Dare I?

[Kermit]

Not an M, but I drive my 79 Aspen daily in crazy ass Vegas traffic. Temps have already hit over 100, and the wagon takes it like a champ. Just drove it up over 7500ft to Mt.Charleston not a hiccup. Put a little over 2k miles a month on it. Still has lean burn, but with edelbrock carb. Avg about 15 mpg.

 

[Jonnyuma]

A lot to read through here, but nothing I would disagree with.
My biased opinion is that the 5A, updated with fuel injection, and possibly a couple of other convenience items (R-134 a/c, seat heaters, modern stereo, etc) would make a fantastic daily driver... especially one as nice as the two you're referring to in the OP.
A few upgrades, none of em mandatory or urgent, possibly updated suspension bits and brakes would make it as good as (or better than) new.

Or... buy a decommissioned cop Charger... all that stuff is already done.

 

[Duke5A]

I'm going to go the opposite direction on this: don't buy a 30 year old car for general transportation if you can't turn your own wrenches. Age aside, stay away from fleet models like AHB or P71 Vics unless they were cream puff fire department cars or something along those lines. These cars were made and purchased to be abused.

I love my 5A and being as unbiased as possible I think the engineering and build quality of these cars was excellent. But these things are getting to the point where you need to special order brake parts and the guys that knew how to work on them are dying off/retiring.

My advice, do a diligent amount of homework on newer models (ten years old) that fit what you need out of a car and have a good record for reliability. Then go South to get it.

 

[Kermit]

I'm going to go the opposite direction on this: don't buy a 30 year old car for general transportation if you can't turn your own wrenches. Age aside, stay away from fleet models like AHB or P71 Vics unless they were cream puff fire department cars or something along those lines. These cars were made and purchased to be abused.

I love my 5A and being as unbiased as possible I think the engineering and build quality of these cars was excellent. But these things are getting to the point where you need to special order brake parts and the guys that knew how to work on them are dying off/retiring.

My advice, do a diligent amount of homework on newer models (ten years old) that fit what you need out of a car and have a good record for reliability. Then go South to get it.

I agree with Duke, if you want modern conveniences, get a modern car. Also cherry 5a's sell for less than 2k around here(southwest) even with shipping you will come ahead, or just drive it home.

 

[Oldiron440]

I've been Considering an older mopar for my driver, but parts availability just isn't there, there's nothing used anymore. And I don't have room for a fleet of parts cars. So im probably going to do what iv been doing for the last twenty years and find what I want four years old with 30k on the clock.

 

[Justwondering]

Agree about the parts car; HOWEVER, flirting with the guys at the parts counter is half the fun of maintaining the car.

Although, I must admit the two ladies that work there are more adept at finding the name and actual strange parts I need for the cars and tractors.

So maybe you should find a parts department with some ladies working behind the counter....

JW

 

[Jonnyuma]

You can daily drive and maintain an older vehicle without a fleet of parts-cars in your yard. If you're not attempting a restoration and you start with a well-maintained car there should be no issues that aren't routine.
This is where I say, "However... ", it's a good idea to have a back-up vehicle, preferably a truck, available.
I pd $1000 for my 93 F150 when my $400 Mazda pu needed head work (a no-go on a $400 truck) which I wheeled for 5 years prior the the valve seals disintegrating. Both the Ford and the Mazda had the three qualities that I require in a backup: Cheap. Reliable. I have 0 desire to modify or spend money on them beyond maintenance items.
I drove my 76 Cordoba to work 5 days a week... about 45 mi round trip, and it was a complete pile compared to the cars @drpreposterous is looking at.

 

[BudW]

Call me bias (I guess). I would rather work with part counter ladies over men for several reasons (politer, generally can type better, better language skills and so on) – BUT I’m generally in/out of part stores faster than most people are, to begin with.
When I go into a store, I already have the brand name and part number(s) already written down, I already know if on shelf/must order, and so on – which makes the conversation with counter person quick ( . . . if not ordered online).
BudW

 

[Jonnyuma]

I would rather work with part counter ladies over men

I use the national chains (mostly Auto Zone for proximity/convenience) for some generic stuff, but go to NAPA or Baxter's (a regional chain) for filters (Wix) or anything I might need some help sussing-out. The counter boys and girls at A-Zone might as well be folding T-shirts at The Gap for all of their product knowledge. But the geezers at NAPA or Baxter's can actually be helpful when trying to find fittings to go from "this" to "this" or similar "close enough to work" scenarios.

