Front shocks

brotherGood

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Looking for info for new front shocks. Long story short, got under the car this morning and while giving everything else a once-over I noticed the drivers side shock isnt even hooked up. Not sure how long it's been like that, but I figure while I'm addressing it I'd might as well put something better in it.

Ultimate goal, something that feels/handles like a new car. I've already got plans for the steering box (Steer and Gear is an hour from me) but beyond that im pretty much lost.

I've heard mixed reviews of the KYB Gas-a-justs..but that's the only thing I've heard of
 

MBDale

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For what it’s worth, I’m just running stock replacement Monroe shocks right now. I’d like to find the “Double D socket” so I can tighten them down better. Hopefully someone chimes in with a part number or something. Also a recommendation on a better shock for us too.
 

volare 77

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Monroes here from suggestion of member.Glad I did . Car rides much nicer now. I removed KYB`s too stiff for me.
 

Opticon77

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I'd be curious to know whether the KYB bound damping was too stiff OR if the rebound damping was high enough that it "jacked down" into your bump stops on rough roads. I'm thinking it's the latter because the stock torsion bars are so soft they wouldn't fight the rebound very well.

They answer would probably be discernible if you drove over a smooth road and hit a single sharp bump like 1.5" tall (like a small bar of square tube stock).

If you feel that single bump in your teeth the bound setting is too stiff. Otherwise it's jacking down on rebound and riding on the rubber bump stops.
 

volare 77

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For me it was the bound dampening was too stiff. It was like these shocks would have be good on a much heavier/bigger car.
 

Opticon77

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Jeez. What's the heaviest FMJ ever made? Imperial at 3900lbs? And the lightest the slant Aspen at 3200? Not sure how much of that difference is in the nose but maybe that's a wide enough split to cause a design conundrum.
 

Duke5A

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Ultimate goal, something that feels/handles like a new car. I've already got plans for the steering box (Steer and Gear is an hour from me) but beyond that im pretty much lost.

Like a new modern car, or a new Diplomat? Getting these things to handle like something made in the last decade involves opening your wallet nice and wide. You'll spend almost $1k getting the steering alone up to modern car specs.

Getting it to handle decently can be done without too much cash. Guys have already given good shock recommendations here in this thread. And yes...KYB shocks are junk.
 

Oldiron440

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My stripped Volare coupe with /6 and manual 3 speed was 3500 lbs with a half a tank of fuel. I can't believe there one much lighter than that.
 

jasperjacko

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Kyb is way over rated. They say their shocks are engineered for each car. This is not true. Same part number for a 74 440 Monaco as a slant six mirada.
 

brotherGood

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Better than factory, but I know it's not gonna compared to a new modern car. That being said, there shouldn't be any reason I cant at least out handle my base Sonata..I've yet to find the limit with it. Sure, the diplomat wont ride as smooth, but as long as I'm not getting beat to death I'm fine.

Like a new modern car, or a new Diplomat? Getting these things to handle like something made in the last decade involves opening your wallet nice and wide. You'll spend almost $1k getting the steering alone up to modern car specs.

Getting it to handle decently can be done without too much cash. Guys have already given good shock recommendations here in this thread. And yes...KYB shocks are junk.
 

kkritsilas

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If you can get close to the Sonata, you should be very happy. THe Sonata, even a foreign, base car, has a much better suspension design, rack and pinion steering, and probably a lot less corrosion than your Diplomat.

Our cars were primarily designed to have a "big car" ride, not to handle well. There is no doubt that the handling can be improved, even going beyond what came out of the factory brand new, but the design was optimized to emulate the ride of the C and B bodies, and handling was further down the list. As long as the ride was good, handling took a back seat, after all, with the size and weight reduction of our cars (all of them, F, M and J bodies), they already out-handled the Bs and Cs.
 

brotherGood

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In all honesty, you hit it on the head. If I can get close, I'll be happy. As I said, I've yet to find a limit in that thing. I know the designs are exponentially different (speed assist power steering..what??l)

I dont have the funds to have the best handling M out there, nor do I care to shoot for that solely for the title. I just want something that I can absolutely thrash on and know that itll take it.
 

Aspen500

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My car would NEVER be able to compete with even the most basic shit box built today for handling. It seems to be just a tad nose heavy.......

That said, when I had the KYB's on, it actually handled worse (IMO). On curves, if you hit a bump, the back of the car would jump to the side because the shocks were to stiff. With the Monroe's, no problem. I can actually take the curves faster now. The highway I take to work has multiple curves and previously, as an example, one that has a speed sign for the curve of 45, I can take it at 45 (and feel comfortable about it), where before I had to slow down farther. Now, my '08 Mustang I don't even have to slow down going 55-60mph (speed limit is 55) even around the one 40 mph curve. Different cars, different eras. One's got an aluminum headed SOHC 4.0L V-6 under the hood, the other a big honking million pound, iron headed 500" big block on top of the front tires, lol.
 

Duke5A

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These cars can handle and handle well.
  • Frame ties
  • ISO delete
  • Aluminum K pucks
  • Cop front and rear sway bars
  • Shim the pressure reducer in the PS pump
The above will do wonders for road handling and feel without emptying the wallet.
  • FF 300# torsion bars
  • Borgeson power steering gear
The last two will transform the car, but between the two are about $1700. It'll handle like something modern. 15" tires can be still be used and will actually keep the ride comfortable. Going to a lower profile tire will further increase handling performance, but will make the ride exponentially worse.
 

brotherGood

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Pucks are on the list. I've got the cop front/rear bar already (it is an AHB) and I deleted the ISO setup outback when swapping axles. As far as the steering box goes, I plan on adding the top tier box from Steer & Gear around the same time as the pucks.

Frame ties..I've heard them mentioned but never looked into them.
 

Duke5A

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Pucks are on the list. I've got the cop front/rear bar already (it is an AHB) and I deleted the ISO setup outback when swapping axles. As far as the steering box goes, I plan on adding the top tier box from Steer & Gear around the same time as the pucks.

Frame ties..I've heard them mentioned but never looked into them.

Ever notice how far the nose of the car dives after setting the front frame rails in jack stands? The chassis on these cars lacks a lot of rigidity. Stiffening the suspension only goes so far if what ties it all together is a wet noodle. The difference is night and day.
 

brotherGood

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I cant remember, was that something that ART used to make, or did you have to make them yourself.

It's been years since I remember that conversation (Farley's pre-allpar I think) but I vaguely remember reading it.
 
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