Ford 8.8

Mopar&vettedude

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I went to my local driveshaft shop and picked up a combo ujoint for 28 bucks. So I can utilize the ford prop shaft parts. I did notice with the lsc and the cobra fox body platform they came with 31 spline axles, the same with the sn95 cobras. The only thing I'm worried about is if I will have to either shorten the driveshaft.
 

Ele115

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Is the same thing true of the Lincoln Mark VII/7 rear end? I'm pretty sure it's an 8.8" with disc brakes, just don't know about width.

The Mark 7 May work, should be easy to find but it's going to be a coil spring setup. It may be floating calipers, which would be nice. parts are probably on the shelf too. I have never checked. I also don't know if it's got the flange type yoke mount like the 9 inch Versailles but it would be tempting to look into it.
 

BudW

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I can not comment about Ford (or GM) yokes (just don’t know).
The newer Dodges come with a flange style yoke, starting sometime in the later ‘90’s. The yokes will switch out with the FMJ style without issue. They will not interchange with the 10-spline yokes used in the ‘60’s, though.
One thing I hadn’t measured yet is if the propeller shaft length remains the same between the two different yoke designs. I suspect they are – but not measured yet to verify.

FMJ style
77 FSM pg 16-2g.jpg


Newer (pickup/van/Dakota) style.
02 FSM 16x13.jpg

Note: I found an error from my FSM on the above picture – which I corrected (in red).

I wonder if GM/Ford yokes might interchange anyway – possibly.
An example is Dana 60 differential was used for GM/Ford/Dodge/Jeep and they all use the same ring/pinion gear set. Also, the Dodge Dana 60 Yoke will fit on FMJ differentials – except for the older 10-spline yokes).
BudW
 

Oldiron440

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The Mark7 is going to be a Fox platform and the same as a Mustang.
 

Oldiron440

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There's a modification to the 8.8 that should be done before you install, Ford uses a crush sleeve behind the pinion bearing so if your making substantial power with decent traction you should replace it with a spacer and shims. Kits are available for $10.00.
 

BudW

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Ford uses a crush sleeve behind the pinion bearing . . . you should replace it with a spacer and shims.
Ah, the ole crush sleeve. A "cheap part" designed to “save time” when repairing differentials.

The crush sleeve is designed to be a one-time use part and looks like a piece of pipe that has been stepped on (sorta). I don’t like the one-time use aspect of it, for sometimes you must take a differential apart to re-shim a bearing or something - you must toss the new (but just barely used) part and install another new one.

This what the crush sleeve looks like in an FMJ differential (7¼” or 8¼”):
8.25 Crush Sleeve.jpg

Crush Sleeve.jpg

Ford and others are similar.

This is one companies (there are other companies, as well) fix for a crush sleeve replacement:
Ratech 4114.jpg

Ratech #4114 (works for both Chrysler 7¼” or 8¼” differentials).

If I was performing a “cheap” differential repair, just to get the car out the door – go with crush sleeve.
If you want the job done right (on the first time), and can withstand lots of abuse, and is re-useable – go with a crush sleeve retrofit shim kit (this doesn’t matter who made the differential). The above kit part number is only about $10-12 (US).

Technically, even removing the large yoke nut (for a pinion seal replacement or if the nut just came loose), you are required to also change the crush sleeve.

The crush sleeve is what is keeping the large yoke nut tight. If you had worked with a few of these before, you will say “that flimsy thing is keeping this large nut tight”? Sometimes – it doesn’t.
BudW
 

Oldiron440

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I have in a bind used a shim or two on a crush sleeve to work a little temporary magic. Lol
 

BudW

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I have reused a few crush sleeves before – as emergency or in a pinch (not recommended, though).
You need a shim of about 0.020” to stack onto the old crush sleeve – but finding a correct thickness and correct diameter shim can be, um, not fun.
BudW
 

Mopar&vettedude

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At this point I'm good with just a simple refresh on the axle. When I convert over to 31 spline down the road I'll probably go with the crush sleeve eliminator kit. The nice thing about the pinion flange is that when i pulled the rearend the last guy cut the driveshaft in half and left me the companion flange with it. Thats why i went the combo ujoint instead of a whole new setup.
 

Ele115

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I have not had any problem with the crush sleeves, but I recommend re-checking the torque a few times after you're done. I have seen the nut work it's way back. After you get some miles on it, this will stop.
 

Ele115

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Yeah, I don't think they were that worried about the rear ends when they were dropping those 175 HP engines in these cars. If you put a decent engine in one, the rear end won't last long
 

MiradaMegacab

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Anyone have an extra pair of factory rear spring iso hangers?
Similar to what’s pictured here....
Thank you.....
B6D103DB-7D39-4F0A-978A-3BDC6324ED1E.jpeg
 

Mopar&vettedude

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Yeah, I don't think they were that worried about the rear ends when they were dropping those 175 HP engines in these cars. If you put a decent engine in one, the rear end won't last long
I've noticed its hit and miss with people. Some people grenade the rearend with some power, while a buddy of mine has a procharger fox body thats pushing at least 6 to the wheels and he still has the stock 28 spline axles and drag races it.
 

Opticon77

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Torque converters and a boost ramp will do wonders to preserve driveline. Clutch dumps into wheelhopping sticky tires do the exact opposite.
 

BudW

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Torque converters and a boost ramp will do wonders to preserve driveline. Clutch dumps into wheelhopping sticky tires do the exact opposite.
This is not the place to get into a debate between the Chrysler 8¾” and Dana 60 (9¾”), I don’t think – but thinking about what @Opticon77 said, Chrysler put the 8¾” behind Hemi automatics and the Dana 60 in Hemi 4-speed cars (unless customer requested a Dana 60 on an automatic) – for most likely the same reason (no reason was ever given as to why).

Sorta unrelated, up until the 8¾” differential was replaced in C-bodies (‘72ish, maybe) to 8¼” and 9¼” (Chrysler built) differentials, Chrysler used the 8¾” in all C-bodies except for ’67-’69 HP 440 4-speeds – which used a Dana 53 (9¼”) – which I also wonder if for the same reason as mentioned above.
BudW
 

Oldiron440

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Its funny that i haven't heard much good about the 9.25, I've got a limited slip in the basement for one and I cant believe what mopar wants for a new one. I thought I might use it in a pickup some day.
 

Duke5A

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Its funny that i haven't heard much good about the 9.25, I've got a limited slip in the basement for one and I cant believe what mopar wants for a new one. I thought I might use it in a pickup some day.

Dad's got one in his Diplomat that we plucked from an early 80's Dodge Ram half ton. To completely go through it with a new SG and shortening it only cost him $1600.
 

Mopar&vettedude

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I have a 79 Aspen. I put an 8.8 in it. I didn't use an Explorer rear end though. I found that the 94-98 Mustang GT has nearly the same width rear axle. I bought mine out of a 97. I cut the coil spring perches off and welded leaf spring perched on. Its the same bold pattern and rear disc brakes. Pretty easy swap.

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Did you have to shorten the shaft and if so how much?
 
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