The BIG 360 rethink

BudW

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My thoughts.
2.02” minus 1.88” equals 0.140” smaller (roughly 7%).
If it needs valves, I would get the larger ones.
If existing valves are OK, I might keep the existing ones – unless some porting is done and throat is opened up, I’m not sure the larger valve will accomplish much.
If some porting is done and throat is opened up, then yes, the benefit of the larger valve can be realized.

I hadn’t done one in quite a while – but I have done a bunch of valve jobs as well as a few competition valve jobs (which smooths the air flow around the valve head and throat area, more) in my lifetime.
On a stock 340 or 360 cylinder head – I don’t think which valve you use (2.02” or 1.88”) will make a hill of beans difference – until you fix the throat (the bigger restriction) first.
BudW
 

Bruceynz

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AJ/Forms - Pick me a cam me please, as I can't choose one, I have told you everything I am going to do with my engine, you know a lot more about them than me!

COMP Cams: Xtreme Energy™

I am leaning towards the XE262H soon as you pick one I will buy it and have it shipped over, the cam will end up costing me in excess of $300 but if this is the only way to fix my running gear and make the car go good its a small price to pay!

I am not being smart or anything, I honestly don't know what to do!

Thanks
Bruce
 

jasperjacko

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My combo is basic, and would probably meet your goals. Stock, unported, and no gasket matching, stock valve j heads. Permormer intake. 284 484 cam. 9-9.5 comp. Thermoquad 1.5 primaries, Dougs 1 5/8 headers into 3" single exhaust (borla muffler), 2500 stall converter, Runs 13.7s all day with a best of 13.65, And enough torque to fry the tires with no brake torquing required. My intake and cam aren't really matched, and I may install a torker ll which I have, that should move the torque and hp curve a little higher. As it is I have too much torque for the 255/60/15 tires to put down.
 

AJ/FormS

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Ok now yer talking!
Hang tuff, while we go thru this.
But I know you probably paid a lotta money to get that cam into your possession. Do yo wanna go down this new road?
>>I can tell you for sure that the 223@050 cam I had was dynomite, as to torque from idle to just about what that dyno curve looks like.
Notice the peak is about 415ftlbs@ 3700, but from 2500 to 5000 it is hovering right around over 90% of that.
Then,notice,as you can see the power is nothing to brag about at 350. But,check out how very wide the top of that curve is. From 4000 to over 6000,it is making over 90% of that 350hp.
1) POWERBAND;
That is exactly what the A998 torqueflite needs, as the splits are 56% and 65%.Meaning, that engine will want to wind out to around 6600, to drop in at 3710(56% of 6600). Notice on the graph, that you will have to extrapolate the hp-line out to 6600. There it might be making 300HP and that is what it drops into at 3710.So you can see why I questioned the 268* cam,right?;you woulda had to rev it to at least 300rpm more to achieve I nice transition, with maximum average hp for that gear.That would then be over 6800rpm.
2) STALL;
Now, pay attention to the torque line below 3000rpm.Notice how it falls 25 ftlbs from 3000 to 2500. That is not bad. But look what happens below 2500, it drops another 25ftlbs by 2250; just half as many revs. Now think about the stock TC which might have been rated as high as 2250 with the 2bbl, hi-torque cam.Suppose that very same TC only stalled at 2000 with your previous doughy-combo. Notice the torque would have fallen perhaps under 300 ft lbs. This is another 50 ft lbs! Now are you seeing why the previous combo was doughy?
Lets put it into numbers; previous torque at 2000stall about 300.New torque with 2500TC about 375! whooee! That maths out to an increase of 25%. Now a 3000TC would peg the torque at 400, which is a 33% increase over the previous sucked out combo! So by now you can see how this stuff works. So;you already own the 2500, and that will be good, cuz it works pretty good to have the stall lower than the cruise rpm, which for you will be around 2473@ 62 with 27s. Perfect!
Ok, so we know the combo can hit at least two bases, namely;off-the-line tire fryer, and comfortable cruising at under 2500.
3) JUMP;
Lets talk about hammer down at 32 mph. This will be about 3330 rpm. Check out the dyno curve at 3330;What do we see, but over 400 ftlbs! And climbing! This means,Properly tuned,your A-body will be as mean as can be! Whooee, we just hit another target!
4) FUEL ECONOMY;
Power extraction is 360+(270/2-114), less 270, =121*
That is a whole bunch, and means the engine has the potential to get great fuel economy. We just need to put the squeeze on, during the compression cycle, to maximize the pressure during the exhaust cycle.Then we can apply that maximized pressure to the crank, and out the back door. A fourth base and now a home run!
5) What's next?Ok we saw that the engine needs to rev to maybe as high as 6600 for a run to the traps. Of course you don't have to rev it that high; that's just what the tranny wants. So, 6600 will be about 57.5 mph.Close enough? 28s will get you 2 more mph.
6) The overlap on this cam is (262+270)/2- (2x110)=46* That tells us that headers are now an option, as opposed to mandatory.

