My first post and it's a doozy

[5thtimesthecharm]

Well, my only other idea is that whoever did the timing chain before used the wrong eccentric and that's why all these fuel pumps are chattering, but that's a huge speculation

I don't think so. If that were the case you would think it would have been doing this before this whole timing chain swap happened.

Unfortunately I work pretty consistently starting tomorrow until next week so I'm limited in what I can do.

I'll try your sandpapering the arm down idea when I'm next able to work on it.
Unless anyone else chimes in with some kind of ray of light lol

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

So I don't know what kind of time I will have but I have a "plan" of attack.

It starts with pulling the pump out again and checking once again for outer arm marks.
If marks, I'll sand down that area, try again.

If not, then I will lube the entire arm, put it back in, start it for 5 sec, shut down, pull arm out very carefully, and hopefully there will be clearly missing lube. Sand that area.

If it works, great. If not.....well I'm not wasting more money on chains hoping for a slightly thinner one. And we know it can handle a double roller just fine. And there is no way the eccentric would make that much noise. With the pump being new well....

I have a few options.
Try to sand the whole chain side of the arm down, see if any difference.

Drill the fuel pump holes 1/16 left/oblong I think it's called, allowing it to slide to the right. Or just step them up one size in general. Allowing me to slide it a little further away from the chain.

Get a fuel pump with the chain notch. Not ideal as the cheapest one I can find online is 200$ before tax or shipping. Any cheaper are all solid arms. I can try to find a used one (or sitting on the shelf) locally, but not a high chance of that.
Edit- I can get the Carter m6270 for $185 on rockauto after tax and shipping, strangely the cheapest on there.

Electric fuel pump swap, again not ideal , not cheap (unless I get lucky) and for sure some extra work. Plus I shouldn't have to, I would rather stick with the mechanicals.

I'll update as things progress.

 

[69-]

Electric pump - I paid 8 $ at (local) Amazon for a 12v, 5-7psi pump...

But it's just a backup I have in my cars in case of breakdown of mechanical pump....

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Electric pump - I paid 8 $ at (local) Amazon for a 12v, 5-7psi pump...

But it's just a backup I have in my cars in case of breakdown of mechanical pump....

I will be doing the same, grabbing a cheapy for just in case reasons.
Unfortunately I can't run that Carter I listed without a regulator, allegedly they can run up to 10psi. Don't really want to run a regulator, so just gonna play with the arm I have for now.

It still makes me wonder what the issue is though, I mean the sprockets/ gears are bottomed out. Chain is on tight, eccentric is locked on the cam key.
So I wonder if the same thing happened when they originally replaced the single chain, and they just said to hell with it and ran it like that.....who knows

 

[Ele115]

Have you tried running it on and IV type bottle of gas with the fuel pump removed?

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Have you tried running it on and IV type bottle of gas with the fuel pump removed?

Yes, I didn't bottle it though, I just ran it long enough to fill the carb bowls, shut off, removed the pump entirely, started it up 3 times and noise is gone entirely, put the pump back and noise is back. So it is for sure an interference issue with (now two) mechanical pumps.

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

That's how pushed out the chain is.
It's difficult to see but on the one closeup there is clearly lube on the chain, I've been putting lube on the arm to figure out where it's hitting. They have definatly been kissing.

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Hopefully, solution

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Well after bending in the arm, it was still ticking. Not as much, but still present.

So tore it all back apart. Compared the new melling gears/chain to the old. 0.001" of difference.

Put it all back together once again, and now no tick......
So good news no tick, bad news, no idea what was causing it.

I looked all over, no marks on the timing cover anywhere.

The only thing I can think of that I did differently is the two bottom oil pan bolts. Previously I was only tightening those until the other bolts were able to line up elsewhere since I was using those cork replacement gaskets and didn't want to "blow them out"

This time I used regular paper gasket material, rtv in the corners, and tightened until the bolts hard stopped, would have stripped if I kept going.
Everything else torqued to spec as usual.

Of course this doesn't mean that it isn't going to leak, but for now I'll take the win.

On to intake and valve cover gaskets

 

[Mikes5thAve]

Sounds like maybe the cover or pump bolted on slightly differently the last time enough for it to clear.

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Intake off
Two or three of the intake bolts were actually loose, not horribly so, but enough that I didn't really have to "work" to get them loose.
Anyways it's actually really clean in there

 

[Aspen500]

I see it's got the usual plugged exhaust crossover ports.

I remember way back when, cleaning exhaust crossovers all the time at work. Not just Mopar, but AMC, Ford, and GM also.

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

I cleaned both of them up a little bit. Compressed air and a pick for the intake crossover. Then poked at the heads a bit, the passenger side isn't too bad, the driver side is completely plugged. I think I poked it open, but honestly hard to tell. Definatly pulled a bunch of carbon out of all ports though.

