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SCHOOL ME, WHAT NEEDS TO COME APART TO CHANGE THESE OUT.
I'M REPLACING THEM WITH METAL ONE.
I would imagine that you would loosen them all then replace one by one. Only tighting them all up when they are all installed.
I would appreciate very much if you will give me the thicknesses of the one that is the spacer between the k member and the frame rail.
NO PROBLEM TOM.
I'LL GET YOU THAT INFO TOMARROW, WHEN I'M BACK IN THE SHOP.
Drill a 1/8” hole in the frame rail by each captured nut. Spray rust buster thru that hole onto the threads of the k frames bolts... Soak that shit once a day for a week prior to removing the bolts....
Firm Feel aluminum mount dimensions
And check Bud's very detailed "factory service manual" response later in that thread...
Support the k-frame with a floor jack. Then remove one bolt and loosen the others most of the way out. Carefully lower the k-frame until the isolator will come out. Put the spacer in and start that bolt. Do the same for the other three.
The limiting factor to how far you can lower the K are the upper control arm brackets. They'll hit the subframe rail but you should have enough clearance to get the old ones out. The solid spacers don't need as much room so getting them in will be no problem.
DOES THE STEERING COLUM NEED TO BE DISCONNECTED?
There should be enough movement in the rag joint and coupler to be ok
If changing the K-frame mounts (only), then steering linkage shouldn’t need to be touched.
If removing the K-frame assembly, then steering shaft will need to be disconnected at either the rag joint or knock out pin at coupler to gear. I think the rag joint is easier – especially if you don’t have power brakes.