 

[80mirada]

My local Autozone has a couple of retired Mechanics, and a young woman in her twenties. She grew up Mopar, and knows her stuff better than the guys do. The ladies at NAPA are super helpful, and the manager is a retired Snap-on driver.

 

[Oldiron440]

I like Napa for the heavy equipment and tractor filter needs.

 

[78VOLAREWAG]

I like Napa for the heavy equipment and tractor filter needs.

I worked for an independent parts store for over 19 years, so I'm still rather biased. I HATE going into any of those places that will charge you $6 for a package of 2 light bulbs that I sold over the counter for 35 cents each. We had 5 countermen and 11 trucks on the road.

 

[BudW]

I HATE going . . . that will charge you $6 for a package of 2 light bulbs . . .

That bothers me, as well.

About a dozen years ago (or so), I decided to get a bunch (a large box full) of automotive light bulbs on eBay, where I can get a box (of 10) bulbs for about the price of a 2-pack from a parts store (about $5-6 (US) for a card of two).

Example of a 1157 (taillight) bulb from eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-1157-BAY15D-21-5W-Car-Reverse-Backup-Stop-Brake-Tail-Light-Bulb-White/173070706858?hash=item284bd168aa:g:dQgAAOSwxfdau0KR $3.40 (US) for a box of 10 (including freight).

There are four cars in my fleet that are daily driven: My ’77 Volare, ’86 Fifth Ave, ’97 Dodge pickup and wife’s ’02 Town and Country.
The ’77 and ’86 share a lot of same bulbs – but can’t say the same about the other two vehicles (which is a lot of bulbs to keep tabs on).


On a somewhat unrelated note, I bought a box of 194 bulbs (instrument cluster/side marker) bulbs on eBay about five years ago. It was a box of 100 (yes, one hundred) of clear Halogen 194 bulbs for about $10 (US). These were not incandescent bulbs that are normally used - but Halogen. What a HUGE difference on dash visibility using Halogen!

I highly recommend everyone install the Halogen dash bulbs in their dash!
Note: Halogen bulbs are brighter and use less electricity than what incandescent bulbs use – so a Win/Win by using them.

I didn’t see a 100-pack of Halogen 194’s on eBay (just now) but did find a 50-pack for $6.93 (US). including freight. https://www.ebay.com/itm/50x-Clear-Halogen-Bulb-T10-Side-Marker-lamp-Light-194-W5W-12V-5W-Yellow/361231727588?epid=1761175743&hash=item541b16bbe4:g:96UAAOSwC19bABM8
BudW

 

[drpreposterous]

Final call: my d-day comes soon.

Some have said, go modern. Some have said I could manage reasonably writing checks for a solid foundation M. My needs are simple: three commuting days--150 miles.

The contender: a 70k mile '86 FA (you've seen the gold one) for $4k. The champ (of common sense): an '08 Grand Marquis with 70k going for $6k

If I sink $2k (maybe even $3k) into belts, hoses, electronic ignition, new alternator/mini-starter, fluid changes, tune-up, clean out fuel tank, re-do brakes...will the M stand a chance? Remember: I do not wrench.

Hear this again: NOT EXPECTING the M WILL BE AS SAFE OR FUEL EFFICIENT as the '08. Just looking for reliable daily with character (M has character, modern car does not). And I value your collective and individual opinions. If the tide is not at least two-third thumbs up, I shall retire, regretfully to world of jelly beaned, angry kitchen appliance, melted bar of soap "cars."

