cheap header thoughts?

Engines, Exhaust and Fuel Systems

  1. rcmaniac791

    rcmaniac791 Well-Known Member

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    stumbled across these on the old interwebs:

    Long Tube Exhaust Headers Fits Dodge Chrysler Plymouth Small Block 318 340 360 | eBay

    I'm having a stainless system made up in about a month and I'm thinking about replacing the manifolds due to condition and some minor exhaust leaks. I don't have a 4bbl swap on the list anytime soon, so I don't want to dump a lot of money into headers for no real performance benefit. However, these seem decent, but super cheap. Thoughts? Or does anyone have any recommendations for good inexpensive headers for an m-body with a 97% stock 318?
     
  2. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    They look like a deal to me, the only header you would have to buy. Headers are still one of the first modifications I do because of the need for a free flowing exhaust in future mods.
     
  3. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Wow, those are stainless?? Probably 409, but still. The motor will need to be raised off the mounts a couple inches for installation on one side. You won't notice any gains, but the exhaust note will definitely sound nicer.
     
  4. volare 77

    volare 77 Well-Known Member

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    I would read the reviews. Some people were saying they were junk and warped. I can`t imagine them being quality at that price.
     
  5. jasperjacko

    jasperjacko Well-Known Member

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    the old saying applies here... good won't be cheap, and cheap won't be good. Also, you don't want headers that hang below the steering/drag link on the drivers side. You will smash them on the ground.
     
  6. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

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    They are better then the coated headmans at $375 that the coating started to peal off, the fit and install was easier. It says 60 day return if not happy. Yes they hang a bit low but ive never dented a set with reasonable driving. 5/8 tubes with a 3 inch system was enough to support a 435hp iron headed small block so id think these would work close to 400 with that tube size.

    I needed to lower hanging set to hook to sidepipes and my tti-s would of made it harder. Yes TTI and Dougs under chassis are nice but really other then design they are cleaning up with the selling price. Ive debated selling my tti-s but id never justify buying another set, id have a better set made.

    Someone needs to send the chinaman a set of tti-s and see how well they can do.
     
  7. AJ/FormS

    AJ/FormS Well-Known Member

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    Might be a lil tricky keeping the plugwires from burning up on the driver's side there. Better plan on buying a couple of socks for 5 and 7
     
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  8. jasperjacko

    jasperjacko Well-Known Member

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    excellent point
     
  9. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

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    MSD wires give more the 1/4 gap, they never burn. Oem, boots probably need boots, but they have decent boot kits on ebay for like $22.

    Id be tempted to try oem with the proper clips on the oem valve cover. Who knows.

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    Last edited: Apr 2, 2019
  10. MBDale

    MBDale Well-Known Member

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    I’ve got Heddmans on my ‘79 Aspen RT with a 360. I’d recommend using the Fel-Pro performance header gaskets and ARP header bolts. I also want to modify a 3/8 Ratchet wrench to get the drivers side very rear header bolt. It’s tight with a vacuum booster in there.
     
  11. AJ/FormS

    AJ/FormS Well-Known Member

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    The corners of the heads have studs in the holes on account of those go into the water jackets. If you sub Allen-socket bolts in there, you solve one problem, while creating another;namely leaks. But worse is;sometimes when you try to remove the studs they break. Then you'll wish you never had that idea,lol.
     
  12. MBDale

    MBDale Well-Known Member

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    So I modified a wrench this morning. Gets cylinder 7 rear header bolt tight. If you’ve got headers, I suggest this.

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  13. ch1ll

    ch1ll Active Member

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    one size fits all? does it say what gauge steel tubing is used?
     
  14. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    I talked my Dad into trying these headers out for his 408 Diplomat coupe. For the price I figured why not roll the dice? They came in yesterday and are actually really well build. Flanges are mild steel like I figured, but are nice and thick. The rest is stainless and the tubes are probably 14 or 16 gauge. Very nice. Can't speak to fitment yet as that won't happen until summer.

    Dragging the pipes on the road will still be an issue though just like the Hooker and Headman mild steel versions. If you upgrade your torsion bars with the Firm Feel 300# units this issue goes away entirely.

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  15. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    How are the flanges to the head, are they flat? If not that can be fixed buy a belt sanded at the machine shop.
     
  16. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Not horrible. Would probably flatten right out with the bolts drawn in.

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  17. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    I've got a set of gaskets for my Ford I'll have to see what there called, if I remember there a copper color and twice as thick as normal but are supposed to seal like crazy.
     
  18. rcmaniac791

    rcmaniac791 Well-Known Member

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    They honestly look better than I expected. How badly do headers drag on these cars? My front is lowered about an inch so just curious on clearance.
     
  19. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    It really depends on how you drive the car and quality of the roads where you live. There is an intersection by my old house with two massive dips in it. If you went through at speed coming down off of the second dip would bottom the driver's header out. This was with my car already sitting higher than stock. Speed bumps were always lots of fun too. My dad on the other hand never bottomed his out for the two years he had factory torsion bars on the car.

    Honestly, it's a crapshoot. The factory front torsion bars on these cars are very soft and the these style of headers where three pipes go under the steering link hang low. I would at least raise the car back up to factory ride height before installing any header that hangs under the link. You could be fine after that.

    The only real surefire way around this is to use a header where all four pipes go over the steering link (these are stupid expensive) or upgrade the torsion bars like I did (also expensive).
     
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  20. MBDale

    MBDale Well-Known Member

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    Running a 15 inch rim makes a difference on ride height too. How much difference do the Firm Feel front torsion bars make Duke5A?