WANTED 77 Volare rear leaf springs

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BudW

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I, um, don’t like to get into a closed trunk, or at least as little as possible. Um, yea, that’s my story.
 

bill55az

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Best cheap way to get better springs on FMJ is to drop all the leafs except the long ones, then add back to the spring pack the 3 leafs from a Dakota. You will have to trim the ends to remove the mount eyes and not use the overload leaf.
Front segment length is the same for Dakota, FMJ, and Ramcharger. Rear segment of Dakota leafs is 2" shorter, Ramcharger is 4" shorter.
Check the door plate of your FMJ and the donor Dakota for rear axle rating (since they both use the 8 1/4 axle, the actual rating is in the springs), try to get Dakota springs that are about the same as your car.
Don't overdo it, I did the first time and it rode harsh over speed bumps. My rig got the iso-mounts eliminated (made a spacer out of the overload leaf center)
and a 1" rear sway bar. Probably easier to keep the iso-mount and use poly cushions. Then I added larger front sway bar. Handled real nice after that.
 

Leizurtime

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I might have a tube (or two) at home, that are not perfect. They are dug way way way deep in the garage.
Do you have a picture of yours - or can take a picture of what you have (on car) so I (or anyone else) can possibly match up?

Okay, made it back to LKQ today and pulled this pipe off of a 82 van. Seems to match one of the air injection tubes I desperately needed. Its a type of bypass which feeds to just below the exit aperture on the exhaust manifold.
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I'm still considering getting the air injection line which feeds both exhaust manifolds. There are a few Diplomats and 5th Avenues out here too Budw with the pipe you have. But that particular line is fed to the rear of the engine and manifolds on the driver side, not the passenger side like mine is. May not have to replace that one though, it might be in good enough shape.
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But the pipe leading to the air switch valve (the one with the fang marks) I'll probably wind up pulling the original and having it cut and a new tube welded on. This 77 California version of emissions on these cars seems to be hard to find. Newer cars differ slightly.
 

BudW

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I have 4 and ½ pipes.
Note: I didn’t intend to keep these parts - I just hadn’t discarded them yet.

Example A is from (I think) ‘78 360 motor home, maybe.
It looks to be in fairly decent shape considering its 40 years old.
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Has a broken tab a few inches from the valve.


Example B is (I think) ‘84 318 4 bbl M-body, maybe.
The car had the intake and other goodies literally ripped off of the car, the other half of this pipe included. It is missing the valve and it appears to not came off easily (too hard to get a pair of plyers, I guess).
It looks like it could be welded on without problem. Part has about 50k miles on it.
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Example C is from my ‘77 Volare 318 2 bbl, from New York.
The pipe only attaches to passenger side rear of exhaust manifold (and is not for sale). A reference picture only.
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Example D is from my ‘86 5th Ave with 60k miles. It has two pipes, both fed from (the now non-existent) smog pump.
Both of these can be for sale soon - but it might be a couple of months still. I have to replace the entire exhaust system, and figured I could toss a few parts out while doing so.
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Drivers side. I "think" this one looks like the '84 one, above.
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Passenger side. This one goes to rear cat converter.
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Leizurtime

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Been meaning to post an update for you guys, here are some bumper fillers I pulled off an ole Aspen at the pick ur part. I'm still in dire need of a spare compartment hatch and rear bumper shell. Not to mention all four running lights, amber and red. And of course, the air pump tube that crosses over between the two exhaust manifolds. It seems the 1977 year tube is pretty particular. Most all other years I come across have the air check valve on the driver side bank of the engine, not the passenger side, like mine. The car is insured and registered now, I'm hoping by this weekend she'll have brand new rubber on her :)

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BudW

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The marker lights are part number 3587440 (red) and 3587436 (yellow) and (I believe) are still available brand new.
I purchased a new set about a year ago for my car (about $40 US) and put them away for future use.

BudW
 

BudW

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Trunk pictures.

When I first opened the spare tire cover, I noticed this item, and was thinking what in da world.
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Then I read the paper instruction (like really, who reads instructions)?
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FYI, this paper calls that a "CARGO PANEL" and the black cable is "CARGO PANEL SUPPORT".

My paper tire instruction kinda disintegrated.
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I don’t think my F78-14 Firestone Super Belt Deluxe Champion (yes that is the tire name) spare tire has ever been on the road, nor does it appear the jack has been removed before (if it had been, they did a great job putting it back).
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BudW

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After I upgrade the brakes, I will have to install 15" wheels (14"s wont fit afterwards).

I was looking at the tire cavity and not sure that I can get a much bigger tire in there.
 

BudW

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Just please promise me you won't put those gawdawful thin pimp tires on the car.
Justwondering,
The wheels on car currently look like a 14” version of this (which should also look like the spare on your car – unless you have a compact spare).
Std wheel.jpg


I plan on going with the police version of the 15” wheels which look like this. You can spot them by the 6 ovals in them. Pretty much all 15” hubcaps will fit them, even the wire hubcaps currently on my 5th Ave, but for the Volare, I’m staying with the factory dog dish style.
Not decided if staying with black (which is how dog dished wheels came in ’77) or painted to match body color (what I prefer).
Police Wheel 1.jpg

Police Wheel 2.jpg


There is at least one forum member, maybe two, who has upgraded to stronger police wheels on their wagon – but a quick search didn’t pull anything up.

In the last twenty or so years, sense those huge wheels/rubber band tires came out – no one steals the 14’s or 15’s tires/wheels anymore.
Also, take a ride in two identical vehicles, one with regular tires and one with huge wheels/rubber band tires, and tell me which one rides smoother. Yes, your kidneys will thank you.

If for some reason I decide to race professionally (which I doubt), I might consider going with race tires/wheels (which, by the way, still have about the same proportion as stock tires/wheels are).
Also, if a few thousand dollars fell into my lap to spend on the car, I’d definitely spend it - but not on fancy tires or wheels.

BudW
 

Justwondering

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First time anyone explained the difference on the wheels ... that's cool info.

If money falls in your lap, let me know where to stand so it can fall in mine as well ...lol
 

Leizurtime

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So i worked on the car yesterday, hoping to replace the water pump, thinking that was the reason she can't hold coolant. I discovered the timing cover has a hole rotted out where it meets the water pump. Thank goodness it didn't go inside the block . Am I correct that a 360 timing cover is identical to a 318 timing cover? I went and pulled off one from a van of the same year today.
 
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