>>So to recap your combo; We have seen the potentials for it to be a tire-fryer, great at hammer-down at 32 mph, great fuel mileage, that the powerband will work with the 2.74 low gear, that the 2500TC will be good and that headers are optional.

So that brings us back to the engine.
....The IVC is 360+(262/2 -106)-262,-180,signchange =57* Wow! we can work with that.
We have seen that the engine will want to hit 6600.That it needs a very wide powerband to use that 2.74 low tranny; from 3700 to 6600. These two combine to tell us that the heads are gonna have to be the powerhouses, cuz the cam is duration limited.So yes, the big valves are a good idea, and so is a high lift, and so is proper porting for midrange, NOT just max rpm. And that just put the headers back on the table.
Now here is the saving grace. remember that 57* ICA? Well that little tiny number tells us another target. If we target 87 gas,and we can, cuz we are making plenty enough torque, we can reduce our Scr to save some machining costs.With the right pistons (KB 190/191), we can achieve some pretty amazing things. We can reshape the combustion chambers in those LA heads, to achieve a tight squish. And we can adjust the compression ratio to just about any decent number we want.
Remember how eager you were to machine the heads down. Well that would have required a matching cut to adjust the intake drop in.And a new set of pushrods, and possibly the installation of adjustable rocker gear, right?That's adding up to a lot of money.
Now 6600rpm requires some oiling mods to live there. That means the engine has to come apart, completely. So knowing that, you might as well, freshen the block, and put the proper pistons in there.Sure more money right? That AJ, he's always spending other peoples money!. Well these costs are off set by the previous savings in multiple machinings, AND the use of 87 gas! What, how does that work?
Well with the KB 190/191s you get to build in tight-squish, which will allow you to run more cylinder pressure without detonating. Your current pistons are so far down that the chamber is huge. And there is no squish in it. That leads to problems with 87 and high cylinder pressures. So, by installing the right pistons and tightening up the squish, you can run that skunk-pee and add about a half a point of compression, which will maintain the power at a slightly higher level with that tiny 262 cam, But build more torque everywhere, and save you thousands of dollars at the pump, year after year, over the life of the engine.
So Having decided on a 262* cam, And knowing that 87 will support a Dcr of about 8.2 with iron heads, It's just a matter of punching the numbers into the Wallace calculator and it spits out a Compression ratio to target. And I get 9.75 For 165psi. Now that gives us a bit of wiggle room, if your particular combo requires a bit more octane.
Next what do we need to do to achieve that 9.75? OK, assuming a bore of 4.02 and a stroke of 3.58, that makes a swept volume of 45.44 cubic inches or 744.6 cc . And to make 9.75 with that requires a total chamber volume of 85.1cc
Now we're getting somewhere! Assuming a stock LA head of about 72 cc and an .039 FellPro at 8.9cc,that means we need to adjust the KBs to hit 85.1less (72+8.9)=4.2cc badaboom!This is very doable.
Since LA heads are open chambered, you will need to fit the KBs into them to achieve the 4.2cc, and to simultaneously hit .045 to .035 quench clearance. This will take some math on the part of your machinist. Some guys on here are very concerned about the clearance volume around the top of the piston just before the upper ring, and rightly so. But in the case of open chamber heads, not much can be done about it,and I have no experience messing with it. But the point I am trying to make is that this is totally doable. And at a reasonable cost. And the pay-back is more everything; more compression, more torque, more power, cleaner running, and more mpgs; leaving, in the long-run, more money in your pocket. And when you hear it bark to life, it will be more smiles for you, more rubber on the road, and more happy motoring for you.
Almost finally, is the heads; I'm no head guy, so this is where I have to trust somebody who is. I believe the 2.02s will be a nice improvement. And once the numbers are in, THAT IS THE TIME to select a lift number for the cam, and not before! The cam lift is the final piece of the puzzle. So there is no point in porting the heads for .550 lift cuz you probably can't grind a lobe onto a 262 cam to satisfy that. So your porter will need to know what's going on.It might also be a good thing to think about a mechanical cam. It is easily possible to get a flat-tappet solid lifter design to run like it was one size bigger than a hydraulic flat tappet. So now you sacrifice nothing on the bottom, but by opening and closing the valves faster, the dwell time at wide open is increased, and those long-tube headers can start to do their job.And maybe you can tighten up the LSA, a bit more, to increase that 350hp number, without the torque penalty at 2500stall.
So if you understand my mumbo-jumbo, Your combo's effectiveness will hinge on the effectiveness of the head flow, and the cam spec. These are in symbiotic relationship. There is no point in porting much above the cam, and there is no point in selecting more cam than the head can support. So until the heads come back from the porter, you can't select a cam, and until the cam is written in stone, it would be difficult to set the compression ratio. If the headporter knows his stuff, he might be able to work his magic to suit your cam and compression ratio.
At this level of performance, I would be hunting for the fastest lobes that somebody is willing to grind for you, and I would be running 1.6 arms to make it easier on the grinder, and easier on the lobes, cuz 6600 is getting up there, and will require some pretty good springs.
So now, I have spent a lot of your money, and you are probably near tears. What you thought would have a simple solution,according to AJ, doesn't.
Well I'm not gonna tell you what to do; you have everything right here in this one monster post, to make your own mind up. You can slam a lessor engine together, and get to a pretty sweet spot. But you won't cover all the bases, hit all the targets, have the most fun, pass the most gas stations,etc, until the engine is optimized, as above.
Parting shots;
My pet peeve is those factory chambers. They are not exactly a problem for dragracers. Nor for Joe average's DD. But for us streeters they cost a lot of money to work around. What with specialty pistons, specialized machining, careful parts selection,etc; it all adds up.
By far the best is a closed chamber with a zero deck piston. This minimizes the chamber surface area, minimizes the clearance volume, sets up the tight squish,and is adjustable to a degree as to compression ratios; so if properly set-up,you can go up or down one camsize and not get into detonation issues.

