There is a lot of topics here to discuss.
Many years back (I’ve had my ’86 Fifth Ave for about fifteen years, now) I’ve struggled on what to do with existing engine or what to transplant it with.
First thing I thought of was to install a 4-bbl, camshaft and free flowing exhaust to existing 318 (which is now a stock 2-bbl, still).
Then thought about installing a 360 in place of existing 318.
A few months later, I traded my brother for a 340 block and was thinking about installing a built 340 into car, but later decided not to (and traded the 340 back to him).
A Magnum 360 and a stroked 360 was also considered somewhere in period of trying to make up my mind.
I want a car to be fun to drive around town in and something wife could drive (if wanted) without having to complain to me on how it drives (she wants it to start, run and get to point A to B without ANY concern) – so I figured the best way to do that was a engine with lots of (tons of) power down low, fuel injection (for drivability), no shifting (ie: automatic transmission) and for car to be
QUIET.
For the most part most, small blocks need higher RPM’s to start producing power (for a heavyweight M-body) and that just didn’t calculate into what I needed.
What I finally decided on was to get a 400 (LB) and stroke it a bit, and that should meet all my criteria for wife (and myself) to be happy.
The 383 and 400 blocks/engines are almost identical, except for the bore size. The 383 (in stock or modified form) is a "quick to rev" engine and it likes the RPM’s. Most stock HP 383’s kept up with, if not faster in some cases than most stock 440’s were – until emissions hit the cars. Also, there is as many 383’s made as there are 318’s out there, so finding a good 383 block is somewhat easy. There are far more 383’ s made than all other Chrysler big blocks (combined).
When I finally made my decision, I had, in my garage at the time, a police 318, a pair of 360’s, a ’70 V-code 440 (out of my ’70 300/H), a 440/727 out of a motor home, ’73 400/727, a NOS 400 and a NOS 440 short block. I sent my ’73 400 bare block and a piston to machine shop and that shop went out of business – so not sure where my block is at. I sense found another NOS 400 short block (traded my NOS 440 short block for it) – so if I don’t ever get my ’73 block back, I’m OK (but not happy).
I also obtained two stroker crank kits from 440 Source (3.915” stroke) which is about 465 ci. I wanted to keep the rod-to-stroke ratio between 1.65-1.70 (1.66 in this case). I plan on driving these engines daily, so why bore out a brand-new block (or blocks, in this case)? To keep the stock bores as is, I had new Diamond pistons made for the engines, that are moly/ceramic coated.
With my new 440 Source Stealth heads, I should have a calculated (not yet measured) compression ratio of 9.57:1. The goal for my engine is top RPM of 5500-6000 and for it to start starving for air around 5500 (I never have liked high RPM’s –
but that is where most engines tend to make the most power at). I found two sets of C-body HP exhaust manifolds (for noise level) and Edelbrock 2186 Performer Intake(s).
I currently have one set each of aluminum water pump housings (Left and Right exit) and not decided on which one – yet.
Both engines will have A/C.
The only thing I hadn’t decided on yet is camshaft and related parts. My goal is to have peak torque as down low as I can get it.
The wagon will have the existing A904 tossed out and either a 5 or a 6-speed manual put in its place. I prefer shifting – but wife doesn’t, so the Fifth Ave will have a A518 installed using a JW Performance Ultra Bell (p/n 92457) installed ($500 US).
Both cars will have 8¾” which I will start rebuilding them this spring. I will make threads for each of these projects when the times come.
A bit more parts gathering to do and I refuse to go into debt over this project (or projects).
As far as getting the engine installed, I also have a plan – but I also have two cars that doing similar modifications too. First, I was going to get measurements from car after getting ride height set correctly, from all 4 K-frame mounts and transmission mount to make a pair of K-frame carts. I was also going to measure the centerline of crankshaft at front of engine and at output shaft. That way I get the engine transmission installed in correct position. I have (or had – just waiting on replacement to get back to me) a spare V8 K-frame/front suspension. Was going to modify the K-frame for engine, then get it heavily reinforced. Rebuild the suspension, then place engine/transmission onto my cart.
When time comes to change the engine (which should be done in a weekend), I was going insert one cart under existing 318/A904/suspension/exhaust and unbolt it from chassis. Raise the body up and roll one assembly out from under car and wheel the other into its place. Drop body down and presto – one car done. Then repeat for the other car after rebuilding suspension and modifying the next K-frame.
One of the items I don’t have worked out yet, is what to do about the engine oil filter. It is impossible to change a big block oil filter car from under the car. The battery (if applicable), torsion bars, P/S pump (if applicable) and radiator hose (if using a Right exit water pump housing) can make regular oil changes a pain. I’m thinking about fitting an external oil filter to driver’s side inner fender area using an oil pump housing like this:
Then incorporating an automatic transmission external oil filter setup on the passenger side inner fender (a mirror of driver’s side) – but that is a different topic.
BudW
