Synthetic Oil in 1987 5th Ave with 37K original miles?

Jack Meoff

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Modern engines get synthetic.

But instead running synthetic in my 1979 /6 w 93,000 miles or any of my 77-89 318's, I'll go what the engine gurus tell me and use dinosaur.
NOT ONE of the gurus ever said synthetic, not a one.

I'm no expert by any means. But not one of the guys I know and trust ever said it was fine. They said "no....don't do it". I never asked for the technical explanation why....I just listened to what I figure was sounds advice from guys who have been wrenching these engines for decades.

All I know is I've never had a single issue running tried and true and see no reason to change what my engines run well on.
 

Dr Lebaron

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Master M

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Darth-Car:
Thanks for all of your info on oil. I had a very experienced Mopar engine builder tell me for a late 60's big block that Valvoline conventional oil was ok but to make sure to use Morey's oil stabilizer with it, or there could be accelerated cam wear. What is your thought ?
When the majority of our cars were designed to have relatively high amounts of phosphorus (in the form of ZDDP) in their oil. Not because I want them to, not because it is an opinion, but because ALL oils that were around when our cars were built (and when the engines were originally designed) had relatively high levels of ZDDP. It was a standard part of the additive package used in all motor oils of the day (conventional or synthetic, Penzoil, Mobile 1, Ansoil, Valvoline, ALL). What has happened is that the API, in response to the reported poisoning of catalytic converters has reduced the amount of ZDDP/phosphorus to the point where the amount of ZDDP/phosphorus is below the minimum amount that the majority of the engines in our cars (meaning all flat tappet engines, not the roller tappet engines) are designed to have in their oils. The key issue is not conventional vs. synthetic, it is whether or not the oil has the adequate level of ZDDP.

See this article from Wikipeida:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

From that article, in the Standards section, American Petroleum Institute (API) subsection:

All the current gasoline categories (including the obsolete SH), have placed limitations on the phosphorus content for certain SAE viscosity grades (the xW-20, xW-30) due to the chemical poisoning that phosphorus has on catalytic converters. Phosphorus is a key anti-wear component in motor oil and is usually found in motor oil in the form of zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP). Each new API category has placed successively lower phosphorus and zinc limits, and thus has created a controversial issue of obsolescent oils needed for older engines, especially engines with sliding (flat/cleave) tappets. API, and ILSAC, which represents most of the worlds major automobile/engine manufactures, states API SM/ILSAC GF-4 is fully backwards compatible, and it is noted that one of the engine tests required for API SM, the Sequence IVA, is a sliding tappet design to test specifically for cam wear protection. Not everyone is in agreement with backwards compatibility, and in addition, there are special situations, such as "performance" engines or fully race built engines, where the engine protection requirements are above and beyond API/ILSAC requirements. Because of this, there are specialty oils out in the market place with higher than API allowed phosphorus levels. Most engines built before 1985 have the flat/cleave bearing style systems of construction, which is sensitive to reducing zinc and phosphorus. Example; in API SG rated oils, this was at the 1200-1300 ppm level for zinc and phosphorus, where the current SM is under 600 ppm. This reduction in anti-wear chemicals in oil has caused premature failures of camshafts and other high pressure bearings in many older automobiles and has been blamed for pre-mature failure of the oil pump drive/cam position sensor gear that is meshed with camshaft gear in some modern engines.

There are three diesel engine service designations which are current: CJ-4, CI-4, and CH-4. Some manufacturers continue to use obsolete designations such as CC for small or stationary diesel engines. In addition, API created a separated CI-4 PLUS designation in conjunction with CJ-4 and CI-4 for oils that meet certain extra requirements, and this marking is located in the lower portion of the API Service Symbol "Donut"."

