Dodge Aspen restoration project for my exam in one topic.

Kaitsu

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I got the wiring harness thingy going on, that was a heck of a job finding them but still, less work than try to do it myself. I started to look for the 3- spoke steering wheel, the one with horn buttons on the spokes. I have a tilting steering column so I was wondering if the wheel can be installed into my column since I cannot find info about it on the shop manuals or the parts catalogue. I found some photos but all that had tilt column had the same wheel which is the one I have right now (one wide spoke with a large horn button).

Other topic is about the lighting on the trunk and under hood: can anyone post me a pic on what does the light lenses look like and where do they attach onto?
 

Kaitsu

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I got the precise price catalogue from the shop who restores old harnesses today. Everything else was just fine by the price but I wonder why is an NOS negative battery cable worth 120$?
 

greymouser7

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Hey, I don't know how good the 727 is that I have- there is a nationally renown transmission shop down the road in Jacksonville, Florida that could rebuild it professionally with warranty.

I would hate to ship a POS (bad) transmission across the ocean to you without someone going thru it. I can take the trans to them and ask how much they want to rebuild it for you

they are going to want to know what motor, cam, vehicle, weight, rear gears, purpose that you are going to use...

Turbo Action

www.turboaction.com/frame.html


"Transmissions





Turbo Action transmissions are custom built with the greatest of care in mind for you the customer. Turbo Action has the performance and reliability record of over thirty-eight years for custom building automatic transmissions. Our custom building means quality, durability and performance. Turbo Action's automatics are specially built with many innovative engineering designs. For example, the CHEETAH Valve Body, created back in the mid 70's, our "positive high gear control" and the making of reduced drag components.

Street & Pro Street Transmissions

Created to produce quick, responsive shifts when shifted manually. Maintains automatic features. Passing gear linkage hook-up required on Torqueflite/ TorqueCommand Turbo Hydro 200 transmissions. Requires vacuum modulator hook-ups if transmission equipped originally with modulator. Maintains stock shift pattern.





Competition Transmissions
Engineered, designed and built for the ultimate in performance, dependability and durability. Extensive modifications to the oil circuitry, added lubrication features, special high gear alterations, specialty components and care. Some models not for street use. Certain models available with automatic features including electronic control, but basic models are manual control only. Shift pattern will vary according to model. Check listing for your preference.


Pro Series Transmissions

Developed for the advent of delay boxes. Provides full manual control only and Tranz Brake. No automatic features. Not for street use. Some models available in stock and reverse shift patterns. The Pro Series Transmissions are designed mainly for the pro light racer and offers better reaction times.



Transmission Charts

American Motors 727,904,998,999
Chrysler 727,904,998,999 "

Torque Converters



Turbo Action started manufacturing performance converters in 1976. Chrysler Corporation tested several Turbo Action models and added those models to their performance catalog. Our converters over the past thirty years have expanded with progressive changes for performance and horsepower advancements in order to accommodate the needs of Chrysler, GM and Ford applications.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
All converters installed into vehicles with mid-engine plates which measure up to 1/8" (0.125) will use our standard height converter. If over 1/8" (0.125), will require special order advising the thickness of mid-engine plate. Please add an E to the end of Part Number to designate converter needs to be built a special height and specify mid-plate thickness.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chrysler 1971-Up model converters require engine balance on the converter. Add the appropriate Letter Code to the end of the Part Number.
A=383,400,440 B=360 C=340
D=1970-72 440-6 & 440-4 HP E=360 Magnum
17509J
(Discontinued)
9" & Special Order

17509J

23210
7" Special Order








•Hemi 11"
•Street "S-800" Series 10" & 11"
•Pro Series 10"
•Pro Series 10" Steel Stator
•Pro Series 8"
•Pro Series 8" Steel Stator
•Stall Speed Applications 10" & 11"
•Stall Speed Applications 8"
•Converter Tech Talk




11" Hemi Style
Converter reconditioned from stock. Incorporates slightly more stall speed than the stock 11" Hemi converter. Features include furnace brazed pump and turbine, 4130 chrome moly steel pump drive, 4130 chrome moly steel turbine hub and 7/16" size bolt pads. Not designed to be used if the vehicle is activating nitrous and/or transmission brake, drag strip competition or mud bogging. Order Part #17100SFI Flexplate and #17106 Converter Bolts which will fit 6-bolt crank. Order #17103SFI and converter bolts # 17106 if you have a 8-bolt crank.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Many 1971-Up engines require external engine balance. Therefore, give year and cubic inch so that converter can be balanced for specific engine.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: Part #17501 fits 1967-92 Non Lock-up Torqueflite 727 transmissions.
17501
11" Hemi Style
 
