Heavy Metal Hell raiser

F Body General Discussion

  1. 76SassyGrassVolare

    76SassyGrassVolare Well-Known Member

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    I don’t think so , 78/79 tanks are flat, no hump, and larger than that , I did a search for different Mopar tanks , looks like a B Body tank for say a 74 Satellite
     
  2. greymouser7

    greymouser7 Well-Known Member

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  3. greymouser7

    greymouser7 Well-Known Member

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    Tons of sanding, Ospho, etching primer, & then epoxy primer.

    Transmission has been rebuilt.
    I bought: rims, tires, brake lines, fuel lines, manual steering adapter from firm feel & manual pitman arm, tube bender, tube flaring kit,

    Am trying to figure out what I need to know to find/buy/construct a drive shaft.
    The passenger leaf spring (new) has gone flat.
     
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  4. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Lots of options on propeller shafts.
    Side note: Chrysler calls what most people call driveshafts: propeller shafts and Chrysler calls what most people call axles: driveshafts.

    This is one option: https://www.manciniracing.com/driveshafts.html .
    Another option is to go to any driveshaft shop and they can make a brand new one for about the same, or less, money.
    Even another option is to find propeller shaft from a salvage for an older mid or full side dodge vehicle (including vans and pickups) and have it cut down to size.

    Three things to keep in mind (on making or modifying a shaft):
    - U-joint size (should be a “7260”, but sometimes called a 315g or 1306, depending on manufacturer). All FMJ’s came with a “7260” except for a very few special-order police units. Note: it is not difficult to upgrade to a “7290” (or “1330”) but you would also need to replace the front and rear yokes, as well – but needed except for high performance applications.

    - Front slip yoke size. They had a small (A904/A998/A999) and a large (A727) size yokes. Both size slip yokes came with 7260 (small) and 7290 (large) size U-joints.

    - Overall length. Length is determined by: 2 vs. 4 door, A904/A998/A999 vs. A727 transmission as well as differential size (7¼” vs. 8¼” (or other)).
    If you can give some details about what you have – I might be able to tell you what length shaft you want.



    Leaf springs sag over time. Not much you can do about that except for maybe put car on stands when car is sitting – but that is not feasible for most of us.
    That said, I’m surprised to see a new one start to show sagging (mumbles something incoherent about cheap Chinese parts).

    A few choices there, as well. I recommend getting existing springs “re-arched” – which can be done by yourself or any leaf spring shop. There are a few U-tube videos about doing so (mostly for Jeeps, but process is the same). Most cars will need about 2-3” added to existing arch. If not sure, take car to a spring shop and they can help you with measuring.

    Another option is to get new springs made. This will cost 2-3 times more than getting existing re-arched (possibly).

    Even another option is to upgrade existing springs (in addition to above). Most 2/4 door FMJ’s came with 4-leaf springs (but not all). Most wagons, police, taxi and trailer towing FMJ’s (but not all) came with 5-leaf springs. I recommend starting out with a 5-leaf spring if to get a used one re-arched or new ones made.

    The down side is the lower half of rear differential ISO clamp is different (to allow for taller spring) – but this would be an excellent time to toss those ISO clamps to begin with. Much improved ride, less parts and that by itself will raise the rear end of car up 3/8 to ½”.
    BudW
     
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