I’ve uttered a few, err a lot of, unmentionable words while working on those front FMJ shocks.
Note: ’75-81 B & R body front shocks are very close to FMJ's.
The (top) stud/nut is exposed to the elements and can be a bear to remove.
There is an official tool that goes over top shock stud. You are to use an end wrench to twist the nut while holding the stud stationary.
A small socket/socket wrench works OK to hold stud still (in place of the special tool) . . . but 98% of the time – the nut ain’t gowna budge (because of rust).
When the 2% of the time doesn’t work, my go to is a nut cracker . . . but sometimes that doesn’t get the job done.
Other methods I’ve used are:
- Grind down one flat of nut as close to threads as possible and use a socket (doesn’t work very well).
- Grind down the entire surface of stud and nut (takes a lot of time – not in a good working area to begin with.
- lastly, Remove the shock with the top plate as an assembly, then either place shock in a vice and unscrew or use a Sawzall and cut end off through the rubber bushing.
There are four bolts that hold the top place to K-frame. You can either do this with upper control arm still attached (but upper ball joint disconnected from spindle) or remove upper control arm from top plate. I think leaving the control arm attached is a lot faster.
If you disconnect the upper control arm from top plate, the car will need an alignment.
If you remove the plate with arm attached, the alignment will not be affected – except for torsion bar adjustment (if loosened).
The lower nut can be a problem – but not to the extent of a problem the top nut is. Also, you can grab ahold of the lower shock part (which generally damages the shock beyond reuse, when you do) to assist loosening the lower nut. There is nothing (else) to grab ahold of on when loosening the top nut.
I hadn’t put this to action yet, but I think I might have a cure for future front shock replacements. Once replaced, go find some rubber stud protectors and place on top both studs (upper and lower) with enough grease to coat the threads, first.
That way rust will NOT create new curse words, the next time a person changes shocks.
Note: I hadn’t tried this yet, but suspect it should work.
BudW