I'll probably be swapping out the window motor this weekend and was wondering, can the old motor be removed without propping up the window with a block or is it currently held up by the window motor gear? If I need a block, how tall? I'm swapping with a Dorman motor for now and will probably rebuild the old motor using one of the methods I read about in the For C or B Bodies only link. Thanks.
Window Motor Swap
- Thread starter dm330
- Start date
I wrote something about the window motor rebuilt somewhere here in the forum.
In my lebaron the window was pretty much fixed in place with no support, but I suggest to take a short maybe 10inches 1x2 or or 1x1 just through some upper hole of the door to block the window from dropping as a precautionary measure.
In my lebaron the window was pretty much fixed in place with no support, but I suggest to take a short maybe 10inches 1x2 or or 1x1 just through some upper hole of the door to block the window from dropping as a precautionary measure.
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
You can tie the window in place with a piece of wire looped through the door
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
The window moves on its own without the motor but doesn't come crashing down. I've also used the method of sticking a piece of wood through one of the holes in the door to jam it in an out of the way position.
It's simple to replace gear part if that's your problem. You're better off saving some time and money and going straight to that if you're going to do it anyway and skip the new motor.
It's simple to replace gear part if that's your problem. You're better off saving some time and money and going straight to that if you're going to do it anyway and skip the new motor.
LSM360
Well-Known Member
You can also take two long pieces of duct tape to hold window up. Have them on at least six inches on the outside and wrap over the top of the door and six inches on the inside too. I've done this and tightened the window guides all the way in for some insurance. Otherwise yes a stick and I can measure when I get home if you like.
P.S. Make sure you have the back corner of window all the way up into the groove. I made the mistake of not making sure that back corner was up and back into the groove.
P.S. Make sure you have the back corner of window all the way up into the groove. I made the mistake of not making sure that back corner was up and back into the groove.
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Thanks guys. I already bought the new motor just as a quick swap fix, then try out the rebuild myself when I have a little time when the weather starts to cool. I remember finding a link her to one of the other For Bodies only sites with a few different methods of rebuild, using nuts or rubber hose trimmings in place of the nylon bushings in the original motors.
LSM360
Well-Known Member
A lot of the gear kits come with the bushings and a pack of grease so no need to worry about making your own. Brake Cleaner comes in handy when cleaning out the old grease and gear pieces from metal motor housing.
Thanks, that's the one. Bookmarked it this time. All 4 windows operate differently; front driver's window slips on the way down, front passenger moves very slowly and requires help going up, rear passenger window works fine, rear diver's window does nothing.
I'm having it hauled over tomorrow to have the exhaust replaced and get rid of the towing hitch before my mechanic gets it to finish the work up, but the rest of the windows may be a fall or winter project at the storage unit.
GregG48213
Well-Known Member
This reminds me of an issue I had with my '88 Diplomat: the right rear door power window would only open about a half an inch. I believe the window was jammed in the rear track with the weather strip falling apart. The car was over ten years old, and the other three windows worked okay; so I never fixed it.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
They are also prone to the wires breaking between the door and car.
MoparDan
Well-Known Member
Reminds me of my '87 Diplomat when I bought it: the front passenger window moved slowly and slipped a few times on the way down, the rear passenger window worked perfectly, while both left windows didn't work at all and were slightly lowered, and the sunroof worked but was glued shut.
Glued shut, did they say why lol? My 2013 200 had a moonroof and I rarely used it. I found I really didn't enjoy it, although I have enjoyed the full top down of a convertible. If there's enough decent weather whenever I get the car back I'll dig into the windows, but I have a feeling it'll be months away still. It's been at an exhaust shop for 2 weeks and either they or my mechanic who's had it for over 2 years will finish the rest. Hoping I get to drive that car before WW3 or a total economic collapse takes place.
MoparDan
Well-Known Member
It was glued shut because there was no weather stripping on the glass, I found it once I cut the glue off and opened it, it was in the back part, I duck taped it back on-it didn't look that great but it worked! I always liked sunroofs, my other car has one and I usually have it open
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Aspen500
Well-Known Member
In my years as an auto tech, found the majority of leaking sun/moon roofs had the drain tubes plugged with dirt and other debris. Like having clogged downspouts on house gutters. Of course if the seals are missing......
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
Good luck. No one makes them for these cars. You'd have to come up with a universal aftermarket solution.
