Aspen500
Well-Known Member
You need one of these. It's a 24", 1/2" drive ratchet. Like a breaker bar only better since you can ratchet the handle exactly where you need it.
general questions.
- Thread starter SonOfaTomP
- Start date
SonOfaTomP
Well-Known Member
a new question. so i listen to my music with a bluetooth FM adaptor in my cig lighter. one morning something just popped and the radio went all static. bluetooth wouldn't work, radio could only pick up AM. i tossed the old radio and got a newish 90s Chrysler radio from a Jeep. it works yes but still, FM comes in very fuzzy. i can't crank my tunes like i used to as even with a brand new FM Transmitter, it sounds like you're playing a dirty vinyl record. my antenna and it's wire look fine. all the fuses are good too. sadly the tape deck was shot on both radios. do i just try again with another new radio or what do i do? i had always wanted a Chrysler radio with the silver front. thx
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you blew out a couple of speakers
SonOfaTomP
Well-Known Member
music will sound ok at lower volumes but still. that whole sounding like a vinyl record thing. and i don't get why FM is hard to pick up now.
Lightning II
Well-Known Member
I think there’s a guy on eBay that redoes the older Chrysler radios to have a Bluetooth function. I don’t know what his name is though.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
It's odd both have the same problem but unless there's something wrong with the camera or the ground not hooked up causing the problem there's not much more with the car that could affect both.
SonOfaTomP
Well-Known Member
must be the antenna. but i see nothing wrong with its wire. other than it popped out where its glued into its hole. ground looked fine last i took it out. replacements aren't expensive but i just don't wanna do a pain in the ass task and it do nothing. i guess i can take the dash apart again and check one more time. those bluetooth radios are EXPENSIVE! I guess if that is my only option it is what it is.
ok another question. i guess this car was used to box someone in during it's life as an unmarked Baltimore County Police car. is it possible to pull this back out? i recall my father tried tying it to a tree a long time ago to no avail. and with how rusty it is now we'd probably rip the thing in half lol
but i
ok another question. i guess this car was used to box someone in during it's life as an unmarked Baltimore County Police car. is it possible to pull this back out? i recall my father tried tying it to a tree a long time ago to no avail. and with how rusty it is now we'd probably rip the thing in half lol
GregG48213
Well-Known Member
SonOfaTomP
Well-Known Member
Pair Of Rear Bumper Shock Absorber 78 Le Baron Diplomat NOS MOPAR 4014889 | eBay
Part Number: 4014889. Fits 2 Door Special Coupe Models. We also carry a variety of A, B, C and E-Body parts. THE INDY CYLINDER HEAD CHRYSLER SHOW. ALSO WE ARE ALWAYS SET UP AT THE CARLISLE ALL CHRYSLER NATIONALS.
www.ebay.com
70s one will do just fine?
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Aspen500
Well-Known Member
The 2nd one is (was) a front unit.
This is from a '79 parts book (so may not apply to later years) for Diplomat and LeBaron rear bumper absorber, however:
4014888 wagon
4014889 2 dr
4014891 4dr
If the catalog is correct, the 4014889 don't fit a 4dr. What the difference is, no idea, lol.
This is from a '79 parts book (so may not apply to later years) for Diplomat and LeBaron rear bumper absorber, however:
4014888 wagon
4014889 2 dr
4014891 4dr
If the catalog is correct, the 4014889 don't fit a 4dr. What the difference is, no idea, lol.
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SonOfaTomP
Well-Known Member
would you happen to know the part number for 80+ 4 door? or you think 4014891 would work just fine?
Mopar A B E Body 2 BBL Carburetor Air Cleaner Assembly 72 73 Dart Cuda Charger | eBay
You are buying a Mopar 2bbl single snorkel air cleaner assembly. Not sure what it is technically correct for. Good shape, the lid does have a very small rust spot on the edge, see picture. No dents I see, is used so you may want to clean it up and repaint but still looks good as is.
www.ebay.com
think this will fit our cars? mine has a BBD
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Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I only have a '79 catalog. I do know '79 and '80 F-body has a slightly different rear absorber. It's only a difference in the hole location where the plate bolts to the rear crossmember though, so it's easily modified to fit either year. Does that apply also to M-body? Don't know for sure.
1972 and '73 Barracuda, Charger, etc had a BBD. It LOOKS like the right air horn opening for a 318 BBD.
The 383/400/440 and 360 two barrel had a larger air horn (and larger carb base plate).