There are a lot of good oils out there, including Amsoil. The question is not the quality of the oil, but whether the oil that meets current API specifications also has adequate levels of ZDDP for our older cars. If an oil is made to meet the current API specification (SN), IT CANNOT HAVE ADEQUATE LEVELS OF ZDDP FOR FLAT LIFTER ENGINES. THe API SN specification DOES NOT ALLOW IT. This is why the need tor conventional oils, and specifically Lucas Oil's "HOT ROD OIL", or Rotella T conventional oil. If you can convince AMSOIL to create a synthetic oil with high levels of ZDDP (which by extension, means that it cannot be used for modern cars, due to its poisoning of the catalytic converters, and not meeting new car warranty requirements), then I would be willing to try it. However, until such time as this comes about, Rotella T conventional is it.

Also, before you come on here with a sales pitch, I suggest you read the HOT ROD article that I previously linked to.

And just for the record, I use AMSOIL in my daily driver (a 2006 Monte Carlo SS). I use WIX filters. I use the synthetic oil because that is what the owner's manual calls for. Guess what? The owner's manual for my 3 J Bodies calls for oil that meets SE/SF standards. Those standards had high levels of ZDDP. The current SN grade does not. I choose to think that in both cases, the engineers who designed those engines knew that they were talking about. I have full confidence in that.
 

Darth-Car

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For those concerned about their ZDDP, there's an Amsoil for that too. Read about it here:

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ZRTQT-EA

In the case of the Z Rod series oils, I would periodically run an oil analysis to check the quality of the oil to ensure it still has the adequate protection package in place for your engine.

No I can not say I know any big name engine guys, but I know a lot of guys smarter about building engines than I am, and some of them run these engines down drag strips at really fast speeds. They were the ones who drug me kicking, and screaming into the Amsoil camp years age, and I have not regretted the conversion.
 

Jack Meoff

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For those concerned about their ZDDP, there's an Amsoil for that too. Read about it here:

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ZRTQT-EA

In the case of the Z Rod series oils, I would periodically run an oil analysis to check the quality of the oil to ensure it still has the adequate protection package in place for your engine.

No I can not say I know any big name engine guys, but I know a lot of guys smarter about building engines than I am, and some of them run these engines down drag strips at really fast speeds. They were the ones who drug me kicking, and screaming into the Amsoil camp years age, and I have not regretted the conversion.

The info looks good.

This is a debate that could go on for eternity......
 

compubert

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That oil looks good, price not so much. I will have to continue blending my own cocktail... :)
 

Darth-Car

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Sorry, I forgot to answer the other important question that was asked, yes the standard Amsoil product has a 25,000 drain interval. I only run it for 20,000 miles, myself, but I change the filter once per year. I only use Wix filters, and their latest literature claims you can run their filter for 25,000 miles. I think 12, 000 miles is plenty with a carb'ed motor for a filter.

The entire concept of the Amsoil product when released in the 70's was that we were changing our oil way to often. This created waste, and service station profits. Amsoil pioneered the extended drain interval to save consumers money in the long run, while providing superior protection for their cars.

-- Now personally aside from having some fun with the Captain I am stepping out of this thread. If you have other questions about the Amsoil products I will be happy to chat with you through a PM.
 

Jack Meoff

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20,000?
12,000?
I change my oil roughly every 2500-3000 kms.
In my opinion a $20 oil change is good insurance.
 

kkritsilas

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"Flat out don't use synthetics...." But has anyone taken the time to explain why?

I use synthetics in everything. I think I've had my hands in more than a few engines, from daily drivers to flat out haul ass engines. VR1 in everything with a flat tappet cam, Mobil 1 in the Hyundai, and Max Life full synth in the F150.

I posted two articles, one from Hot Rod Magazine, one from Wikipedia. Did you not read any of it? It has to do with synthetics of today (and also true of conventional oils, by the way) not having sufficient amounts of ZDDP, and synthetics being so slippery that they will not rotate the flat tappet lifters to help distribute wear. You have a vast experience with engines. So does Hot Rod magazine, so do the above named Mopar engine experts, and to an even greater extent, the original designers of the engines, who designed the engines to use the oil (SE/SF) that was around when they designed the engines, NOT synthetics, nor low ZDDP conventional oils of today (Type SN).

