Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Putting the needle back on you need to use only enough force to push it back on, and no more Delicate is an understatement, lol
any one have knowledge of a food online wiring guide I kinda need some help
- Thread starter armataz
- Start date
armataz
Well-Known Member
yah..I'll let some one else risk it LOL. with the way my luck is going.. with parts. I dont need to tempt the faits.
TAZ
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Has the faite Clotho been throwing a few broken threads in as she spins your life line lately? LOL
armataz
Well-Known Member
broken, rusty, leaking, missing, fauled, delayed,and just plain wrong spent over 2,000 bucks on junk parts ,tryin to get this and the duster on the road again
armataz
Well-Known Member
got lucky, the gauge cluster was still there and it is now on its way. hopefully this one is intact, and operational. the circuit bord is messed up.
but I have one that looks brand new .
thanks again mike for the link.
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armataz
Well-Known Member
I think I have enough junk to start putting the parts back together now.
I got the new mopar parts catalog from classic industries, and ordered new heater control cables, and passenger side vent lever/control, and some new retainer springs.
and a can of non flammable electrical lube spray. to help pulling old wire connections, with out damaging them, and to clean/ lube the new to me fan motor,
I tested it off the battery, and it runs. but starts to squeal after a while. so I figgered it's a good time to get it smoothed out
I got a set of strait high back buckets, I think from a satellite .
I was going to use thee buckets from the SE, but the frames were rotten at the back, the tracks are still good, just need oiled and sanded and new adjustment wires
the buckets frame I am going to use are the same width, but a little longer. so I need to make an adaptor bracket.
expect pictures. once I start putting it back together. which should be soon.
TAZ
I got the new mopar parts catalog from classic industries, and ordered new heater control cables, and passenger side vent lever/control, and some new retainer springs.
and a can of non flammable electrical lube spray. to help pulling old wire connections, with out damaging them, and to clean/ lube the new to me fan motor,
I tested it off the battery, and it runs. but starts to squeal after a while. so I figgered it's a good time to get it smoothed out
I got a set of strait high back buckets, I think from a satellite .
I was going to use thee buckets from the SE, but the frames were rotten at the back, the tracks are still good, just need oiled and sanded and new adjustment wires
the buckets frame I am going to use are the same width, but a little longer. so I need to make an adaptor bracket.
expect pictures. once I start putting it back together. which should be soon.
TAZ
armataz
Well-Known Member
had a productive day on sunday got all the dash parts I salvaged assembled as a test fit.
used metal rails from an old bed frame to make mounts attached to the bottom of the seat, so I could mount the factory seat rails.
. I still have to take it all back apart so paint the plastic. and figure out how to plumb the hot air box to the new AC duct work (any one with Ideas would be appreciated).
but it is nice to finally see it "whole" again, and I even went for a drive with the way-gone .
up date pics later. TAZ
used metal rails from an old bed frame to make mounts attached to the bottom of the seat, so I could mount the factory seat rails.
. I still have to take it all back apart so paint the plastic. and figure out how to plumb the hot air box to the new AC duct work (any one with Ideas would be appreciated).
but it is nice to finally see it "whole" again, and I even went for a drive with the way-gone .
up date pics later. TAZ
armataz
Well-Known Member
here are the updated pics. as I said I still have to pull it back apart to paint the plastic. so dont mind the miss match.
I also swapped and laid out the barons harness. I will still have to swap a few wire connectors. because of rust damage.
but nothing that a few butt connectors and shrink wrap cant fix.
thanks again for all the help and encouragement along the way.
glad to say, I'm getting dangerously close to being back on the road.
TAZ
I also swapped and laid out the barons harness. I will still have to swap a few wire connectors. because of rust damage.
but nothing that a few butt connectors and shrink wrap cant fix.
thanks again for all the help and encouragement along the way.
glad to say, I'm getting dangerously close to being back on the road.
TAZ
armataz
Well-Known Member
just a short update, adding some color, and replaced the card board backing with the stainless on the heater box. changed out the frozen fan motor too. the stainless just folded over the lip on the box, no clips required, I pinched it tight with plyers.
re painted the dash, I was going to try to recover the pad, but I decided to try a trick first.
I used a product called big stretch it is a type of paintable caulking used to fill large voids and remain flexible. to fill in the cracks, and then repainted it.
painted the passenger side knee panel as well as some of the other parts
the last pic shows the drivers side knee panel that survived the fire to show how close the new color is ,too the original.
more updates later, I should be able to start some final assembly soon.. TAZ
re painted the dash, I was going to try to recover the pad, but I decided to try a trick first.
I used a product called big stretch it is a type of paintable caulking used to fill large voids and remain flexible. to fill in the cracks, and then repainted it.
painted the passenger side knee panel as well as some of the other parts
the last pic shows the drivers side knee panel that survived the fire to show how close the new color is ,too the original.
more updates later, I should be able to start some final assembly soon.. TAZ
armataz
Well-Known Member
had a busy weekend. got a lot done. dint take pics of. everything but the heater box is put bacl the vent cable pn passenger side is hooked up, but not mounted.
decided to re do the instrument cover panel.
I also had to make the adaptor to duct air from my heater box to my dash& defrost vents
I made it using the stainless baffling, and heavy aluminum tape. once in place I also used the tape to connect everything and hold it together.
but like I said, I got a lot done, like install the new radio antenna, sand down and clean the metal door head rails, paint then re-install all the parts I have ready to date. but as you can tell by the mess, there is still a lot of work to do.
and to add to the list, my passenger side seat, blew its seams, so I'll have to repair that too.
any who? here are a couple more pics. of what I got accomplished.
more updates as they come in.
