The lug stud part numbers are listed (below). This is from RockAuto.com – but using the vender name and part number – you should be able to find something.
With a press or a large C-clamp, the lug studs are not too difficult to replace (I’ve replaced hundreds of them (or more) before.
If desperate, a person can use a large nut, and use an existing lug nut to help pull the stud through – but it is hard on the stud and destructive to the “large nut” and to your existing lug nut (a press or huge C-clamp is much easier).
Before replacing any studs, be sure to remove brake rotor from car and remove wheel bearings from existing brake rotor/hub. The bearing races inside of the rotor/hub should be shiny, with no scratches or discoloration. If bearing races are not shiny, then you would be better off getting a replacement brake rotor (and new wheel bearings).
Most people forget a person needs to clean and repack our FMJ front wheel bearings every 30k miles (48k km) or during every front brake job (which for most people is also every 30k miles) – or you will experience wheel bearing failure. It is no fun driving, hearing a noise, then seeing your front tire continue down the road while the rest of car grinds to a sudden stop on the road.
I like that style aluminum wheels – which only came installed on early M-body cars. It will fit most all of Chrysler vehicles made in that era. I would not trust your damaged wheel trust because of the damage from driving car with loose lug nuts (from broken studs) – but it might be repairable with someone who can weld and re-machine back to specifications. I hadn’t heard of that process being done before – but in theory it should be doable. It may be easier and cheaper to find a replacement wheel (or wheels).
All 14” or 15” Chrysler wheels that use the 5x4.5” (5x114.3 mm) bolt pattern will fit and work fine. Many other car make wheels will also fit/work fine, but your experience may vary.
The wheels from the car pictured in post #8 will work fine (but you might have other options, as well).
If you are going to look at that car - you might also check to see if it has a 7¼” or 8¼” differential in it – and if it has a 8¼”, to grab it with the propeller shaft (if at all possible).
Finding an exact copy of existing aluminum wheel is possible, but highly unlikely.
BudW