I'll tell you a secret, don't tell,ok? The factory teener cam is 240/248/112IIRC. It sets the ICA to 50* (compared to your 57*) and at 8.2Scr, the Dcr comes in at 7.2/140psi. It wouldn't take much stall to make that a TireFryer, say a 2500? There would be Zero machining required, Zero pistons,zero valve gear, and zero porting. Just slide it in and go melt tires. Since it is about 3 sizes smaller than the 262, I'm guessing it would torque peak right around the stall speed of 2500,and it would be done very early.But of course the torque at 2500 would be huge.Well not huge exactly but very near to what we saw in that earlier dyno graph, say 375 ftlbs.The power peak would probably move down 600 to 800 rpm, so say 5000,and the outshift would be about 6000 for that A998. The torque would be down and so then would follow the power, and since the outshift is early, you can skip the oiling mods and the deep pan. And of course you can leave the headers on the shelf. So for a guy who just wanted a tire-fryer, reasonable fuel mileage, and a cheap engine, this would be hard to beat, lol.
>If he didn't mind 4.10s, he could be right back in the game. 62mph would be 5100ish,in second,3160 in Drive. Torque multiplication with 4.10s would be 28% more than the 3.21s. Which would be more than worth the 3 cam-size deficit, or at least close to it. The 32 mph stomp gets you 4000rpm in first, and because you are running 4.10s this will blast to redline (about 42 mph) in a heartbeat. Now the headers are back on the table!
>>So the buy-in here is a teener cam and 4.10s,Badaboom.And no more hiway motoring. That's about $700 Canadian. You get the tire-fryer, the 32 mph stomp, a two gear charge to 62 mph that can continue to 75 mph, and an incredible flat powerband,That's hard to beat.
I bet you're thinking that you could stuff that 268* back in there, with its 60* ICA. I don't think so Bruce. Now you are moving the power peak up to the top again; don't even think about it!
>>And the punchline is? I ran a stock teener with TTIs . a TQ, 4.30s,a 2800TC, and enough spring to hit 6000 no problems. That was DYNOMITE!..... T-N-T. So Ima thinking a 360 would be dynomite times..... 360/318=times 1.132plus the big-port heads,lol
Wait, I think I already preached this in a previous post; :)


I think done,lol
 
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Bruceynz

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Hi, but from what AJ/FormS says that really is not a good combo, go back and have we look when he talks about 280 cams and having to go down a couple cams to make it all work nice.