TAZ
decided to re do the instrument cover panel.
I also had to make the adaptor to duct air from my heater box to my dash& defrost vents
I made it using the stainless baffling, and heavy aluminum tape. once in place I also used the tape to connect everything and hold it together.
but like I said, I got a lot done, like install the new radio antenna, sand down and clean the metal door head rails, paint then re-install all the parts I have ready to date. but as you can tell by the mess, there is still a lot of work to do.
and to add to the list, my passenger side seat, blew its seams, so I'll have to repair that too.
any who? here are a couple more pics. of what I got accomplished.
more updates as they come in.
TAZ
80mirada
Well-Known Member
I like the color, has a nice snap to it
armataz
Well-Known Member
not finished, but this is how I'm doing the door skins. more later.
armataz
Well-Known Member
any one know how to remove a visor from the hanger arm? I just received a pair of visors from classic industries. but they did not include the hangers, so I have to re use the ones I got.
thanks.
thanks.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
You have to twist and pull fairly hard. The hangers are just a tight friction fit into the visor.
armataz
Well-Known Member
thanks, I thought there was a hidden retainer or something. I'll try using some dry lube/ graphite, to see if ithelps the old burnt visors give way.
armataz
Well-Known Member
newest update
door panel, stripped down to backing
measured top line and started painting on the contact cement.
contact cement I'm using paint down liberally to your lines (top and bottom and back of materials to be applied)
rolled aluminum, rounded formica self edge used for a clean finished look, and nylon coated "press in" door weather strip. (used that for making my window felts.) and not shown about 100 pop rivets LOL
.
thats how I got to this
I was going to show more details, but time was getting away from me, I flipped that over painted the edges about 2" all the way around, and cut the over hang into fingers , with slices spaced about every 2-4 " +/-.this allows you to draw the materials tight as you fold the mover to the backing..
to get to this:
.( back door inside release deleted)
:
some more stuff I got done repainted the glove box door to match the instrument facia cover, mounted the vent cable, started re stitching the passenger seat so it looks a lil better, then split seams and foam padding spilling out, drivers side is are also done, new sun visors (ones in the dash) and a bobble taz. I also installed the new fan motor resistor while the glove box was out and finished some more of the wiring.
some thing else I did, but didnt show. since I dont smoke I deleted the ash tray, in favor of a multi- port power outlet to run power chargers, GPS, solar batery tender and other accessories that I might need. (like the console, I took it from a mid 90's GMC yukon. and modified it to fit)
there's more, but thats all I have pics of,
more to fallow. as I'm getting closer to driving her on a daily basis again.
and finally getting her to where I can clean her up and out.
LOL
TAZ
door panel, stripped down to backing
measured top line and started painting on the contact cement.
contact cement I'm using paint down liberally to your lines (top and bottom and back of materials to be applied)
rolled aluminum, rounded formica self edge used for a clean finished look, and nylon coated "press in" door weather strip. (used that for making my window felts.) and not shown about 100 pop rivets LOL
.
thats how I got to this
I was going to show more details, but time was getting away from me, I flipped that over painted the edges about 2" all the way around, and cut the over hang into fingers , with slices spaced about every 2-4 " +/-.this allows you to draw the materials tight as you fold the mover to the backing..
to get to this:
.( back door inside release deleted)
:
some more stuff I got done repainted the glove box door to match the instrument facia cover, mounted the vent cable, started re stitching the passenger seat so it looks a lil better, then split seams and foam padding spilling out, drivers side is are also done, new sun visors (ones in the dash) and a bobble taz. I also installed the new fan motor resistor while the glove box was out and finished some more of the wiring.
some thing else I did, but didnt show. since I dont smoke I deleted the ash tray, in favor of a multi- port power outlet to run power chargers, GPS, solar batery tender and other accessories that I might need. (like the console, I took it from a mid 90's GMC yukon. and modified it to fit)
there's more, but thats all I have pics of,
more to fallow. as I'm getting closer to driving her on a daily basis again.
and finally getting her to where I can clean her up and out.
LOL
TAZ
armataz
Well-Known Member
this is the rest of the interior of my service wagon. (pre- fire)
this shows the center filler pannel better , it is split because there is a small storage compartment behind the main tool/storage box
L
I used some 3M body panel tape to secure the 3/4X 1/8th angle I used for a dress edge,on the lid. I'll add some pop rivits later, if nessisary..
this shows the center filler pannel better , it is split because there is a small storage compartment behind the main tool/storage box
L
I used some 3M body panel tape to secure the 3/4X 1/8th angle I used for a dress edge,on the lid. I'll add some pop rivits later, if nessisary..
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armataz
Well-Known Member
I'm finding there is quite a bit of difference between a AC wire harness and a non AC. and I'm having trouble getting power from the fan control switch, to the fan . any one have the wire chart showing both leads? I tried using the new AC resistor first but not all the wires are in use from the controller, since mine is non AC. so I need to see what wires goes to what? so I can try the non AC resistor. thanks. TAZ
armataz
Well-Known Member
I made a filler panel to adapt the non AC heater box to the AC ducting,, bi past the AC control and wired the fan directly to the heaters fan switch. so far it's working OK at both heating the car and keeping the window fog free. we aint had any real freezing or snow yet. to test against that. I may need to add a secondary booster fan to handle the extra ducting.. I also got a different set of modern adjustable seats with additional storage pouches in the back. and mounted them to the original tracks. they are more comfortable then the strait back 4 door buckets, and give more room behind the wheel. and they give me a place to store my brief case and other recreational items that might go bang.
Justwondering
Well-Known Member
door weather stripping.... great idea. Does it last long? My 'cat whiskers' are getting lean on my windows.
JW
JW