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Kaitsu

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I don´t mind if it needs a total overhaul, its coming for my mechanics degree as a student show of know-how so I don´t mind a little dirt under fingernails, as long as it is a lock-up and for small block V8s.
 

greymouser7

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it probably isn't a lock up as it was for an E-58 packaged Volare Road runner that had a 360 & a 340 camshaft in it- designed for our cars, but I am thinking that most of the Chrysler performance automatics didn't come with lock-up

someone please clear that up
 

Kaitsu

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I understood that they changed lock-up for 1978 as a standrad, (and then there were the trailer, police and taxi packages that didn´t have lockup) because of emissions and improved mileage.

I started to work on my engine today and started wondering. The block and the cylinder heads are from 1975. I now ordered wiring harness with ESA, EGR, O2 and all of that mileage and emission thingys, just to find out that they were introduced just few years after manufacturing of my block. Is it still the same block with same holes and threads to install all the stuff in it?

I now got everything back from the machining shop. The block is bored to final oversize (.030) and we kept it otherwise original, just replaced the cam (Melling MTD-1) and replaced the OEM timing chain with dual O-ring one.
On the cylinder heads, I kept that just as OEM as could have, only replaced valve springs and spring plates with heavy duty ones. Everything inside the block is now brand new except for the old crankshaft and connecting rods.
I decided to use the old intake manifold from my current in-use 318 since it has the original cast- iron intake manifold instead buying a new M1 dual plane from MoPar performance.
For exhaust manifold, I´m going for Dorman cast iron ones, at least it gives me the possibility to add the sensor that sniffs the exhaust gases for emissions as well as install warm intake air channel.

For carb, Im going for Carter thermoquad insted of my random Holley to be sure it matches the ESA system.
 
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Kaitsu

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I assembled the pistons into the crankshaft by now and I ran into a problem when it comes to balancing of the crank: how does one know what type of harmonic balancer and torque converter are required for crankshaft? All I could find in manual are that they are to be checked from parts numbers but... online stores were full of non- lockup converters for 360 and some 318/360 balancers. However, I bet that 318 and 360 didn´t share the balancer since 318 is fully counter- weighted and 360 is fully externally- balanced, by the info on shop manual, that is.
 

Kaitsu

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I browsed for info about 727 trannies in F-bodies and found out they were actually available with 727. Can anyone clarify me if someone has an already shortened driveshaft or were you required to shorten your original shaft?

http://www.allpar.com/model/aspen.html

Ill be adding first photos of my car today, youll see what´s this all about when I come here asking stuff!
 
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Kaitsu

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How much would you guys think is a mono AM/FM radio worth if it has been completely gone through and is in great shape? I got the first radio I bought from the shop yesterday and I don´t need it anymore since I got the C-cassette radio on my own car? A friend told me they are rare to find in this part of the world since the dealer usually removed the radio and sold the cars WO any kind of OEM radios. I told him I could swap em for the torsion bars he claims to be from a police Aspen, but I doubt it as no police were using American cars here at any time: what is the difference between the stock and HD/police torsion bars?
 

Blackbirdsrt78

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How much would you guys think is a mono AM/FM radio worth if it has been completely gone through and is in great shape? I got the first radio I bought from the shop yesterday and I don´t need it anymore since I got the C-cassette radio on my own car? A friend told me they are rare to find in this part of the world since the dealer usually removed the radio and sold the cars WO any kind of OEM radios. I told him I could swap em for the torsion bars he claims to be from a police Aspen, but I doubt it as no police were using American cars here at any time: what is the difference between the stock and HD/police torsion bars?

The diameter of the bar.
 

greymouser7

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I browsed for info about 727 trannies in F-bodies and found out they were actually available with 727.


that's what I told you. i am gonna give you the tail shaft of the 727 that came out of my volare road runner, which i think will matche-up with the length of your drive shaft, i just don't know that between the two small block 727's i have, that i can make a good one. I could call, check out, and drive down and pick this up for you if you want:

BRAND NEW SBM TORqUE CONVERTER FOR 727 TORGUE FLITE - $80 (HIGH SPRINGS) http://gainesville.craigslist.org/pts/4817966660.html

BRAND NEW JUST SITTING ON SHELVE COLLECTING DUST 13'' WEIGHTED SMALL BLOCK MOPAR TORGUE CONVERTER. BIG SPLINE IS 27 AND SMALL SPLINE IS 24 3000-3500 STALL SPEED BALANCED WEIGHTED I JUST ORDERED THE WRONG STALL SPEED IT COST ME ALMOST 300.00 MY LOSS YOUR GAIN

email or phone: PHIL phone: ☎ 352-258-9851 email: qb2h3-4817966660@sale.craigslist.org
 