My combo is basic, and would probably meet your goals. Stock, unported, and no gasket matching, stock valve j heads. Permormer intake. 284 484 cam. 9-9.5 comp. Thermoquad 1.5 primaries, Dougs 1 5/8 headers into 3" single exhaust (borla muffler), 2500 stall converter, Runs 13.7s all day with a best of 13.65, And enough torque to fry the tires with no brake torquing required. My intake and cam aren't really matched, and I may install a torker ll which I have, that should move the torque and hp curve a little higher. As it is I have too much torque for the 255/60/15 tires to put down.
 

Bruceynz

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so what cam is the best one for my set up?


Ok now yer talking!
Hang tuff, while we go thru this.
But I know you probably paid a lotta money to get that cam into your possession. Do yo wanna go down this new road?
>>I can tell you for sure that the 223@050 cam I had was dynomite, as to torque from idle to just about what that dyno curve looks like.
Notice the peak is about 415ftlbs@ 3700, but from 2500 to 5000 it is hovering right around over 90% of that.
Then,notice,as you can see the power is nothing to brag about at 350. But,check out how very wide the top of that curve is. From 4000 to over 6000,it is making over 90% of that 350hp.
1) POWERBAND;
That is exactly what the A998 torqueflite needs, as the splits are 56% and 65%.Meaning, that engine will want to wind out to around 6600, to drop in at 3710(56% of 6600). Notice on the graph, that you will have to extrapolate the hp-line out to 6600. There it might be making 300HP and that is what it drops into at 3710.So you can see why I questioned the 268* cam,right?;you woulda had to rev it to at least 300rpm more to achieve I nice transition, with maximum average hp for that gear.That would then be over 6800rpm.
2) STALL;
Now, pay attention to the torque line below 3000rpm.Notice how it falls 25 ftlbs from 3000 to 2500. That is not bad. But look what happens below 2500, it drops another 25ftlbs by 2250; just half as many revs. Now think about the stock TC which might have been rated as high as 2250 with the 2bbl, hi-torque cam.Suppose that very same TC only stalled at 2000 with your previous doughy-combo. Notice the torque would have fallen perhaps under 300 ft lbs. This is another 50 ft lbs! Now are you seeing why the previous combo was doughy?
Lets put it into numbers; previous torque at 2000stall about 300.New torque with 2500TC about 375! whooee! That maths out to an increase of 25%. Now a 3000TC would peg the torque at 400, which is a 33% increase over the previous sucked out combo! So by now you can see how this stuff works. So;you already own the 2500, and that will be good, cuz it works pretty good to have the stall lower than the cruise rpm, which for you will be around 2473@ 62 with 27s. Perfect!
Ok, so we know the combo can hit at least two bases, namely;off-the-line tire fryer, and comfortable cruising at under 2500.
3) JUMP;
Lets talk about hammer down at 32 mph. This will be about 3330 rpm. Check out the dyno curve at 3330;What do we see, but over 400 ftlbs! And climbing! This means,Properly tuned,your A-body will be as mean as can be! Whooee, we just hit another target!
4) FUEL ECONOMY;
Power extraction is 360+(270/2-114), less 270, =121*
That is a whole bunch, and means the engine has the potential to get great fuel economy. We just need to put the squeeze on, during the compression cycle, to maximize the pressure during the exhaust cycle.Then we can apply that maximized pressure to the crank, and out the back door. A fourth base and now a home run!
5) What's next?Ok we saw that the engine needs to rev to maybe as high as 6600 for a run to the traps. Of course you don't have to rev it that high; that's just what the tranny wants. So, 6600 will be about 57.5 mph.Close enough? 28s will get you 2 more mph.
6) The overlap on this cam is (262+270)/2- (2x110)=46* That tells us that headers are now an option, as opposed to mandatory.

>>So to recap your combo; We have seen the potentials for it to be a tire-fryer, great at hammer-down at 32 mph, great fuel mileage, that the powerband will work with the 2.74 low gear, that the 2500TC will be good and that headers are optional.

