My first post and it's a doozy

Gunnar Schroder

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Oh dear me what a lot of work done and still struggling to make it running as it should. I noted one thing that I want to comment.
I have this G22 1978 bought in 1991 and ran till 2000 when mothballed. Pulled out again in 2022. Mid 1990 I threw out the Spark Control Computer and replaced everything needed with the Electronic Ignition system as per attached photo. Threw out the Thermoquad carb that caused some idling problem (The importer could not get it run properly; I did!) and put a Edelbrock instead. Ran perfect all those years before stored.
Then when I started to renovate her in 2022 I bought some new items from Rockauto. You see them in the picture below: Ignition module to the left and the control module in the rear of the window washer tank. (Sorry I have forgotten the names but I am sure you understand) She ran as in those long gone days.
Then to the point:
A new coil and ballast resistor bought from Rockford as they advice to do so (cost was only coffe money). Replaced those items and started her up.
She started all right and warmed up most at idle for a while. Then: Shifting gear to drive she struggled and struggled and hardly ran at all. Just as this one. Hmmmmm what to do? A cup of coffe and a short rest. Then I checked it over again and the only thing that was different was the BALLAST RESISTOR. The original in the set had two point connection but the new one had four. Old one dusted off and replaced the new one. Hey! Presto! Back to normal and long gone days.
She now runs and idles perfect as she did and should do.
So: What about the Ballast Resistor??? According to Rockauto the new one should be compatible with the old one. NO!!!

Take care all of you and any of you have experience with AMSOS? I have filled in their formular and asked for prices etc for a few items several times but not heard anything. Perhaps they do not sell to non-USA members? I need the rear wheelarch list and they seem to have it.

All good wishes from Norway
Gunnar

Electronic ignition from Chrysler.jpg


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AMC Diplomat

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Oh dear me what a lot of work done and still struggling to make it running as it should. I noted one thing that I want to comment.
I have this G22 1978 bought in 1991 and ran till 2000 when mothballed. Pulled out again in 2022. Mid 1990 I threw out the Spark Control Computer and replaced everything needed with the Electronic Ignition system as per attached photo. Threw out the Thermoquad carb that caused some idling problem (The importer could not get it run properly; I did!) and put a Edelbrock instead. Ran perfect all those years before stored.
Then when I started to renovate her in 2022 I bought some new items from Rockauto. You see them in the picture below: Ignition module to the left and the control module in the rear of the window washer tank. (Sorry I have forgotten the names but I am sure you understand) She ran as in those long gone days.
Then to the point:
A new coil and ballast resistor bought from Rockford as they advice to do so (cost was only coffe money). Replaced those items and started her up.
She started all right and warmed up most at idle for a while. Then: Shifting gear to drive she struggled and struggled and hardly ran at all. Just as this one. Hmmmmm what to do? A cup of coffe and a short rest. Then I checked it over again and the only thing that was different was the BALLAST RESISTOR. The original in the set had two point connection but the new one had four. Old one dusted off and replaced the new one. Hey! Presto! Back to normal and long gone days.
She now runs and idles perfect as she did and should do.
So: What about the Ballast Resistor??? According to Rockauto the new one should be compatible with the old one. NO!!!

Take care all of you and any of you have experience with AMSOS? I have filled in their formular and asked for prices etc for a few items several times but not heard anything. Perhaps they do not sell to non-USA members? I need the rear wheelarch list and they seem to have it.

All good wishes from Norway
Gunnar

View attachment 55804

View attachment 55805
AMS Obsolete/AMS NOS is the kind of place that likes phone calls over emails.
 

Gunnar Schroder

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AMS Obsolete/AMS NOS is the kind of place that likes phone calls over emails.
I know but phoning from Norway and my language is not so good. I hope some of our members here had time to help me asking them for a quotation. I do not rely 100% on myself speaking and may mess things up. Thanks for informing me Sir
 

Mikes5thAve

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A single ballast resistor will work or they won't... when they don't work engine stops when you let go of the key after starting.

For AMS what were you buying?
 

Gunnar Schroder

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A single ballast resistor will work or they won't... when they don't work engine stops when you let go of the key after starting.

For AMS what were you buying?
I must check the restistor I bought as you gave me an idea. Perhaps I can use only two of the connections? I seem to recall (when looking underneath it that there were two paralell restistor wires? Thanks a million Mike.

A different kettle of fish now as the parts I have asked for are as follows:

4054457
The rear weatherstrip for my sunroof (still working!) The front one should be nice to have too so please check if you have any part number for that. I have not found it in the Spares manual I have.
4017808
I presume this is the rear wheel arch list I am missing for my G22 !978 Coupe Dodge Diplomat
4046915
I have only got hold of one new bumper guard and would like to have one more. My Dodge is a 1978 G22 Coupe that I bought way back in 1991. Restoring her at the moment.

All in all at the moment three Items: 4154457, 4017808, 404695


Payment prompt either Paypal or Mastercard all inclusive freight to Norway.

I kept a copy of what I filled in and the only one I am really in need of are the Rear Wheel Arch 4017808 as the one I still have was run over by me in our garage late 1990! One of the rear bumper guard may be resused as the chrome is very good but the inside! Rusted but cleaned up by me and stopped (I hope) with some paint sealant (or so they say).

Still good weather over here and Saturday is the Norwegian National Day.

Take care, safe driving and too many idiots on the road over here with E-cars.
Gunnar

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Mikes5thAve

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On the dual ballast one side should be around the proper resistance and the other side isn't. If you're using it in place of the single one.
 

5thtimesthecharm

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Took my carb off, blew out the idle passages and rod passages with carb clean and quick air blasts. Then adjusted the butterflies, looked like one of the primaries was a little off. That cleaned up the idle really nicely. No longer rumbles like crazy after adjusting the a/f screws.

Now timing. Just to be sure, I doubt and triple checked. My wires are set correctly, and TDC is where it should be.
But I noticed that at TDC my harmonic shows retarded 4° or maybe 5°.
Should it not be lined up with the zero at TDC? Or did some emissions motors come with that retard from the factory?
 
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