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greymouser7

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if you have the money you might be able to get Rich aka Blackbirdsrt78 to pick up this:

dodge 727 small block bolt on trans - $250 (hiram ga) http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/4861314031.html

Selling a dodge small block 727 auto trans with bolt on yoke 36000 miles on trans from small motor home clean fluid have other mopar parts e mail me for some pics thanks

preferred contact method: phone, text, or email
contact name: bryan
contact by phone: ☎ 7703551680
reply by email:
n9vbw-4861314031@sale.craigslist.org
 

Kaitsu

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Hmm, I´d be very interested on the tailshaft. However, that Gainesville friend has a non- lockup tranny, and I don´t know about the motor home transmission which ones that. Is motor home tranny the same they used in passenger cars?
 

greymouser7

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You could swap tailshafts with the motor home- usually later, heavy model mopars with the 727 had lock ups-perhaps the motorhome did as well

what is your budget? I am throwing you low budget offerings. i feel that if you are being picky that you might not be too serious or your budget is low like many of our budgets are now. it's not a problem either way, but it's a waste of time helping you in the wrong direction- don't worry either, i am not upset, i would just rather be more affective at helping you.

why are you hung up on a lock up torque converter with a 727?

If you want non-performance lock up, then get a 904. If you want strength for performance, get the 727. the 727 takes more ( a very little) horse power to operate than a 904. If you are just building a moderate daily driver, the 904 can be made strong, is more abundant, cheaper...

there is an A999 and A998 later model 904 that automatic guys highly seek after- ask others about those

the tailshaft of the 727 is yours when you want it
 

greymouser7

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Sorry to barge in on this thread, but I wanted to ask about the A518. The A518 is basically a TF727 with an overdrive and a lock-up torque convertor, correct? Being TF727 based, it has the 2.45 first gear, as do all models of the TF727. The way to get around that is to go with a lower rear end gear, isn't it? As in if the car originally had, lets say, a 2.94 rear end gear, go to a 3.23 or a 3.55 rear end gear. With the overdrive gear in the A518, those rear end ratios are liveable on the highway, are they not? A 3.55 becomes a 2.63 in overdrive, and 3.23 becomes a 2.39 in overdrive, both considerably better than the 2.94 in 3rd on a TF999/998. Low gear overall works out to be 7.91 with the 3.23, and 8.69 with the 3.55 using an A518. The TF999/998 with a 2.94 rear end gear ends up with an overall low gear of 8.05-8.06. You should be able to pick up both low end acceleration and a lower rpm level with the A518 with the 3.55 rear end and very marginally (perhaps even un-noticeably) less low end performance with the 3.23/A518 than the A999/A998 and a 2.94 rear end gear. There will still be more losses and weight with the A518, but there isn't much you can do about that, unless you want to look at some serious (read: expensive) transmission work. Of course, it will still require a shortened drive shaft, and working out the linkages -Kostas

A518 = A727 + an overdrive, nothing more. Not only is there more parasitic drag than the A9xx transmission series, but they don't have the low first gear of the A99x used in most of the M/J-body cars so they could get away with such pathetically-high gear ratios and still be livable. The A998/999 has a low ratio of 2.74, whereas all A904/727 transmissions have a low of only 2.45. So, if you replace an A999 with an A727 and have 2.26:1 rear end, it's like you just put 1.99:1 axle gears in the car as far as first gear is concerned. It'll be the same performance in 2nd as always, but it'll take longer to get there while the engine tries to climb over that ratio. On the flip side of this, if you replace an A904/A727 with the lower-gearset A99x, you suddenly just picked up a bunch of first gear acceleration. In a car that has 2.94 axle gears it's like installing 3.30:1 axle gears--but again the difference is only in first; your second- and third-gear acceleration would not change. To keep the gearing advantage, you have to stick with the A500, which is unfortunate because as far as I know, it's only available as a lockup transmission and Chrysler lockup converters are, well, not particularly reliable with any kind of power.

I'm sure you guys both realize all this, but I'm posting it as general information so that folks unfamiliar with this arrangement (or the importance of gearing overall) might learn something. It never ceases to amaze me how guys will drop in a $4,000 crate motor and complain that the car suddenly isn't running 12s, only to be told they never touched the rear axle gears. Fuel economy is a beautiful thing, but I think a lot of board members would be shocked at how quickly their car would accelerate with nothing more than a swap to even a mild ratio like a 3.23 or 3.55 out back, especially if they've got the low-first transmission.
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