k-car brake booster and 8 3/4 swap?

J Body General Discussion

  1. G code Jockey

    G code Jockey Member

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    so i recently bought a 1983 Cordoba, and now i am gathering info to do a 440 swap. i think i came across a thread somewhere that said you can user a k car brake booster to gain valve cover and header clearance. is this true?, is it a bolt in mod or are mods required? i'm also looking for info on a rear iso delete with a 65-67 b-body 8 3/4. looking at b-body shock plates. can't wait to get started in the spring, thanks.
     
  2. jasperjacko

    jasperjacko Well-Known Member

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    yes on the K car booster. I think the bolt through the pedal may be a different diameter and require a bushing. I did the swap about 28 years ago so details may be fuzzy.
     
  3. jasperjacko

    jasperjacko Well-Known Member

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    Make your life easier and use Schumacher mounts and headers.
     
  4. jasperjacko

    jasperjacko Well-Known Member

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    replace as much cast iron for aluminum and move battery to trunk to take some stress off of those torsion bars.
     
  5. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Where you at in Michigan? I'm in Macomb County. Done this swap already including the rear axle.
     
  6. G code Jockey

    G code Jockey Member

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    im in sterling heights. any pit falls to look out for?
     
  7. Kernel Sanders

    Kernel Sanders Well-Known Member

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    Yes the kcar booster is a good and easy to find part, the bolt pattern is VERY close to the original you may have to file the edge of the holes but really a non issue. you also get to use the aluminum MC!
     
  8. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    I lived in Sterling Heights a few years ago and move to Macomb Township.

    Booster will bolt right in, but as already mentioned you'll need make a sleeve for eyelet to attach the pedal as the diameter is too big. Jasper was spot on with the Shumacher mounts as well. These K frames were never intended to accept a big block and no combination of factory parts will get them to fit in properly. The kit requires a small amount of surgery on the driver's motor mount tower and the K will also need a fair amount of clearance work to make room for the oil pump and filter. Honestly, it isn't bad at all.

    Firm Feel sells parts you need to do the ISO removal. I didn't use kit on mine, but instead used B body shock plates and two plates from FF that allowed me to retain the rear sway bar.
     
  9. G code Jockey

    G code Jockey Member

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    all this i great info. i had anticipated that the k member needed moding base on the car never had i big block option. i do plan to use the schumacher kit for the swap. i managed to find a used set of there long tube tri y headers for a 440 into a dakota.the ones that are never in stock. found them dirt cheap on craigslist. might need some moding though.
     
  10. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    You got a good score on those headers. Virtually nothing fits on these cars if you retain power steering. If you want to check out my car drop me a line on here.
     
  11. G code Jockey

    G code Jockey Member

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    that sounds like a good idea. i will message you early next week.
     
  12. jasperjacko

    jasperjacko Well-Known Member

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    I used 1 7/8 hedmans for a b body back in the day and they fit pretty good. Had to remove the drip leg from the ac / heater bx. I have know idea what the part number was or if they still make them.
     
  13. jasperjacko

    jasperjacko Well-Known Member

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    I made my own driver side mount by modding a big block spool mount, and didn't have to notch the k engine mount. There were no aftermarket parts to do it back then. We live in a good time for car parts.
     
  14. Greg55_99

    Greg55_99 Well-Known Member

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    I did something similar to the drivers side motor mount in my 77 RR when I dropped in the 413. The spool mounts have a tin covered rubber insert. I peeled back the tin lip part and moved the rubber part forward a hair and pinned it with set screws. This was strictly 1980, low bucks. No Schumaker back then. Worked just fine.

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  15. jasperjacko

    jasperjacko Well-Known Member

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    I actually cut the drivers side mount in half, moved it forward about 1/2" re-welded and added some gussets.
     
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  16. Greg55_99

    Greg55_99 Well-Known Member

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    Hot Roddin' 101!
     
  17. G code Jockey

    G code Jockey Member

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    thats some good ol' enginuity right there. when running a 727 will its mount line up with the crossmember?
     
  18. Greg55_99

    Greg55_99 Well-Known Member

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    Oooo.... As I recall, I had to elongate my transmission mount about 1/4" and flip it around the other way. I ran a four speed. It wasn't perfect but it worked for me back then. CHEAP.
     
  19. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    727 and 904 along with the four speeds use the same location for the trans mount. If your moving the trans mount your motors not properly located.
    Mock up your motor/trans off the stock trans mount location and build your motor mounts to fit.
     
  20. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    Your trans mount will give you the offset that the motor needs to be square in the frame, it will also give you a baseline to set the motor at a 4 degree angle up. At that point you let the motor mounts fall were thay need to be.