So that brings us back to the engine.
....The IVC is 360+(262/2 -106)-262,-180,signchange =57* Wow! we can work with that.
We have seen that the engine will want to hit 6600.That it needs a very wide powerband to use that 2.74 low tranny; from 3700 to 6600. These two combine to tell us that the heads are gonna have to be the powerhouses, cuz the cam is duration limited.So yes, the big valves are a good idea, and so is a high lift, and so is proper porting for midrange, NOT just max rpm. And that just put the headers back on the table.
Now here is the saving grace. remember that 57* ICA? Well that little tiny number tells us another target. If we target 87 gas,and we can, cuz we are making plenty enough torque, we can reduce our Scr to save some machining costs.With the right pistons (KB 190/191), we can achieve some pretty amazing things. We can reshape the combustion chambers in those LA heads, to achieve a tight squish. And we can adjust the compression ratio to just about any decent number we want.
Remember how eager you were to machine the heads down. Well that would have required a matching cut to adjust the intake drop in.And a new set of pushrods, and possibly the installation of adjustable rocker gear, right?That's adding up to a lot of money.
Now 6600rpm requires some oiling mods to live there. That means the engine has to come apart, completely. So knowing that, you might as well, freshen the block, and put the proper pistons in there.Sure more money right? That AJ, he's always spending other peoples money!. Well these costs are off set by the previous savings in multiple machinings, AND the use of 87 gas! What, how does that work?
Well with the KB 190/191s you get to build in tight-squish, which will allow you to run more cylinder pressure without detonating. Your current pistons are so far down that the chamber is huge. And there is no squish in it. That leads to problems with 87 and high cylinder pressures. So, by installing the right pistons and tightening up the squish, you can run that skunk-pee and add about a half a point of compression, which will maintain the power at a slightly higher level with that tiny 262 cam, But build more torque everywhere, and save you thousands of dollars at the pump, year after year, over the life of the engine.


to be continued
 

jasperjacko

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Hi, but from what AJ/FormS says that really is not a good combo, go back and have we look when he talks about 280 cams and having to go down a couple cams to make it all work nice.
Well, My combo works pretty good, is it perfect? No. Anyone telling you they got 32mpg from a hot carbed 360 must have hit the wrong buttons on the calculator. That's efi Honda civic mpgs. Not gonna happen.
 

jasperjacko

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i'm not telling you what to do, I'm just sharing what I did, and how it performs.
 

Bruceynz

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Hi,

Great thanks for the info! Much appreciated, AJ/Forms said he had and OD that bought the ratio down to get the 32mpg point to point.

Thanks
Bruce

Well, My combo works pretty good, is it perfect? No. Anyone telling you they got 32mpg from a hot carbed 360 must have hit the wrong buttons on the calculator. That's efi Honda civic mpgs. Not gonna happen.
 

jasperjacko

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Good luck, we look forward to hearing your future progress.
 

Bruceynz

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To be honest I am more confused than ever! Dunno where to go with it, getting dishearten with the thing and want to just give up! The stall on the converter is wrong, the cam is wrong, the rear end is wrong, the trans I want to use is wrong. My car seems to be all wrong, the only way to fix it is chuck out my stall converter and get a lock up stall converter so I can use the low first gear in the lock up trans, put a cam in it a bit better than stock, pull the engine out and rebuild it with flat top pistons. AJ/Forms has been through all the math to show where it needs to be at the only way I have been going is backwards.
 
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jasperjacko

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I think you may be over thinking the whole thing. Unless you have mountains of money, and can build a small displacement, turbo, efi, with overdrive transmission, EVERYTHING else will be a compromise.
 

80mirada

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You're over thinking this. You don't need the lockup, it does gain mileage, but we are talking small amount. The 2500 stall is a good street choice for a 360. IF you original transmission has a 2.74 low gear it can be swapped into the other trans. Your biggest problem is too big of a cam, something like a Comp 262-268 cam would help pull some vacuum and build some cylinder pressure.
 

AJ/FormS

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Bruce
If your 2500TC is for a 904, just use the 904. If you do go the 262* route, It will actually be a little better, Cuz it will let you hit 6300ish at 62 mph with those 3.21s. The splits are a little better in the A904, and you won't have to zing it up as far before the shift.
So now, the TC is right, the tranny is right and the gears are right; right for a 262 cam.
Yes you will lose the 11.8% low gear torque, But if you put the compression up where it needs to be, then you will hardly notice it; especially if you never had it to start with.I like to use this analogy; If you need to get rid of a pesky critter, you can use a 22, or you can use a 303, or a shotgun, either way dead is dead. Same with spinning tires; you can spin them at 2500 or 3500 or 4500, either way they are spinning.

