Superior Trans Parts TF-TC Kit

[BudW]

Honestly, I can’t see enough detail on your picture to see the details with the linkage design.

First of all, do you have the correct Chrysler adaptor for the carburetor on there?
If you are not using the correct adaptor, it will leave your throttle stud too close or too far away from center of butterfly’s, which will cause problems with kickdown and throttle travel.

You may have the correct adaptor on it – I just can’t tell by the picture. I do know the Chevy carb link hole will cause problems.

The upper kickdown arm appears to be for a 2 bbl, and not a 4 bbl. The 4 bbl one longer, sense the front butterfly is closer to front of engine.

If you have a bolt in the slot – that might work to make the arm longer – but the best fix is to get the correct arm/link.


Let me ask this.
What is the carbonator number do you have on engine now?
Did you use the Chrysler carb throttle adaptor?
Can you remove the air cleaner, then take a photo pointing straight down showing the linkage on carb to the upper bell crank, please?

Thank you,
BudW

 

[BudW]

I am still running the weak 7.25" which I am worried my 360 will now kill if I am not careful,

Aye – It might last one or two takeoffs, but very shortly after that (if not before), you are going to leave an oil slick and a string of broken pieces behind the car.

 

[Bruceynz]

Orange spring keeps it pulled forward all the time, nut in slot makes sure its push all the way back. But basically the slot length is halved now, full throttle all the way back, light throttle it is all the way forward.

 

[Bruceynz]

Hi Bud,

No I don't have the correct linkages, I just got all my bits and made it work, carb is a 600 holley and its got the chev setup, I took bits off the 2bbl carb to make it all hook up. Took for a drive today and trans not shifting right and hard to kick down. Will get that photo for you soon.

 

[Bruceynz]

Hi Bud,

Photo's of my linkages and my carb is a Holley 0-80457SA 600CFM 4bbl, what is the throttle adapter I need?

A quick eBay search turned this up

Holley 20-7 Throttle Lever Extension Kit Chrysler

 

[BudW]

and its got the chev setup,

That might be a good portion of it.
Getting the correct linkage is also a big part of it.

You might want to look into a Lokar (spelling?) kickdown cable set up. You are not exactly close to a "older car" parts store, down under.

I do not know why pretty much all aftermarket carburetors manufactures (not you) come standard with Cheby linkage. People trying to get the Cheby linkage to work just compounds the problem with both throttle cable hookup as well as kickdown hookup. The distance from “the hole” to centerline of butterfly (up/down), the angle of hole (how it is clock’ed), and the distance from hole - outwards (towards valve cover).

Another question is your carburetor a square bore or spread bore?

 

[BudW]

I should hit refresh, before hitting enter. Sigh.

Ok, at first glance it looks OK - but actually, it is a long way from where it should be.

Your current setup does look like it should if you had a 2 bbl. Even the throttle cable looks right (again if it was a 2 bbl), but - not quite.

The 2 bbl link and bracket (the part that bolts to intake) are both set more inward sense carburetor is thinner (side to side). The throttle cable on 4 bbl is slightly longer (not sure how much but I think ½ to 1 inch (a thumbs width)). The cable attachment is also about 1 inch more towards valve cover (a thumbs width), so if you look cable on as is, it will go outwards at an angle. Not a big deal but with the already shorter cable, it generally is too much for old cable to work correctly. Luckily new 4 bbl cables are available from aftermarket sources.

The correct top link (4 bbl) has the rearward bend downwards in rear then goes in the bellcrank from outwards in, not inwards out. If you were to turn that link upside down, it wouldn’t slide correctly against the throttle cable stud (not level).

When carburetor is at rest, the back edge of the kickdown slide (the part touching throttle cable stud, where your bolt currently is located at) should be touching the throttle cable stud.
Right now, as your setup currently sits, you will burn the transmission clutches up real quick and it will not ever shift correctly.
The good news is we will get that fixed before that happens.

These pictures are from ‘68ish 318/340's. The operation is what I want to show - but the exact detail of what you need (if not going cable) will be slightly different.

Pay no attention to the Green arrow. I swiped this picture (and next one) off of the internet. This should be how your linkage (roughly) looked before changing it over.
Notice the distance linkage/throttle cable is from valve cover, vs the next picture.

You can see the cable attachment is father out and link goes in a different direction.
You could bend your throttle cable attachment upwards like this, attach a metal piece and slide it outwards or just do some metal crafting.
You might even be able to make your own top link. I've know people to do it (but not me).
Note: the throttle cable is pretty much right above the valve cover rail and link is over the valve cover

 

[BudW]

You do have a square bore carburetor and yes, the link you provided is the part you do need.

 

[Bruceynz]

Hi Bud,

What about it I shift my bolt in the slot forward to it makes the leaver go backwards as soon as the throttle moves?

Thanks
Bruce

 

[Bruceynz]

Hmmm I think I see my error, if I move the bolt forward then the trans kick down linkage will be all the way back but we may only be at half throttle

But if I do that will it be ok to move the car around with the bolt moved up the slot but just won't get full throttle but will be better for the trans until I can get all the bits I need?

Thanks
Bruce

 

[Bruceynz]

Do I need to get rid of all that stuff and get one of these setups

CHRYSLER 904 STAINLESS BRAIDED KICK DOWN CABLE KICKDOWN DETENT TRANNY MOPAR

 

[BudW]

Do I need to get rid of all that stuff and get one of these setups
CHRYSLER 904 STAINLESS BRAIDED KICK DOWN CABLE KICKDOWN DETENT TRANNY MOPAR

It will cost a lot more than that to get (all of) the correct linkage - so yes, that maybe the best option for you, it will all be in one box and we know it will work.

You may need to do a bit of tweaking for the throttle cable, and its hookup.
If your car was originally a 2 bbl car, then your throttle cable might be a bit short.

 

[Bruceynz]

I have made up my own adapter to mount the throttle cable, so I can use the car can I move my bolt up the slot so as soon as the throttle is moved the kick down linkage moves as well, just means will not get full throttle

 

[BudW]

The correct adaptor (see earlier link) should fix the full throttle issue - but, I suspect, may require a longer cable.
Hopefully, I’m wrong.

 

[80mirada]

I was able to get the 2bbl cable to work with the correct throttle lever. The cable just needs to be adjusted for WOT. I have a diagram for modifying the 2bbl kickdown link to a 4bbl link. I may have posted it somewhere I will have to look

 

[Bruceynz]

ok thanks, I can't get the bits I need in nz so have to use ebay and wait a few weeks for it to arrive, so if you have a mod that would be good

 

[Bruceynz]

At idle

 

[Bruceynz]

Full throttle

 

[Bruceynz]

Looking down carb at full throttle

 

[Bruceynz]

Are well all good now? That kick down linkage all the way forward at idle, all the way back at full throttle? Are we all good?

Thanks
Bruce