Advice On My 80 Volare Duster

AJ/FormS

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The 2bbl won't do much below the torque peak, which might translate to as high as 27mph, depending on your gears and tune. That big single is not that bad!
I've had ripper slantys with single barrels, and I've had slanty dogs with 2bbls...
Gears can make a dog into a ripper, and vice-versa..
 

Rifleshooter

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The 2bbl won't do much below the torque peak, which might translate to as high as 27mph, depending on your gears and tune. That big single is not that bad!
I've had ripper slantys with single barrels, and I've had slanty dogs with 2bbls...
Gears can make a dog into a ripper, and vice-versa..
Fair enough, I still want to see if I'm satisfied with just the 2bbl, probably won't be, and in the meantime I'll keep looking for the appropriate parts to make it better if need be
 

Rifleshooter

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What are the chances of my 7.25 rear having a 2.2 or 2.4 gear vs the 2.76 or 3.23? Because I have no clue what I have currently and don't really want to take the diff cover off until I have something to replace it due to all the metal flakes and what not in the diff currently.
 

BudW

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According to the ’80 Volare sales ad (link on post # 35). It says for /6 with manual transmission, 3.2 is standard and 2.9 is optional.

According to my ’79 parts book (I don’t have an ’80 or ’81 (car) parts book, yet), the available gear ratios available are 3.2, 2.7 and 2.4.

Manual transmission cars generally get a larger number (or referred to a lower gear) than automatic transmission cars do. That said, I doubt you have the 2.4 ratio.
A 3.2 or 2.9 would be my guess.

According to my ’82 parts book (M and J bodies), the ratio options were 2.9, 2.7 and 2.2.


The transmission in the eBay ad uses a Trunnion for front propeller shaft – which bolts to a stationary transmission yoke.
trunion joint.PNG

64 Trans Yoke.jpg


’66 and newer transmissions use a more conventional transmission slip yoke and universal joint. There is a very good reason why Chrysler got away from the trunnion joints (hard to work on, limited movement, hard to find, expensive, etc.) in favor by the far better design of the slip yoke design.
Universal joint.PNG


To modify your propeller shaft to a trunnion joint would be a "downgrade".

Parts are readily available to upgrade this transmission to use the ’66 and newer slip yokes, but those parts do increase the price of unit and transmission will need to be dissembled for output shaft to be replaced. Just look for A or F body output shaft and tailhousing.

Note: I had an identical transmission to that eBay ad, that I sold not long ago, that I have pictures to at [FOR SALE] - '64 or 65 A-body 4-speed 833 transmission
With a different tailhousing and output shaft, it would work fine.

I’m not an expert on this – but I thought only the A833’s cars got the floor hump?
Note: I've only had two manual vehicles, my '97 3/4 ton pickup and '87 Daytona Shelby.
BudW
 

Rifleshooter

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Ok thank you both. I will check my gear ratio via the jack and spin tactic. Let's see what I have, wish me luck
 

Rifleshooter

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So here's a question, I have come to notice from looking at pictures online of the super six, some of the air cleaners have a larger hose comming from the nose of the air cleaner base and some dont. Is there any difference in performance between having that hose installed or not?
 

BudW

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A picture would be helpful.

You have a paper hose for outside air (fender by battery), the breather hose (connects breather on valve cover to base), in some cases an aspirator hose (fits exhaust aspirator hose to base), and various vacuum hoses.

I’m not aware of any paper hose differences (except for police variants).
BudW


Edit: the paper (outside air) hose will most cars, helps. It lets engine use non-heated underhood air.
Also have you ever stuck your hand outside a car window when moving at speed?
The air pressure will lean the engine out a bit and will give a natural boost in airflow which helps on fuel mileage and highway performance.

If you only putter around in town and rarely get over 30 MPH - having the hose connected might not do much for you.

I’ve heard reports of people getting 1-2 more MPG with hose on vs. off.
 
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AJ/FormS

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Ok well if you notice, that air filter house, if it has the heat stove hooked up, also has a Therm-actor flapper valve on it. And it has an air sampler in the box too. The engineering behind all those pieces is to mix the hot air that is coming across the hot exhaust manifold, with the fresh cold air coming up that paper tube, and deliver air to that carb that is of a constant temperature. And the thinking behind that is to better control the Air Fuel Ratio.
Of course almost right after start-up this warmed up air helps to eliminate carburetor icing. And icing is a particularly annoying thing to experience.
 

Rifleshooter

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Anybody know of a good and easy way to unbolt my intake manifold from the exhaust manifold on my slant six without snapping those two long bolts?
 
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