K-MEMBER ISOLATOR REPLACEMENT

MOPAR MIKE

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SCHOOL ME, WHAT NEEDS TO COME APART TO CHANGE THESE OUT.
I'M REPLACING THEM WITH METAL ONE.
 

Oldiron440

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I would imagine that you would loosen them all then replace one by one. Only tighting them all up when they are all installed.

I would appreciate very much if you will give me the thicknesses of the one that is the spacer between the k member and the frame rail.
Thanks Tom
 

MOPAR MIKE

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I would imagine that you would loosen them all then replace one by one. Only tighting them all up when they are all installed.

I would appreciate very much if you will give me the thicknesses of the one that is the spacer between the k member and the frame rail.
Thanks Tom
NO PROBLEM TOM.
I'LL GET YOU THAT INFO TOMARROW, WHEN I'M BACK IN THE SHOP.
 

MiradaMegacab

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Drill a 1/8” hole in the frame rail by each captured nut. Spray rust buster thru that hole onto the threads of the k frames bolts... Soak that shit once a day for a week prior to removing the bolts....
 

MiradaMegacab

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1E871BAE-9D2B-412B-978B-A1FDB80A2611.jpeg

Firm Feel aluminum mount dimensions
 

Opticon77

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Warning to anyone thinking they were going to loosen the Kframe, drop it a couple inches with a pole jack, and "slide" spacers in; There is a metal guide sleeve tacked to the upper bushing retainer (traveling though both halves of the rubber bushing) that will NOT allow you to slide the top bushing out without a good 4" of clearance... but as you lower the Kframe the upper control arms contact the top of the frame rails right around the 3" mark.

OOPS! Your options are now...

A) Disconnect the upper control arm mounting plates from the K frame uprights.
-or-
B) Cut the exposed inch of metal guide sleeve off so the upper bushing can slide out.

And check Bud's very detailed "factory service manual" response later in that thread...
 

Aspen500

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Support the k-frame with a floor jack. Then remove one bolt and loosen the others most of the way out. Carefully lower the k-frame until the isolator will come out. Put the spacer in and start that bolt. Do the same for the other three.
The limiting factor to how far you can lower the K are the upper control arm brackets. They'll hit the subframe rail but you should have enough clearance to get the old ones out. The solid spacers don't need as much room so getting them in will be no problem.
 

jasperjacko

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There should be enough movement in the rag joint and coupler to be ok
 

BudW

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DOES THE STEERING COLUM NEED TO BE DISCONNECTED?
If changing the K-frame mounts (only), then steering linkage shouldn’t need to be touched.

If removing the K-frame assembly, then steering shaft will need to be disconnected at either the rag joint or knock out pin at coupler to gear. I think the rag joint is easier – especially if you don’t have power brakes.
BudW
 
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