As to fuel mileage, there's no magic in getting great numbers.
All you need is light weight,a low rolling resistance, a great C/D,low rpm, Hi compression,and a lean AFR. Isn't that what manufacturers are striving for today?
My combo was 3467 pounds, a M/T, 1588 rpm@65mph, The Barracuda is no brick,either.And the engine was set up specifically for the two day cruise.
 
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4speedjim

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Aj/froms makes good sense, his math is dead on right. It is a lot of information, a little confusing and spendy by the blissful quench of the KBs at the end.
Bruce, Couldn't you get a used Magnum out of a wreckers down there? Superior heads, 9.5 comp, Far superior heads, block and machining to start with. Significantly better roller cam, lifters and rockers. The heads will be cracked, I'm 100% certain of that. Because of that, and you don't need to ship and import it. It should be cheap to buy. What can an engine with cracked heads be worth to a wrecker? Its a better anchor for resale value. Take the heads to a good shop and have them repaired and La manifold bolt holes drilled. You can use a .029 head gasket on Magnums. If it was well maintained, you can drop it straight in. They simply don't wear if the oil was changed. Good iron and precision machined, it wont need bored and new pistons & rings. You might want to step up the cam a size, maybe 2 and get valve springs if the timing chain is stretched out. There 245Hp 330Tq from the factory. Your headers, duals, and cold air puts you near 300 stock Hp and strong 350+Tq from idle - 6000 rpm with stock valve springs. Its plenty to burn up my posi 10.5" wide radials and I can let the wife drive it. I think spinning a street motor over 6000 is expensive. You can make all the power you want under 6000rpm and never brake anything. A Magnums just a better, more efficient foundation than the La. And the stock Magnum almost exactly what you asked for performance wise. With a cam alone you can make 325-350Hp & 380+Tq, maybe more if your willing to move the torque curve from just off idle where you'll be 95% of the time. You have to double the power of a stock 360 La just to get to 300, and naturally its spendy. You only need a little 50Hp bump in cam on a Magnum. Id only change the cam if the chain needed replaced. It will run great on 87 octane. Forever. Do the Magnum and use all the $$ you saved to add an OD or that double OD! That would be cool. You'd have plenty of torque to push you. And you'll still have the La to tinker with, rob parts off, or sell it to defray the used Magnum buy. It just seems like a cheap, reliable, no regret solution. It takes all the fun out of bench racing parts like with the La, because its already built for you. But it takes all the guesswork money and trial and error out of the equation. Better heads, roller valvetrain, 9.5 comp, and everything you own can be used on the Magnum.
Hughescams.com is a Mopar only head and engine shop. They write lots of good articles on Mopars and engines in general. I like reading their stuff. Them and Grumpy Jenkins. They will tell ya every aspect of every degree of rotation in a motor. I know you didn't need more to think about and get confused over. But nobody mentioned a used motor and repairing the Magnum heads. What can a used 5.9 with cracked heads be worth to a wrecker? Its an anchor.
They're a better sealed, won't leak oil like an La, makes the minimum power required stock, uses everything you already have. And has got to be much cheaper than building the La to the same power level, whatever that ultimately is. Try one stock, with your TC intake distributor and carb. Then decide where to put the money. It will be a lot less than putting it on the La & importing all them new parts. And you have a much better foundation to build off on.
 

Bruceynz

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Hi,

I would love a 360 magnum but they were never sold here, in 10 years I have seen 1 360 magnum for sale for $2500 and conditions was unknown.

So just have to stick with the LA for now.

So if I buy that comp cams xe262h cam, continue with the porting of the LA heads, take 40-45thou off heads, fit the 2.02" intakes, the air gap, 770 street avenger, go with the non lock up trans and the non lock up 2200 - 2500 stall converter with the 3.21:1 rear end and that should see me get ok acceleration and pull quite strong up to 5000rpm?