In roller lifter engines, feel free to use whatever you want, whatever brand you want. In flat tappet lifter engines, be aware that they were designed the use higher ZDDP content oil, and expected that the oil would not be as slippery as today's synthetics.

You can use whatever you want, your car, your money. However, I must pose the following question: Is it possible that some of the older engines that are being rebuilt, are being rebuilt due to the use of modern synthetic oils when they should have been using high ZDDP (relative to todays SN grade oils) content oil? Could it have beem the use of low ZDDP oil/modern super slippery synthetic oli that created the need for a rebuild, rather than the "Its a 30 year old engine, things wear out, time for a rebuild" type of conclusion?

P.S. Mobile 1 is not always a synthetic. There are Mobile 1 oils that are 100% synthetic, there are Mobile 1 oils that are blends.
 

kkritsilas

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I change oil as per the Car Manufacturer's guidelines. I don't care if AMSOIL says the oil is good for a million miles, I don't care if WIX says their filters are good for a hundred years. Neither one of the them designed the engines, and neither of them will provide engine warranty coverage on new cars if you have an engine problem and warranty work is required.

Allow me to further play devil's advocate: Is it possible that a Model T Ford's 4 cylinder would need a different oil change interval than a 426 Hemi? That a Chevy 350 would need a different oil change interval than a Ford Coyote V8 (the 5.0L in the current Mustang) or a Gen III Hemi? Would a car driven in temps of -25C (as in most of Canada and the northern US states) need a a different oil change interval than something driven in San Francisco? The answer to all of that is YES. So those 25,000 mile intervals quoted by Amsoil and/or WIX are marketing hype. I know that they are talking about average 20C/68F temperatures with normal driving (BTW what is normal), but they don't give any guidelines as in "if being driven in temperatures below 0F, shorten the interval by 50% (or whatever pecentage))". The owner's manuals in cars DO. So those extended intervals are just marketing. You can choose to change oil once every 20 years, you can choose to not change the oil at all, or you can choose to change the oil every week (some cabs do that). That is all up to you. I choose to follow the car manufacturer's recommendations, and actually change the oil somewhat more often than that. In my J's at least once a year with Rotella T conventional, in my daily driver, twice a year with synthetic. Filter is changed when I change the oil.
 

Jack Meoff

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I get a raised eyebrow when I tell people how often I change my oil but I don't really care. I do mine about every 2000-3000 kilometres....not miles. Usually closer to 2000. To me it's just cheap protection. When I see what comes out.....no it's not black. But for $20??? Why wouldn't I?....and yes they get a fresh filter everytime.
 

Dr Lebaron

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Way off topic talking oil of 100 yrs of engine history.
Didn't get a oil filter until 1923 and even good oil was sludge back then.
That's why you had visible pumps, because even the gas was so horrible.

Oil for a 1987 stock F/A?
I'm only going with a small period here, 1977-1989 carbed Chrysler and my dinosaur feelings and advice is noted above.

Now ask about another motor and there will be another answer about oil.
 

Dr Lebaron

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FWIW, I used Fram, then Mopar for yrs and I didn't have a tragedy.
But when I saw the Baldwin v/s the rest data, I went Baldwin.

If you met John Force [have] and he told you how great Fram is, you know it's a shill job.
The pro Baldwin guys I met use them on their cars and have no stake in the company.
 

80mirada

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I lost a Chrysler 3.5 to a bad Fram. I knew probably a dozen people who had engine failures that were Frams failing and spreading pieces through the engine. Everyone of them were well maintained cars.
 

Jack Meoff

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I lost a Chrysler 3.5 to a bad Fram. I knew probably a dozen people who had engine failures that were Frams failing and spreading pieces through the engine. Everyone of them were well maintained cars.

I've read stories of chinese made Wix doing the same thing.
 

compubert

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have seen expose where they cut them all open and baldwin looks better than most.. fram looks like drunken kids put them together on friday at 4:30...
 
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