsoil. Redline, or any other oil manufacturer or distributor. When the factory says use 10W30, 5W20, or 10W40, use what they say. We can change those tolerances by rebuilding with tighter or looser tolerances, and you builder should recommend a grade or a brand. that is with full knowledge of what those tolerances are.

    Our LA engines were built with tolerances designed for use with 10W30, or 10W40. The Magnums were built with tighter tolerances, so probably use a 5W30. However, using a 0W20 in an LA is taking an unacceptable risk in my mind, not even considering that the tolerances on our older engines have opened up even further.
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2019
  14. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    I've got some Valvoline 50W that should be great for gas mileage.
     
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  15. picklesgarage

    picklesgarage Active Member

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    right now just running a mopar 090 filter and some i think penzoil 5w30. ill change to something else if there is a need.
     
  16. Opticon77

    Opticon77 Well-Known Member

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    "Lubricious" is always a fun one.

    Lubricity - Wikipedia
     
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  17. kkritsilas

    kkritsilas Well-Known Member

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    OK, synthetic is more lubricious. It also doesn't oxidize as quickly, resists contamination better, and the base oil doesn't change viscosity as much as conventional (less refined dinosaur juice). Despite the names "synthetic", synthetic oil is still mostly made from petroleum.
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2019
  18. ch1ll

    ch1ll Active Member

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    maybe I should have used a better choice of words and you are right viscosity testing is uniform.
    but that does not negate the fact that has been proven by independent lab and real life testing that Amsoil out performs all other oils on the market, synthetic or conventional through out is useful life. these are the grade oils that they manufacture and recommend for your specific vehicle. I was a skeptic, I had it tested by an independent lab twice to my oil change at 18,000 miles. the same lab that tests fleet vehicle oil used by the big players in the trucking industry. I would not even consider using another brand of oil until it matched up or was proven superior in an independent test.

    use what ever oil you like, but I suggest you look deep into the Amsoil story and try to prove what they are saying is wrong. use it, have it tested, you will be surprised, I was.

    I'm flying down the road in a 300,000 mile 11 year old Korean 1.4 litre POS I bought new. its first oil change was synthetic, at 20,000 miles I started using Amsoil only, 15,000 mi change intervals. it burns absolutely no oil and gets the same gas mileage since day one. 15,000 miles 5 quarts drain out, 5 quarts new go in and a new oil filter.
     
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  19. Darth-Car

    Darth-Car Well-Known Member

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    I was an Amsoil skeptic for years. I could not justify the price, until I did the math of changing oil every 3k verses every 20k. The Amsoil just made more dollars, and cents. :)

    I have used the stuff in everything from large Dodge, and Ford trucks to K cars, and PT Cruisers for the last 30 years.

    On new engines it has always been fantastic, and I have never had a oil loss, or burning issue for my 20k oil changes. I have multiple "Amsoil saved my engine" stories from personal experience I can tell to those who wish to learn. There will always be those with closed minds, and that is their privilege too. Like others have stated I do know the real facts.

    Oh, and for those who say you can not run 0w30 in our engines I have it from an Amsoil, petroleum engineer, "This grade oil can be used in any standard, unmodified engine with no problems." Aside from the multi-displacement HEMI's it's all I have ever run with no problems.
     
  20. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    I'm sorry guys, I just can't take Amsoil seriously. If it was some wonder juice then why don't OEM recommend it? If they knew you were running 15k oil change intervals they'd yank your power train warranty.

    ...and running a 0 weight in a worn motor that calls for 10 when new?? No freaking way.