Big block in a Plymouth Volare

Lucky Charms

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Those look like mopar rockers...
I've got a 440 in my Volare with 2" headers so my problem with the same tube was more severe, I needed to moved the steering column over and got rid of the rag joint.
They are actually Crane Rockers
 

Lucky Charms

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Installed the serpentine belt pulley system from CVF racing and a Big Block aluminum radiator from Champion Cooling Systems. Wasn't thrilled with the clearance of the K-car brake booster, so I purchased a brake booster and master cylinder combo from LEEDS Brakes, part number A84. It came with 3 different brake booster to pedal rods. I used the longest, 6-1/4" brake booster rod, and it put the pedal in the factory position. I made a block off plate, used the lower 2 holes and drilled new holes for the upper booster mounting holes. Gave me really good valve cover clearance with the tall valve covers which are needed for the aftermarket rockers

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Lucky Charms

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Could you let me in on your secret to getting so much done in so little time?:cool:
I feel like 30 years ago, this would have been done in a week. I pretty much commit to putting at least 10 hours a week in to the project. The only thing slowing me down is the availability of parts.
 

Lucky Charms

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Thirty years ago I did get a ton more done than I do now. The difference between being 27 vs 57 I guess :confused:
I'll be turning 51 next week. Definitely slowing down a bit, but not making as many mistakes as I used too, so maybe it's balancing out...
 

Lucky Charms

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I went to bleed the brakes this weekend, and couldn't get any fluid out of the left front caliper. It ended up being a stuck proportioning valve. After calling around, I found replacing it would be either with a used one, which I found on eBay, or buying an aftermarket proportioning valve, and essential re-plumbing my brakes system in to it. Either choice was ordering a part, so I decided to remove the valve off the car and for several hours, worked a combination of brake fluid and compressed air through the valve. Boy, was I a mess. Finally, the valve started freeing up. I reinstalled it, and everything bled out fine. I then moved on to the gas tank, which I moved over one rib to facilitate running dual exhaust tailpipes. My only concern was if the filler neck was long enough. I did all my calculations, and did not need to extend it. 5/8" of the solid part of the filler neck extended past the inner lip of the tank seal. The only thing I need to do was extend the peening of the gas tank seam over to the rib I was using and I also needed to put a slight bend on the filler pipe to clear the inner body. Hopefully next weekend will be a little more productive...

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Paul_G

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I enjoy watching creative people like you doing what your doing. Great work. You need to make a video of the car when it is done. I am sure it is going to be a tire fryer.
 

Lucky Charms

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This weekend I installed a Winters Sidewinder floor shifter, with a built-in console, the kickdown cable and the throttle cable from Lokar. I also didn't like the way the pinion felt in the rear end, so took out the carrier and replace all the bearings, and while I was at it, I swapped out the gears from 3.23 to 3.55.
I made a plate so that the shifter would mount level and spot welded it to the floor. I like the Sidewinder shifter, because it not too complex and is really well made. I had to use cable clamps to mount the cable routing close to the floor to avoid exhaust heat and possible driveshaft rub on the cable.
The Lokar cable kit was a very nice kit to install. I used the Lokar LOK-DP 1000 HT duo pack throttle cable with the LOK-KD 2727 HT kickdown kit. I would definitely recommend this for anyone who is looking for an aftermarket throttle/kickdown cable solution.

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Paul_G

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That shifter looks really nice. Bet it was not cheap. I am surprised to see the trans cross member only has 1 bolt per side.
 

Lucky Charms

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The shifter was $220.00 plus tax through Summit Racing. I was trying to get the Turbo Action shifter. They are over $400, but no one had it in stock. After a little research, I decided on the Winters Sidewinder shifter. Very happy with it and for over half the cost of the Turbo Action shifter.
In regards to the crossmember, there was only one hole in the frame on either side and one bolt hole in the crossmember on either side. Are there supposed to be more than that? The car didn't come with a crossmember, so I bought one used off of eBay. Everything seemed to line up like it was correct. I would appreciate any input. Last thing I need to do is leave my transmission on the street, lol
 

Paul_G

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I am not that familiar with Volare/Aspen models. Mopar used 2 bolts per side in previous cars like B and E body's. If there is only 1 bolt per side in floor support, that is all they used. If you are not planning crazy big power it might be enough. That 383 is probably going to make 400Ft#'s. After you have some miles on it I would take a look at the cross member again, just to be sure it can hold the power.
 

Lucky Charms

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I am not that familiar with Volare/Aspen models. Mopar used 2 bolts per side in previous cars like B and E body's. If there is only 1 bolt per side in floor support, that is all they used. If you are not planning crazy big power it might be enough. That 383 is probably going to make 400Ft#'s. After you have some miles on it I would take a look at the cross member again, just to be sure it can hold the power.
Thank you Paul. I will keep an eye on it. The crossmember seems pretty sturdy, but I will go over everything after I put a few hundred miles on the car.
 

BudW

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F and M-bodies (and some J's) all use 2-bolt (total) crossmembers.
All other Chrysler Rear Wheel Drive cars use 4-bolt crossmembers - which I think was because of the rear torsion bar stress.
BudW
 

Lucky Charms

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F and M-bodies (and some J's) all use 2-bolt (total) crossmembers.
All other Chrysler Rear Wheel Drive cars use 4-bolt crossmembers - which I think was because of the rear torsion bar stress.
BudW
Thanks Bud for the info. That makes complete sense now
 

Lucky Charms

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Installed the oil pressure gauge and the water temp gauge. Still have to install the volt gauge. I picked up a paint stirrer at the hardware store. Some of the smaller ones use a 5/16" hex shaft which works perfect for priming the oil pump. Spun the pump and oil pressure came right up. Planning on working on the wiring this weekend. Hopefully I will get close to firing up the engine.

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Duke5A

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I wanted to post a video of the car. Not sure how to upload or attach. Any ideas?

You can only host photos on the forum itself. Videos have to be embedded from somewhere else like YouTube. Do you have a Google account or a YouTube account?
 
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