jeep gambler wheels

[mike2]

Hi everyone, any body use jeep gambler rims on a volare ? , i like the rims and fairly easy to find reasonbly priced. I'm trying to keep project on the low.Rims are 15x8 with 5.5" back space 4.5 on bolt pattern , they came on wranglers 96 up to i think 2000, i have 14" ralleys now but want to find 15" rims ,

 

[mike2]

I am trying to use these rims on 1980 volare

 

[89.Fifth]

Jeep wheels have too much backspace and will hit the control arms on the front and make the back look awkward.

 

[DCAspen]

15x8 rims are to big to put on the front,I have a set[6] 1980 only 14x6 factory mag wheels if your interested,center caps,trim rings and enough triangles to do 5 wheels

 

[mike2]

Well I guess I will have to look some more , my ralleys are 14x5.5 now , would like the 15 for the bigger meats and less side wall, the back space on ralley is 3 1/2" , the jeep wheels were 5 for $125 so price was good . thanks for replies

 

[4speedjim]

Would 2 sets f/r of 1"- 1.25 wheel spacers get ya what you need clearance and stance wise? That probably destroys the cheap deal, but if your hell bent on those wheels it should work alright to correct the offset. I like your rally wheels on them cars. Put some taller BF G's or Coopers tires on those. New 15" rally repops are $100 each. But thats not cheap. I never did and still dont like modern wheels. Some nice older alum wheels and or OEM would look good and right. If you find anything not a Mirada 10 spoke it will be affordable. I like the 5 spoke styles, Kraiger s/s style. Anything 5 spoke I always prefer. The ones like whats on my car would look great on yours. '70s NYer Imp, 300 and Magnum wheels would look real good. Any of the 4.5 Bolt Circle premium wheels look right and good on an F body. Alum wheels are easy to repair at home if you find something a bit jigged up that you cant go home without.

 

[mike2]

super coupe had 15x8 rims all around with gr60 15 radials , that's the look im looking for, anyone know backspace of the super coupe rims ?- maybe can find correct back space on another wheel or a 0 or minus offset . Thanks

 

[DCAspen]

I thinking 4.5 on the backspace on a SC 15" wheel

 

[BudW]

The before-mentioned Jeep wheels will physically bolt onto the car. The backspace is what is in question. Actual interference to vehicle components are not known.

I hadn’t heard of anyone trying these wheels on an FMJ yet – so I would try one (of you already have the set, that is) to confirm fitment, before giving up.

I installed a set of Mirada 10 spoke 15” wheels onto my ’67 Satellite and had a few minor problems. One, the tire installer used stick on weights – at a location of said weights hit the ball joint. The finned brake drums caused bad chatter when brakes were applied (installing non-finned brake drums fixed that concern) and control arm movement (up/down) the very end of upper control arm made contact (barely) with the wheel. A grinder and a few minutes to smooth the rough stamped steel control arm (which almost looks just like an FMJ upper control arm, btw) fixed that concern as well.
Once those three things were fixed – I had no additional problems (well, except for the 4-wheel drum brakes not being as effective as I would have wanted).

The Mirada wheels had same offset so that wasn’t an issue in my case (except for comments, below).

Again, if you already have the wheels – give them a try in front as well as in rear. I’m not a fan of wheel spacers – but people have been using them for decades with little problems (that I hear of).

If they don’t work or do work with minor work – post some pictures and let us know.

The things to check:
In rear: distance from tire to leaf spring, distance of tire to quarter panel lip in all 3 locations (front, rear and top)

In front: distance of tire to fender in all 3 locations (front, rear and top), distance of tire to frame rail on both turn extremes and distance of wheel to any steering/suspension component with suspension at both extremes (up and down).
BudW

 

[mike2]

Thanks for all the info, I don't have the rims to try , they were an hour and half away, but I have some ranger rims 15x7 with 225/70 on them , going to try those on and see were the fit, will post what they look like .

 

[mike2]

i put ford ranger /explorerer wheels on , 15"x7" 5" backspace
tires are 225/75/15 wheel weight close but doesnt hit 2 hacksaw blades thick.

 

[mike2]

These are the old wheels, compared to bigger 15"

 

[droptop]

Anything is an improvement over Rallye wheels :my2cents: Those actually look pretty good. Is there any way to cover up the Ford center on your current wheel choice? I can hear BillyBob now, I ust to has me one of them Volare Fords. LOL

 

[mike2]

Lol. Yes can get a round emblem drill and screw to cover ford logo. But you also need right lug nuts to hold trim cap on. They do fit pretty good. Plentiful rims , and cheap. Plus different styles.

 

[BudW]

The wheels do look better on your car, than the vehicle they came off of.

My only concern is wheel backspace.

wheel weight close but doesnt hit 2 hacksaw blades thick.

You commented – but not sure what you are trying to say or where this picture was taken from/at, exactly.
I'm guessing the white box is the upper ball joint?

I’ve not measured a hacksaw blade before – but would guess they are about ½” tall. Are you saying the tires are roughly 1 inch away from anything, both front and in rear?
If referring to the thickness of two hacksaw blades, then things are TOO CLOSE!
Wheels do flex some (as well as wheel bearing play, spindle flex, ball joint play, etc.) and on hard turns - something will make contact.


I replaced the L/F upper ball joint on my wagon last year (actually had a wheel bearing failure, and noticed the extremely loose ball joint at same time), which this is a picture of that repair.

Thirty years ago, I installed 15" Mirada wheels on my ’67 Satellite – and had a similar problem with it. First, the stick-on weights would make contact with the upper control arm. I ended up having to use normal wheel weights. Also what I did, was grind off the outer most edge off of the outer control arm a bit. About a 1/8” bevel did the trick (white box) – so no (or very little) weakening of the control arm would occur.

In this case, It looks like a previous owner (or repair shop) tried to do something similar with a hammer (red circle) – which might be another possibility for you – but I don’t like using hammers on sensitive car parts.
BudW

 

[mike2]

thanks for info Bud,your pics and info are great, the wheel weight is close to upper ball joint about 3/16" , but if wheel weight was moved inboard of rim, it would have at least 3/8-1/2" clearance . so should be ok or a 16" or 17"rim would clear ball joint as well , these rims have 4 7/8 back space,from what i measured, ford forums say 5" is back space, these are 7" wide rims. i like the 10 spokes you have on the wagon, finding factory rims with less than 5" backspace seems to be hard to find, mustangs have nice wheels but offsets are 30-50 mm, i really don't want to use spacers, and want to keep cost down . Thanks for all the info

 

[Jonesym33]

I'm looking at a set of 18x8 and18x10 staggered wheels, 4.5 offset front and 5 offset rear. any chance you think these will fit a '76 volare?

 

[Oldiron440]

nope, not workout work!
I have 15x10 with 5" back spacing on the rear of mine, and the springs need to be moved in also the front of the inner wheelhouse needs work.
The car could use a 2" mini tub.

 

[mike2]

I don’t think those rims will fit. 18x10 with 5” offset. All the rim will be in the wheel well and be hitting springs. Check if its offset or back space to be sure. They are different measurements , if it was 5” back space on 10” they might fit.

 

[Oldiron440]

5" backspace will not just bolt on.