cheap header thoughts?

rcmaniac791

rcmaniac791

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2015
Messages
225
Reaction score
68
stumbled across these on the old interwebs:

Long Tube Exhaust Headers Fits Dodge Chrysler Plymouth Small Block 318 340 360 | eBay

I'm having a stainless system made up in about a month and I'm thinking about replacing the manifolds due to condition and some minor exhaust leaks. I don't have a 4bbl swap on the list anytime soon, so I don't want to dump a lot of money into headers for no real performance benefit. However, these seem decent, but super cheap. Thoughts? Or does anyone have any recommendations for good inexpensive headers for an m-body with a 97% stock 318?
 
They look like a deal to me, the only header you would have to buy. Headers are still one of the first modifications I do because of the need for a free flowing exhaust in future mods.
 
Wow, those are stainless?? Probably 409, but still. The motor will need to be raised off the mounts a couple inches for installation on one side. You won't notice any gains, but the exhaust note will definitely sound nicer.
 
I would read the reviews. Some people were saying they were junk and warped. I can`t imagine them being quality at that price.
 
the old saying applies here... good won't be cheap, and cheap won't be good. Also, you don't want headers that hang below the steering/drag link on the drivers side. You will smash them on the ground.
 
They are better then the coated headmans at $375 that the coating started to peal off, the fit and install was easier. It says 60 day return if not happy. Yes they hang a bit low but ive never dented a set with reasonable driving. 5/8 tubes with a 3 inch system was enough to support a 435hp iron headed small block so id think these would work close to 400 with that tube size.

I needed to lower hanging set to hook to sidepipes and my tti-s would of made it harder. Yes TTI and Dougs under chassis are nice but really other then design they are cleaning up with the selling price. Ive debated selling my tti-s but id never justify buying another set, id have a better set made.

Someone needs to send the chinaman a set of tti-s and see how well they can do.
 
MSD wires give more the 1/4 gap, they never burn. Oem, boots probably need boots, but they have decent boot kits on ebay for like $22.

Id be tempted to try oem with the proper clips on the oem valve cover. Who knows.

DSC00254.JPG
 
Last edited:
I’ve got Heddmans on my ‘79 Aspen RT with a 360. I’d recommend using the Fel-Pro performance header gaskets and ARP header bolts. I also want to modify a 3/8 Ratchet wrench to get the drivers side very rear header bolt. It’s tight with a vacuum booster in there.
 
The corners of the heads have studs in the holes on account of those go into the water jackets. If you sub Allen-socket bolts in there, you solve one problem, while creating another;namely leaks. But worse is;sometimes when you try to remove the studs they break. Then you'll wish you never had that idea,lol.
 
I talked my Dad into trying these headers out for his 408 Diplomat coupe. For the price I figured why not roll the dice? They came in yesterday and are actually really well build. Flanges are mild steel like I figured, but are nice and thick. The rest is stainless and the tubes are probably 14 or 16 gauge. Very nice. Can't speak to fitment yet as that won't happen until summer.

Dragging the pipes on the road will still be an issue though just like the Hooker and Headman mild steel versions. If you upgrade your torsion bars with the Firm Feel 300# units this issue goes away entirely.

20190420_153651.jpg


20190420_153300.jpg


20190420_153248.jpg


20190420_153225.jpg
 
How are the flanges to the head, are they flat? If not that can be fixed buy a belt sanded at the machine shop.
 
I've got a set of gaskets for my Ford I'll have to see what there called, if I remember there a copper color and twice as thick as normal but are supposed to seal like crazy.
 
They honestly look better than I expected. How badly do headers drag on these cars? My front is lowered about an inch so just curious on clearance.
 
rcmaniac791 said:
They honestly look better than I expected. How badly do headers drag on these cars? My front is lowered about an inch so just curious on clearance.
Click to expand...

It really depends on how you drive the car and quality of the roads where you live. There is an intersection by my old house with two massive dips in it. If you went through at speed coming down off of the second dip would bottom the driver's header out. This was with my car already sitting higher than stock. Speed bumps were always lots of fun too. My dad on the other hand never bottomed his out for the two years he had factory torsion bars on the car.

Honestly, it's a crapshoot. The factory front torsion bars on these cars are very soft and the these style of headers where three pipes go under the steering link hang low. I would at least raise the car back up to factory ride height before installing any header that hangs under the link. You could be fine after that.

The only real surefire way around this is to use a header where all four pipes go over the steering link (these are stupid expensive) or upgrade the torsion bars like I did (also expensive).
 
Running a 15 inch rim makes a difference on ride height too. How much difference do the Firm Feel front torsion bars make Duke5A?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top