Oh and while I had it off anyways, I removed the no longer used LB sensors and plugged them. Cleaned up the intake a little as well. That's one heavy ass intake that's for sure.

Also I also learned what a pita that emissions pipe running along the driver side valve cover is. Near impossible to get the valve cover bolt behind it in and out. So I unbolted it and twisted it off, then tried to clamp it shut with vices.

Anyways this was mostly to see if it would fix the vacuum leak, and lo and behold I have a steady 19vac at 7° timing (without adjusting the carb yet)

Unfortunately I ran out of time, I set myself an alarm because I work the next two days so I had to stop here.

But next, carb adjustments.
Then coolant and lots of heavy praying for no leaks lol

 

[Aspen500]

Good deal on the vacuum problem.

Good idea to retorque the intake bolts after a couple heat cycles. More often than not they'll be loose, due to the gaskets "relaxing".

With the crossover cleaned out, the choke should work better, and if the car is driven cool or cold damp weather, it'll do wonders at preventing carb icing (in combination with the hot air system).

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Good deal, now I did not use ANY rtv on the metal gaskets themselves, just the cork end gaskets. Good sized beads in the corners of the end gaskets, thin layers on the surface both top and bottom.
Will this be a problem or should I be ok?

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Well it's been a bit, car seems to be having no leaks and no other real issues other than me being too lazy to readjust the carb. That'll be done this weekend.
It's starting to get chilly down here so she might get put away soon, but I have an idea and pitman arm to put in before then. Get her nice and drivable for next year.
I did happen on a set of snowflake rims for 160$, Just need to get some new center caps.

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Anybody have an idea of what to do when your headliner board basically disintegrates? I started picking away at the trim panels. Got a few done, looks good.
Went to drop the headliner and as soon as it was loose it dropped, hit the top of driver seat and shattered Into about 6 large pieces and multiple small parts. I still have some fiberglass (or whatever that board was made out of) in my fingers I've been trying to massage out.
So that's the next project.

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Found a replacement headliner board at the picking yard, gotta go pick it up one day soon.
And rims are on the car.
Not great pictures yet lol
Anyways I also went hard at the interior for a few days, found a beautiful piece of mouse home architecture under the rear seat once I finally got it removed. That has been destroyed, sprayed down, vacuumed and cleaned, laid down some poor man's dynomat under the seat.
All fabric trim panels have had the fabric replaced. Not gonna pretend I did a good job but I'd say passible for my first attempt and solo. Regardless it looks a ton better even with a few wrinkles vs rips and holes.
Front Window motors rebuilt.
Finished replacing normal lights with LEDs (except headlights and turn signals)

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Not sure if maybe I should put this thread to rest and start up a new on?

A lot has changed, I may have jumped the gun on a few things, came across some wicked deals, did some work. I've been slowly picking at the car again now that it's starting to warm up here.

Update and pics coming later this week.

 

[5thtimesthecharm]

Pics up.
So I know I was told not to 4b this, but I came across a wicked deal on a brand new Eddy 2176 intake, 150$ at a yard sale. Figured I might as well.

It was clear the junkyard 2280 I had wasn't up to snuff, something was wrong. And I didn't want to take my chances with another junkyard dog or an eBay special. Also the junkyard is closed for another month or two while they clean up and the yard dries from the snow/rain.

Grabbed a few odds and ends like fuel pressure gauge. Relocated the ignition coil up and on to the firewall. Valve cover studs. Finally removed and capped off that pipe that runs between the exhaust manifolds Slightly higher temp thermostat. Cleaned up the wiring harness on passenger side. And she starts and runs. Rear china wall was puking oil, so off it came and new gasket set ordered. Put it back together. No leaks, all is well.

The difference is very noticable. So much more acceleration. She does have a split second of lag on initial throttle but even so I've never seen that needle move so fast lol and cruising is really nice. Although I do need some lighter return springs.

Only two issues I'm still scratching my head over. One is the same issue as with the 2280 where it wants to idle high at 1k. Even with the curb idle screw completely backed off. Checked for vac leaks at all the normal places, blocked or capped all vac connections. Went around the intake and carb with a torch, no difference to rpm.

Other issue is that it is very ...rumbly at under 1k, as in it shakes the whole car substantially. Almost like a bad missfire or like you started up a 400hp monster in cold weather. Once it warms up it smooths right out.. albeit it at 1k rpm. This happens at stop signs and whatnot as well.

Timing is rock steady at 8BTDc
Vac at carb is 21 with no flutter
Vac at intake is 21 with flutter to 19 but I can get it to steady by adjusting the carb screws.

So the only things I can think of are that dampener HAS slipped this whole time, and I cannot get it timed properly because of that.

Or it's something in my distributor/wires.