Thanks
Bruce
 
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AJ/FormS

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Hi,

I would love a 360 magnum but they were never sold here, in 10 years I have seen 1 360 magnum for sale for $2500 and conditions was unknown.
So just have to stick with the LA for now.
So if I buy that comp cams xe262h cam, continue with the porting of the LA heads, take 40tho off heads, fit the 2.02" intakes, the air gap, 770 street avenger, go with the non lock up trans and the non lock up 2200 - 2500 (see below) stall converter with the 3.21:1 rear end and that should see me get ok acceleration and pull quite strong up to 5000rpm?IMO, yes.
I was under the impression that the TC was 2500 for sure. That 2500 is at the low limit of acceptable. That is to say 2800 is better. But 2200 is stock, and it just won't cut it.
>If the pistons are flat-tops down at .057, that maths out to 11.7 cc, but if the are dished, that could add another 6 or more cc. Cutting the heads .040 will get you about 9cc, and LAs often come in at 72cc,I have been told.For headgaskets .028s are about 6.6cc, .039s are about 8.9cc.I would use the .039 gasket with the flat-tops, and the .028 with the dished pistons.Doing the math now, the total chamber volume could be between 81.3 and 83.6cc
> with the 262 in at 106, and the ICA at 57*: the Scr could therefore be (stock bore and stroke) between 9.8 and 9.4
the Dcr would follow at 8.25@166psi, to 7.92@158psi.
Because you have no squish with this combo, the 8.25Dcr engine might require 89 or even 91gas@WOT ..The 7.9 should be fine with pump-gas.The 770 carb is overkill for this application, and so is the Airgap. Tip-in and Slowspeed response under 1500 might be a little tardy, but by the 2500stall speed things may be waking up.Headers will help speed things up.You will need to be patient with the secondary-timing. I think either engine will suffer that top-end ok.
>The 2.02s are probably overkill, but if your porter thinks he can pull some very good low-lift air with them, they will certainly help to extend the operating range at the top,
>So don't forget the intake is not gonna fit properly, unless you cut it or the mating surface on the heads.And also, you need to do things in the proper order. That means don't spend anything until the heads come back. You need to CC everything to see where it will all end up.
 
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AJ/FormS

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That's a bit of a problem Bruce
But only because you wanted a tire-fryer.
With a starter gear of 3.21 x 2.45(A904)=7.86 x 1.1say, in the TC=8.65, that's a problem. Keep in ind that the TC boost only lasts for the initial hit, and then it settles back down as the car accelerates.
If it stalls at 2250 and the engine makes 350pdft,(per the Chebby graph), then you have simplistically, 350 x 8.65=3027 ftlbs in the rear axles. That is not enough to fry anything but skinnytires. OR maybe one 245-14,lol.
But at 2500 rpm that new 360 might make 375. Now 375 x8.65=3244ftlbs. that is 20% more and getting closer to spinning a pair of 245s,but you better wind her up a bit cuz as soon as they get some heat into them they will drag the Rs down, and that is just plain embarrassing.And you will want a line-loc.
At 3000rpm that Chebby is making 400#. Now 400 x 8.65=3460ftlbs into the rear axle, that's getting somewhere.That will fry 245s with a stomp. And 255s,too. And probably 275s as well.
The target I look for with a pair of 275s is around 3500# which will smokem even without a line-lock. Just nail the DP carb and hang-on. For you, that is a 3000TC. At 32mph your engine will be at 3126 in first/1850 in second/1276 in Drive; with thatA904. In first gear,that 262 will be very close to making peak torque. And the number is generous at 415. So, I see a 3000TC stomped down from Drive into First, hitting 3300with slip, as lighting up 275s no problem, and spinning them all the way up to shift-rpm, or about 50plus mph! That's a tire fryer.
>But, Bruce, you're still peg-legging it. So, even if that TC only manages 2250, It's still gonna spin the one. And as soon as it does, just wind the tack up to 3000 and it will burn it to smithereens!
>If the TC is stuck at 2250, save up some cash for an LSD, a 3000TC and 275s.This is the pay/play as you go plan. These three should now be considered as a set; If you buy the tires first,She may not turn the one anymore. If you install the LSD, she may not turn the both tires. If you upgrade the TC first, you will have a lotta fun melting that one tire back there, and there is a good chance you will destroy the spiders and crosspin,in the differential case...... That is why I suggest doing all three at the same time, and also why I say If it spins just one,hurry up an get the LSD.

below is the compcams dyno sheet on their mule.

xe262-jpg.jpg
to be continued
 
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