1972 and '73 Barracuda, Charger, etc had a BBD. It LOOKS like the right air horn opening for a 318 BBD.
The 383/400/440 and 360 two barrel had a larger air horn (and larger carb base plate).
The M-bodies are great cars. They had their quirks. Not all '87 and early '88 models had the flimsy k-member. Many did.
The problem is now that these are all 35+ year old cars. None of the dealer techs (and probably most of the independent shop techs) who worked on them back in the day have long since retired.
The F/M/J front suspension is the one thing on these cars, where an owner would have to do a thorough search for an alignment tech who understands how to repair and adjust them. The only real way to do this anymore is to first determine the status of the k-frame, and have it repaired if necessary. Then, replace all the bushings and worn parts (front and rear), then have it properly aligned to (not within) spec.
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
I'll agree with you there, ain't nobody putting an M body in spec. Even body on frame cars get a little twist in them after that many years.
SonOfaTomP
Well-Known Member
i should ask that shop guy what he meant then. he mentioned something about front camber but i'd never noticed uneven tire wear and no other shop i'd taken the car to ever mentioned it. even when i got my tires replaced
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
If camber was off excessively, you'd notice more wear on the inner edge of the tire than the rest.
In most cases on an F/M/J, if it's at the limit of adjustment but still too far negative, installing the shims between the upper control arm bracket and k-frame "tower", will take care of it. Either the factory TSB shims (can be found on ebay once in a while), or homemade equivelents. My Aspen had the problem, and installing a set of NOS tsb shims got the camber (and caster) dead nuts on the preffered angles.
This is an excellent write up by BudW on the front suspension:
Alignment problems?
In most cases on an F/M/J, if it's at the limit of adjustment but still too far negative, installing the shims between the upper control arm bracket and k-frame "tower", will take care of it. Either the factory TSB shims (can be found on ebay once in a while), or homemade equivelents. My Aspen had the problem, and installing a set of NOS tsb shims got the camber (and caster) dead nuts on the preffered angles.
This is an excellent write up by BudW on the front suspension:
Alignment problems?
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I have to laugh about the shims. I remember when the shim packages first came out, some of the '87 and early '88 squads in my area were so bad, the dealer techs would stack the shims. What happened then is the shock towers would crack. The k-frame itself, outside of that issue, would generally split at the seams, which was easy to fix, you just check for square, and welded them solid. Once the shock towers cracked, the only permanent fix was a new k-frame. The reason all of this happened was they had a lot of leftover k-frames, when the cars were moved from Fenton to KAP. Chrysler tried to kill off the M-body every single year, so there was very little money spent on the cars, just slap em together and get them on the autoracks for shipping. When the assembly appartus was sent to KAP, they sent the pile of k-frames with. By the time Chrysler started getting reports back regarding the marked increase in k-frame failures, they decided to figure out the problem, and they actually did something about it. First, the dealers stacking the shims caught holy hell. Why? It created a new warranty claim for new k-frames, which wasn't cheap. Second, they had A.O. Smith in Milwaukee stamp up a new batch of "revised" k-frames, beginning in spring of '88. While it's hard to say just what they changed, the late '88 and '89 models didn't have any issues.
SonOfaTomP
Well-Known Member
ok so who wants to hear a dumb question? so i've heard about the supposed glory of Ethanol Free gas. so where i live (Baltimore Metro Area) this is something extremely rare unless i went down to the boat Marina which is something i likely can't do. there is however one gas station just over the state line selling E-0. think is this gas is 90 Octane. now my gas cap does say "Premium Recommended" but the last time i put 90 in the car with e-10 the car ran like shit. i always fill up with 87 and the car seems fine. what do yall fill up with and is it worth me going up to Pennsylvania to fill up with E-0 O-90? i drive my car everyday as it is my only car so i don't know if i'll be able to make this trip weekly but i'd like to try it at least once
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
Have you tried Royal Farms? Link: Ethanol-free gas locations - Royal Farms
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Not sure about where you are, but the pumps here say "May contain up to 10% ethanol". Testing shows it's really anywhere from 0% up to 6%. That's 87 octane. Premium 91 is all ethanol free. There are a few stations with ethanol free 87 octane also (about 20 cents more per gal)
Either way, gas now is formulated for EFI, which is a closed system under high pressure, and doesn't always play nice with a carb, especially in hot weather.
Either way, gas now is formulated for EFI, which is a closed system under high pressure, and doesn't always play nice with a carb, especially in hot weather.