The contenders:
1986 Chrysler Fifth Avenue
vs.
2008 Mercury Grand Marquis V8 *Only 70k Miles* extra clean*

 

[old yellow 78]

I think you have already made up your mind for the Chrysler. Not a bad decision at all, but these two cars are really pretty different. Nobody will look twice at the Mercury, but the Chrysler will draw some attention which is always fun. The Mercury looks comfortable and well equipped, but Justwondering says they are uncomfortable. I've never been in one. The Chrysler would certainly be comfortable and is equally well equipped for it's time (it's 22 years older than the Mercury). You say the safety issue is a non-factor, but the Mercury would win that one. The 318 is a wonderful reliable engine. I have not found Ford to be so. I had a six cylinder Ford 3.8 in a Taurus that was a POS. The Tritan 5.? in my F150 is no better than fair, and I don't trust it particularly. One issue between your two candidates might be emissions inspection if you have that in your area. I suspect the Mercury would more easily pass emissions, but might not be a problem. Good luck with your decision!

 

[drpreposterous]

Michigan doesn't test emissions...
Thanks for your take!

 

[Oldiron440]

I make no secret that I'm a Ford/Mopar guy so I think I'm as fair as you will get.
The two car have twenty two years between them and that in itself is an unfair comparison. Parts availability, now and in the future, safety, fuel economy. I have had several 4.6 and 5.4 Ford's and not one used oil or had mechanical problems of any kind, I run synthetic oil 10K. I think if you were doing local driving the Chrysler whould be could but loug commutes I'd go with the mercury hands down.
I look back in the late 80s early 90s I drove new Mopar and went to Ford because of the problems with there cars. I had a new Chrysler that used 2 qt of oil every 3K and Chrysler said it was not excessive.
If the merk was in Des Moines I might be driving it today.

 

[Justwondering]

Fifth Avenue....
You will smile every time your foot pushes on the accelerator.
Your bo-honk-us will appreciate the cushy seat.
Your mechanic will love having a large engine compartment to work in and the fact that everything is accessible without having to removing half of the items in the engine to get to something simple like the the thermostat.
JW

 

[drpreposterous]

Ya know, our fellow FFMJBO member, 440BelII, has his'80 Aspen with a built 360, fresh 904 and SureGrip rear. That work done on that car seems to promise it could deliver the goods, in terms of reliability...Still listed on Rochester CL
'80 Dodge Aspen / Mopar Muscle

 

[77 LeBaron]

Good find Bud I ordered the Fifty pack I had replaced my dash bulbs with halogen green it just does not seem right. Will the bulbs work in the high beam indicator bulb socket ? The green ones would not work in the high beam socket for me. Thanks again for the find

That bothers me, as well.

About a dozen years ago (or so), I decided to get a bunch (a large box full) of automotive light bulbs on eBay, where I can get a box (of 10) bulbs for about the price of a 2-pack from a parts store (about $5-6 (US) for a card of two).

Example of a 1157 (taillight) bulb from eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-1157-BAY15D-21-5W-Car-Reverse-Backup-Stop-Brake-Tail-Light-Bulb-White/173070706858?hash=item284bd168aa:g:dQgAAOSwxfdau0KR $3.40 (US) for a box of 10 (including freight).

There are four cars in my fleet that are daily driven: My ’77 Volare, ’86 Fifth Ave, ’97 Dodge pickup and wife’s ’02 Town and Country.
The ’77 and ’86 share a lot of same bulbs – but can’t say the same about the other two vehicles (which is a lot of bulbs to keep tabs on).


On a somewhat unrelated note, I bought a box of 194 bulbs (instrument cluster/side marker) bulbs on eBay about five years ago. It was a box of 100 (yes, one hundred) of clear Halogen 194 bulbs for about $10 (US). These were not incandescent bulbs that are normally used - but Halogen. What a HUGE difference on dash visibility using Halogen!

I highly recommend everyone install the Halogen dash bulbs in their dash!
Note: Halogen bulbs are brighter and use less electricity than what incandescent bulbs use – so a Win/Win by using them.

I didn’t see a 100-pack of Halogen 194’s on eBay (just now) but did find a 50-pack for $6.93 (US). including freight. https://www.ebay.com/itm/50x-Clear-Halogen-Bulb-T10-Side-Marker-lamp-Light-194-W5W-12V-5W-Yellow/361231727588?epid=1761175743&hash=item541b16bbe4:g:96UAAOSwC19bABM8
BudW